Zak's Z

I bought a complete lower front valance from a guy in texas and I think all 3 pieces with shipping cost me about $100.00 I also got from another guy both bumpers and another corner and some odds and ends for about $200.00. All of it was, imho, in great shape. A little surface rust on the back corner came right off with a brush. I bought a parts car up here in Canada for $500.00. The interior was great and I got an early crack free dash (for sale right now). BUT..the body was completely rusted from the waist down. Rusted into one solid piece. I figure that dash I got will be worth more than I paid, let alone the rest of the interior, seats and odds and ends.

Please take some pics if you can. Some of the cleanest parts I've bought have been from guys in Texas who told me they were rusty. Everything rusts up here, so my standards are a little lower!

I was in walmart and I thought I'd look in the toy section at cars, maybe I'll find a Z. I found a car by Jada Toys, its about 3/4" longer than a hot wheels and they package them as the "for sale" line of cars. The paint job isnt that great but it has the badging in the right areas, and it has a 'for sale' sign in the front window.

Thanks Ron. I took all the paint off yer hood today, cleaned it up and primed it. One step closer... Zak

Does anyone know what size those 4 bolts are that bolt the hood to the hood hinges? Im ready to put the hood on and it seems I've lost a baggie or two of bolts in the sea of parts I have in the basement. Thanks guys,

hahaha. I dont want to stop the trend though...because it appears EVERY po has been a dumbass! I shouldnt fill in the holes, but I'll have to use that hatch if I cant find a replacement in the next few days.

Heres my dilemma: I have a '72 Im refreshing and a late hatch and glass. I found a '71 for parts and have a very good condition 71 hatch with vents and early glass. My 72 hatch is all banged up. It makes sense for me to use the better hatch. Should I have the body shop fill in the vents, and use the later glass to give it that '72 look, or leave the vents and use early glass but be incorrect in mixing my earlies and lates. Just trying to stir some dialogue here on this and get some opinions..

Ron, My bumpers won't fit in my oven. I wonder if the pizza-pizza will let me use their oven to cook some newly chromed bumpers! That stuff sounds an awful lot cheaper than re-chroming. If you use it, put up a post and let us know how it goes. Sounds neat. Zak

I just finished shooting the POR-15 tie-coat primer in the engine bay and inner fenders and I thought it turned out pretty good. I have put a ton of time into this and I'm soooo close to getting it to the body shop I can taste it. I'll tell you guys my process in case anyone wants to pipe in with some comments - more than appreciated. I sandblasted earlier, got all the paint off with a wire wheel, then used metal-ready on it. I put por-15 in the engine bay, and inner fenders (over a period of a year). Then I cut out some metal at the front the po put in for the huge one piece bumper/spoiler. So now its close to looking original. I used marine-clean the other day, then hosed it all off. I'm sure I got it all off but in a few places it left a white dusty-coating. I took a brush to it and got all that off, then wiped/blew it all down then I shot the tie-coat with the hvlp gun I got. It worked great, and I didnt need to thin it out. I think it shot too fast, as its a slight bit rough to the touch, but I'm sure the body shop will prime over this with whatever they use. Now all I have to do is put it all back together and send it off. I also cut out the patches the po put in the rear to cover the bumper slots on the side.

wow...i should order a few of those and put them up as vintage badges to pay for my bodywork!

I saw that car in person when I went to look at a door troubledz had at his shop. The body looks excellent. He also documented the whole restoration, have a look from the ebay link. I forget where he said the seats came from, an old Porsche maybe? I think its worth at least what its going for on ebay right now, and considering its location it may be the only choice around for a totally clean Z. I hope he gets top dollar for it.

All points well taken guys. E - Thanks for looking into that. I'll keep at it and slow down a bit to make sure its done right. I went at it again last night...it was looking good but there were a few tiny pinholes in the brass so I brazed more and made a bigger mess. Now when I ground it down I had chunks falling off and little actual metal left to get the braze to stick to. Patience was the lesson last night I think. Zak

Good point Ron. I did see a few tiny tiny pinholes left in a few spots after I finished. Ill make sure I get over everything properly before I bring it in. Im on a roll here so I'm getting impatient I think. Thanks guys.

Thanks Gary. Since I have already used brass...what shape am in? Is it possible to get away with what I've done? Im only looking for some opinions cuz the guy at work here said I'm definetly screwed, and neighbor said it was ok and suggested it in the first place. Any special considerations for prep on this...would por-15 on the brass be a good idea?

On the deck lid there was a large hole...we cut out a piece of sheetmetal, tacked it in then made a bead all around and ground it flush. The rear outside quarters also had a piece cut out then new sheetmetal tacked in then filled and ground down. The 'expert' at work says brass will oxidize even under the paint through weather change or exposure to rain over time. He says theres nothing you can do to stop it. Ive searched the internet and found a few references to putting brass into metal and a few who say its not the preferred method but so far nothing says why.

I just happen to have that book here...pg 43. he says he puts brass into the floor when brazing. Hmmm.

Heres the story... I got all the paint off the car finally and theres a few spots that were rusted. My neighbor, whos been helping me the whole time confidently says we should braze the rust spots to save some body shop time, fill it in with metal instead of filler,etc. So I watch him do it, he shows me how to do it and I think all is well. I bring in some photos to work to show a guy who I know restores old 40's Willys to showroom condition. He laughs and says Im screwed cuz the brass will oxidize and bubble within a year and then eventually fall out. He goes on to explain the whole process. The spots Ive done so far are rear deck lid the rear corners above the deck lid, one spot on a door, a few little spots under the rear doglegs, and one spot on door frame near the firewall. I had no idea that this was a bad thing because my neighbor has seemed very knowledgeable so far. If Im screwed what do I do short of cutting out the brass to save myself here? Thanks guys.

Mike, I had an hour to kill at work this morning, and I never heard of Second Life. So I went there and logged in and dl'd their software. I went to the Australian world and walked around for a bit. Pretty neat environment. I looked for people on the map and most of them were in one spot...so I went there and sure enough it was the 'free sex area'. I only saw one virtual house with a car in it, but it looked pretty basic. I assume you cant drive them and they're just models.

I read an article once that talked about the economics of classic car values. They made a (i think) legitimate point by saying that the people currently who have money to invest in classic cars are the baby-boomer population. When they were young, the cars they dreamed about having are now the big money classics because they drive the market in a way by being able to afford them and desire them. That group is also the largest segment of the population and it will be interesting to see what happens in 30 years. In the 80's when I was a teen I cant recall many cars of that generation that I really desired. The coolest cars I can remember were the Lamborghini Countach and Don Johnsons Ferrari Testarosa, but I dont think those count because they were exotics. So when the next generation, which is significantly smaller, is old enough to have the disposable income to invest in a classic car I think it will be interesting to see what's popular and drives the market. I sure hope its not the Fiero, Turbo Firefly, Probe, Dodge Shelby or Honda CRX.

I went last year and brought my son. Met a few club members and ate some food. We got there a bit late (traffic was brutal) but there was still a good turnout for the S30's. Hopefully I'll be able to drive mine there next year.

Hey welcome. Again with the advice....I settled with a local car that looked pretty good other than rusty floors...well damn. The floors and rails and rockers had to be done, that set me back $1200 just for parts...then since the floors were gone, the brake lines were shot. etc. etc. I wish I had taken the time and made the drive to look at other cars. It would have saved me money. Every minute you spend looking for the right car will be more cash AND time available for you to work on the car. Now I have new metal, but the time and money it took to get there I would have been better off if I kept looking. Just my 2 cents and good luck with the hunt. Keep us posted on what you find!

I just bought and sold a 2000 BMW Z3. Try the bimmer forums (bimmerforums.com) (bimmerfest.com). I'm sure you'll find out about all the typical problems and be able to get help with specifics from the guys there. Although....some people here can probably be more helpful. Please tell us you're not going to give up the Z after you get the Bimmer!

Hey, I live by Wonderland just north of the city. Ihave a '72 also, but I'm restoring it so I havn't driven it yet. My car needed new floor pans and rails also, so I understand what youre going through. Im familiar with all the parts, but I'm not a mechanic. I know our best Datsun shop and all the guys there if that helps. Why dont you tell me what youre looking with help for exactly and I'll and be of some use. Send me a PM if you like, or just post here. Zak

The center console and steering wheel appear to be later than '70. It looks like theres no radio either. Does anyone know this car or the VIN for it? Isn't there supposed to be a little plate on the console showing its from the program? It does look like its in excellent shape either way. Im also no expert in how the cars were refreshed in the program. zak

I'd drive it for the first time!