nismospek

Can you throw undercoating over the Tie Coat primer? I would really like the undercarriage to be black.

Thanks for the info. I probably don't want to take the risk that the undercoating would start to flake off. I think I am going to just por or rust bullet the metal on the parts that can't be seen. I don't know what to do for the undercarriage and interior though. How well does POR's self etching primer work?

I am planning on bringing my 240z to a shell and then blasting it down to bare metal. I was wondering what to do with underneath the body, inside fender area, and frame rails. I have seen many people that use POR or just undercoating such as gator coating. My question is can you coat the car with POR and then shoot undercoating over it or should you just use one or other other? If you undercoat, do you need to POR the interior or is respraying with paint sufficient? I tried searching, but most just showed restorations just using one or the other.

there is a nice 240z in san antonio craigslist for 4500. really prestine by the looks of it. there is also a good looking 280z for 2500.

would spraying battery acid cleaner help on the sockets to get rid of the corrosion? or should i get some electrical cleaner. If the switch was malfunctioning would it be capable of causing the problem on its self?

so on the passenger side harness i should be looking for white/red and white/black wires? Is it normal for one of the brake switch wires to spark when it touched metal?

How do i know which is the rear brake light circuit? any pictures of description of the color wires. When i lay off the brakes the fuse cools down. I accidentally touched some metal with one of the wires that goes to the brake switch and it sparked. Not sure if that is normal. i removed the bulbs in the rear and I didn't see any corrosion.

Well i disconnected the connector with the green with white strip connector. car wouldn't start. pressed brake pedal fuse still got hot. If i was to get a new msa type fuse box and the headlight wireing harness would that solve my problem?? I don't have the mechanical capability to take the whole dash apart to find the wire.

Should i be looking for an exposed wire, or burnt wire??

yah, thats what was hot. I would put the fuse in and when i held down the brake pedal the switch would get hot.

any pictures of the area that you are talking about?

i touched the round cylinder relay thats by the brakes and that gets pretty warm too. Is it possible that it went wrong? I have a 72 240z. the donor car is a 74 260z.

Just remembered i have a friend with a junk 260z that should still have a fuse box. Can i replace that one for my 240z fuse box?

tried the soldering thing, i suck at soldering but was able to solder the small round part to the larger square part, still heats up really fast. I removed my fuse box to take pictures. Ill try uploading them today. The other problem is I made the wife a promise i wouldn't spend any more money on this car for the rest of the year. It is really disappointing that after spending so much to get all the mechanical things in order the wireing goes bad.

Mine actually heated up it melted the plastic. I will try to clean out the back to see if maybe that helps. Any other ideas of what it might be?

Well I finally got my car on the road and got it inspected yesterday. I my way back i stopped by whataburger and smoke started coming from my fuse box. I found out that the right prong on the stop light had started to melt. Today i went and removed a old stereo that didn't work and the associated wires. I also removed a hitch wireing harness that had been attached to the rear brake lights. I made sure that what ever was grounded stayed that way. Went through the fuse box to make sure the right fuses where in the right place. Once i add a fuse it still continues to heat when ever i press the brake pedal. It heats up pretty fast too about 5-10 seconds.

oops, mine is associated with the stop light and not the park tail light. Going to start new thread so i don't jack this one.

I'm having the same problem, except mine actually got so hot it started to burn my fuse box. Anyone have any pics of the TS housing so that i can check for corrosion??

my carbs would spit from my fuel mixture being too lean.

well my radio and heater don't work as of the moment so i think i'm going to stick to the normal seat belt. i will most likely only be driving to and from work 5 miles each way at least twice a week.

My car is in the shop getting a new rear differential mount installed. Ive only driven it twice and i really didn't know how to put the two pieces together. (i had the shoulder looped with the lap going through the loop. I was pretty sure it wasn't meant to go that way)

does it attach to the directly to the metal portion of the shoulder belt? This is for a 4/72 240z

Well i don't mean to sound too dumb but I was wondering how the two seperate pieces of the seat belt come together. If someone could post a picture i would gladly appreciate it.

Would the 180 thermostat be the reason for the hotter reading?