Jayru

Ok, so i'm driving yesterday and the car stalls out. My sender doesn't work, so i think i'm out of gass. I pop the hood and the filters bone dry. Fill it up with some gass (2-3 gal) and still nothing. So i disconect the hose from the fuel line and stick it in the gas can, bam, starts right up. So i know what Carl will say, clogged lines/rust in the tank. Nope! I drop the tank today and their is No Rust inside the thing, just a small amount of what looks like setiment(SP?),dirt, ect. I blow air through the lines and their clean as a wissle. So what the hell is going on here? Could it be the mistery fuel hose air sucking thing as seen here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16353 The only thing odd i see is the PO seems to have eliminated GF-21 on the diagram below. He disconected the hose and filled the tank nipple with some type of resin. Could that be a problem? All the other vent hoses are attached. The car had about 5 gal of gas in it when i drained it. 240z gas tank.bmp

They never shipped the package :mad: So now i have to wait another few days to get it. This has held up my whole suspension upgrade for 2+weeks

I just called them myself, i had forgotten you posted their number. They are looking into it and calling me back. Thanks

Another 6 days and no bushings :mad: Turns out the tracking # they gave me wasn't even for my item. I sent another email today. Man this sucks!

Anyone have experience with this kit offered by MSA? http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC08 Since adding new 15x7 Rewinds, my car now tracks the road while driving. And since i plan on using the 1" Tokico springs soon, the problem will only get worse. Since z's have no camber ajustment i need something, But I don't want solid ajust bushings because this is a street car, so Arizona Z arms are out as well (To expensive also). I'd rather not hack up the strut towers either with weld in plates. Let me know if their's an easier way. Thanks, Jay

Sticking MC plunger?

Problem fixed! I ajusted and balanced the carbs per the service manual's instructions (What a pain in the arse to get right, it took me an hour of fiddeling to get them as close to perfect as i could). She idles at ~800 now with crisp throttle response, no popping or backfiring whatsoever. Still a little rich at idle though. I followed the manual to a tee and she seems to be spot on (raise the chamber 1/32" and the idle stays the same), So i can't figure why it's still a little rich at idle. Maybe i'm looking for Fuel injection perfection out of a 33 year old carburator :stupid: A side benifit is the car feels much stronger under power now. Very happy! Thanks for the help.

The car does run what seems/smells to be rich at idle, but the plugs looked good when pulled. How should i ajust the mixture, is their a specific way to do it (withought a wideband, ect)? It does ever so slightly pop on decell, i mean only every once and a while. So is it the carbs? The valvetrain dosen't make any noise.

I definately love the zx ignition. Before, my car sputtered/broke up above 4k and really felt poor, now it's crisp and clear to 6k The idle has setteled around 900rpm, it only idled at 550 the first time i drove her (Weird), But is holding rock steady at 900 now. I'll try and do a compression test today. My oil pressure seems to be on par with all the other z's i read about on the net. At idle it's barely off the low side of the gauge, as soon as you start rolling it gets to and stays at about half way on the gauge. I let it idle yesterday for about 15 minutes and it's doing it much less frequently now, but seems to have the same pop/intake backfire with a quick inital blip of the throttle, then it goes away (super quick) and revs freely. What do you think?

That's what it's like. So if that's it, what causes/how do i fix the problem?

I'm changing the plugs/wires today (although they look good). It almost sounds like a hiccup from the rear carb/intake, like it's firing in the intake? It doesn't seem to really even affect the engine rpm. Is that possible?

I have them and think they look like crap on the car (Their big and chrome) I prefer the wheels without'em. Maybe if they were gunmetal.

15x7 with 225 50's. I have plenty of room and could have went 245's. The 225's lean in a little because of the rim width, 245's would have sat more flush on the lip. I'm very happy though.

Enjoy! You know i'm happy. What do you guys think?

Nobody? C'mon help me out

Hi guys, So i swapped my old points distrubtor today for an electronic 280z one (I am very impressed) and i thought it might aleviate this problem i'm having with an intermittent popping sound when the car is idling, but it's still there. The car idles at 550 rpm beautifully, then every once in a while you get this popping sound (like a hickup) somewhere within the intake, then it goes back to normal idle, until it happens again ~30 sec later. This repeats all the time while the car is idling. It in no way affects preformance, on the gas, (The car pulls extremely cleanly and quickly to 6K, with the new electronic dist i might add) Any ideas?

Thanks. Well after i sent the fourth email this morning, i finally got a response with a tracking #. It's so hard to deal with companies over the net when there's no line of communication. I miss the days when you did stuff like this face to face. Jay

Has anyone recieved thrir bushing kit yet? It's been 8 days since auction close, i paid instantly, and all i have to show for it is 3 un-answered emails. I'm getting nervous. Anyone have a phone # for this place?

Mike is right. I want to harm the paint (on the rubber molding only). If prep-sol doesn't hurt paint, how can it help to remove paint from the rubber molding.

Thinner will spider crack plastic lenses in my opinion. Funny this thread got started today, i was wondering the same thing but on a different part. My car was painted in the late 80's by the original owner. The paint must have been a quality job because it still shines like new after almost 20 years. Anyway, i wish i could speak as highly for their masking job. Almost all my rubber trim around the winshield, 1/4 windows, and hach have some overspray on them (very little by the edges/corners, like the tape leaked). The paint is very brittle so it scratches off fairly easy with a razor blade, but this scratches up the rubber slightly leaving behind marks. Is their an easier way? It's so close to the body i'm afraid to use a thinner for fear it would do something to the paint on the body or eat the rubber. Any ideas?

I don't believe the bottom part moves. It's the fixed base that screws into the timing chain case. Either way i'll wait to get the gaskets. I didn't know if they were available from local parts stores, that'll work. Hope they have them in stock tomorrow. Thanks

Like the title states, is this gasket still available. Can it be had by itself? Is silicone a suitable replacement for the gasket? I was swaping to my electronic dist today and the gasket didn't remain in one piece.