240ZX

Chris, you seem to be putting together all the right pieces for the Darwin Award! :stupid:

Jody, Urethane bushings are certainly the way to go as they will likely never have to be changed ever again! One misconception is that they make for a harsher ride....they do not!!! Harsher suspension come from higher rate springs, stiffer dampers, low profile tire, and such....not from the bushings. The urethane bushing will tighten up unwanted movement of components but do nothing to incur a harsh ride...it's an old wives-tale. They do transfer a little more road noise however. When installing the urethane bushings, be sure to use the supplied urethane lube....otherwise you will wind up with a squeeky Z.

Bill, you morbid creature you! Stop putting those evil pictures up, they're going to make me have bad dreams!!! :nervous:

Great info Chino! Never heard of those products before. I was going to suggest mineral oil. If you let it site for a bit it usually will loosen the overspray. As Chino says....always test the fluids you intend to use on a small out of the way spot to see if it may gamage the finish.

Negative on that Bill! The NA intake will bolt right up to the EFI head. You may notice little cut-outs on the intake ports for injector clearance, but the int/exh gasket will cover them up. Note: Be sure to use a really good gasket.

Just a though! If the retaining pin is as frozen-in-place as mentioned, it's likely the spindle itself will be tough to get out as well....so, you might consider drilling out the pin. If you do, be careful not to F-up the casting. Once it's out of the way, you can tackle the fun job of removing the spindle. Purchase new spindles and retaining pins.

I believe the lever next to the choke is a throttle positioner....kind of like a manually operated cruise control. Hate to tell you but, the first two pics (white Z) is not a Scarab......where's the V8???

Here's mine......HLS3002126 Mfg. date 3/70 Pretty low s/n eeh!? OK, 26th has number 26 & 27....now those are really low s/n!!!

Rob, Welcome to the site! Correct me if I'm wrong but, are the wheels you are talking about the same as the wheels that were put on the Z early cars by the dealerships only in 14"? If so, you may want to look through the members gallery for examples. I haven't seen any in 15"x 7", only 14"s. With the 15"s, to maintain the desired tire diameter, you would likely use a lower profile tire. But take a look through the gallery.

I'll agree that the stut tower braces certainly help, which I have installed as well but, I added a SCCA approved rollbar (Autopower) and it also decreased the flex in the rear of the chassis beyond what the stut tower braces added.

I believe it will come out without disassembly of the U-joint. Even if the U-joint won't (and I think it will) pass through the firewall, the lower half is splined to the upper half and will slide out as you remove the steering wheel colum. Any help?

All other things considered......if you plan on speeds over 100 mph (especially 170 mph) you had better do your research on an aero package for your Z. In stock body trim, the Z becomes very unstable as the car attempts to fly...actually it just becomes very light. You may also consider talking to some racers, with experience at high speeds, and find out what is involved in preparing a Z car for the kind of speeds you want to obtain. One thing for sure...make sure you are running equipment (tires included) that can handle the high speed. We don't want to read about your fatal accident in the papers. And......TAKE IT TO THE TRACK, FOR GOD'S SAKES!!!

It's at the flywheel....151 HP for the 240Z & 170 HP for the 280Z. To date, I don't think any auto manufacture lists RWHP. A trip to a local dyno shop will take care of that issue!

axefreak, Are we scarring you yet? Lots of sound advice from our members....as always! Believe me, and I think others may agree, once it's all said and done and your driving around in your sweet looking Z, you will forget all about how much was spent to get it there. Bottom line is....you REALLY gotta want to do it and then make the sacrifice for the time and effort it will take.

Nice location for the fuel in! Certainly shows some good fabrication skills....just a poor choice in flavor:sick:

That's funny!!! I busted out laughing when I read your post. Crap, I can see it now.....I get pulled over because I look suspicious in my red Z car! Great, one more thing to attract the authorities attention.

I would start by doing research on the entire process of restoration. Wick Hubble (I think thats his name) has a book that will help you get a good idea of whats involved. Once you have a good idea of what is involved you can put together a plan of attack and for sure have a budget. Most guys who have gone through this exercise will tell you....if your estimate is let's say $10K, double it!!! This is not a cheep adventure when done well. As mentioned previously, start with the chassis......body work/paint, suspension, brakes, fuel system, electrical, drive train, etc, etc. The interior can be done last, as all other steps will cause alot of dust dirt and debris that will F up the new interior stuff. Regarding the plan of attack, you may also want to consider any upgrades you may want to do....basically, how do you plan to use your Z! One thing for sure is, stay focused on the end result and don't get frustrated. If you do, walk away. No sense in jury rigging or short cutting. Hope this helps you out a little and good hunting...I mean good luck! And of course, help is always a keyboard away.

Have you called MSA with your questions? I would think they might know!

Do you own a factory shop manual? If not, invest in one you won't regret it!

The Z and the wheels look great! Now don't take this personally, but man you have alot of space between the tires and fender well openings. Of course this is just my opinion, but if your Z was lowered at least and inch it would look closer to awsome! Take a look at my photo gallery and you will understand my point of view.

I agree with Bart....go to a real driveline shop. Any reputable driveline shop will have no problems repairing your driveshaft. Shoot, for less than the price they quoted you, I had a complete new driveshaft made up...better balanced and stronger that the stock unit. Again, find a good shop. In the Las Vegas area I would think this would be no problem, especially with all the off-road events that take place there! Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I would think your best bet would be to go to a Triumph site and ask these questions! The installation of coilovers is pretty generic however, the positioning of the threaded sleeve on the strut tube is likely different than what we use on the Z's....and depending on wether or not the strut tube has been sectioned, sleeve positioning will vary.