ajmcforester

Your looking at car that are 35-40 years old. Are you going to have problems? Yes, the whole car wasn't designed to last this long. I might steer you away if you can't get a ride now and again to work when you need it. Also the first year you have it expect it to brake down they always seem to have something that needs working out when you first get the car. I'd tell you what to look for but just search this site it has been beaten like a dead horse. Look for what you are willing to have, don't get a rusty car because that's all you can find, and expect you might need to fly out to see a car don't trust a picture or their word. Things that you might like, good on gas my 72 got 43mpg cross country. I find the SU carbs eat a lot of gas starting, so if you do a lot of little stops you might want fuel injection. Easy to work on, especially the early ones, very simple design and well thought out car. Great highway and turning car. I'm 6'4" most cars I'm only good for 200 between brakes, the Z I go tank to tank, over 400miles. Looks good. Strong engine. These car were very reliable for their day, just remember that was 35 years a go. Neutral things about the car you need to work on it, it is not a90's car, twice a year you need a whole day to tune it up. You will get good at lashing and check valve clearance they need it every year, the point need to be cleaned four times a year if driving it every day, points should be taken off and check twice a year and replace once a year with daily driving. Regulator should be checked every year and adjusted, you need to add lead substitute to the fuel, keep away from hi ethanol fuels or convert all rubber fuel hoses to handle the ethanol. Just be glad it's not methanol that stuff is nasty. Their is more but I want to give you a start on what to expect.

I could help you find info but who, what level of government, what do you want to know your leaving us with little direction of what your looking for? I could Barry you in federal law, AZ is very lax compared to some other states like NJ. Is the a Phoenix law? It's hard to give you help with such a vague question.

Rust is bad they are reliable once you workout bugs that old car get

This is a series II 71. I owned a early 72 and now have a 71. Locking gas door, metal fan (who would convert from plastic), and fuel hose running to that funny fuel thing on the left firewall, are things you don't find on 72s. Now it might be titled a 72 I have seen that before. I see several things that hint the drives side was damaged. The hood bends up in the center left side, the left door sits higher in rear in relation to the rear fender, these are two things that are rare to see from factory ushaly the door will sit at or a little below, and gravety would work the door down. The exhaust looks new and is aftermarket with headers. The rear bumper side peice don't line up with the center (factory was pretty good with this from what I've seen). The rear hatch seems to be ever so slightly off to the right and looks like the hatch was pushed into the right fender. It also has a 73 or later brake master the caps hint at that. A 3 panel hit on just about any car will total it out. If I was to get this car I'd check how true the body is it might not drive straight at higher speeds or even become unstable. I think you can have a fun car that can last a long time, or it might make a great parts car if it is crooked or to transfer over to a good shell.

The matter is how well it was repaired and documented the Cuda would have all the repair documented to the T. Damage can be forgiven for the most part with proper repair and documentation of the repair. I like the car from what I can see I'd conciser if it was in my area to take a look at it. If the price was on the higher end I'd want to take it to a shop and measure the whole car and see if it was true and the underside damage. The shop would be of my choice, and depending the location hit I might even request the removal of a panel to check; leave no guess on the damage a bad repair can cost your life, or a bad investment. If the price was low enough I might buy it then check to see how true it was with the idea that if it was to bad I could part it out.

The four letter R word is never good, but that might be a fun car to restore.

A car like that needs documentation to be worth a lot. People are looking for well documented cars to show in the preservation class, that has become very popular, and about time if you ask me. This car lacks paperwork from what I see, in fact the paperwork it has devalues the car, a salvage title. Now knowing it was in a accident will devalue a car but not knowing what happened, and no documentation on how it was repaired is even worse. However the car looks to be a clean example with low millage, if the damage was repaired well the car might sell for over 10,000 and would be surprised if over 20,000 I'm thinking about 12,000

No more wiping babies rear ends that would be nice:stupid:

I loved my Colorado Customs I had on my last Z.

I guess to match the exhaust you will need billet rims, looks very nice

I grew up in Arvada, that is a good one also

260Z with rust at 9500 pass it up you will find better, even if it was a 240Z I'd say skip it. That rust repair would make the car almost 15,000 when done and that's if everything else was good.

That would be a little bit over, with good traffic. I worked in Steamboat Springs for a summer & fall, to bad he don't live in Ft Collins their are several better twisty road in that direction

Vernal is farther than 5 hours. I wish the Z mechanic that was in the Denver metro area was still around I would send you to him in a hart beet. He would complain and give you some lip from time to time but his work was good. I used to work in the area your son lives the good shops in that area are not cheap. A lot of my clients used Downing Street Garage (720) 259-9630 401 Downing St, Denver, CO 80218 I looked them up, they might not be cheap but they are good. My Dad likes Kars Incorporated (303) 420-5757 9491 W 44th Ave, #110, Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 They are a little cheaper, the owners are not Nissan Mechanics (Owners are factory trained Corvette specialists), but their staff has grown and they have brought a lot of other specialists in so they might be good also. For my Nissan/Datsuns I owned I only took them in twice (one to learn how to tune SU carbs, the other time was to repair a broken valve)

If your .1mm off on the needles you will have a hell of a time getting the carbs to balance. to adjust the floats they need to be in the car. what I made was two tubes with right angles that I screw into the drain it work with them installed I run the car and see what level I get and work until I get the proper height. I made a mark after I did it the first time so I know how high it needs to be

A medium to dark gray with what they call a velvet texture

It's funny I've done some work outside of my field it wasn't bad and I didn't mind it at the time but I would have gone nuts if that was my career. You have one financial advantage over me with the Z, that is they are more common in your area, which means you are more likely to find them in salvage yards and people with parts in your area. Most of the time I need to order salvage parts or new parts, pay for shipping and all that. Colorado and Arizona was very good for parts it was a lot easier to take care of these cars, but around hear I might as well be driving a one off. While cleaning the carb don't tighten the screws to the float chamber you will need to adjust the float once it's back on the car. Also pull out the manual when reinstalling the needles they need to be as accurate as possible on the height. Don't tighten the screws a whole lot I see this way to much just enough that you see the lock washer become flat.

What area in Denver is he in I grew-up out their and I owned a 84 200sx. If I was still out their I'd take a look I had the 2.2L block which was almost identical to the American 240sx blocks

Look for little to no rust. Rust bad very bad it is the most expensive thing to fix. Don't forget a refrigerator magnet to test the body for filler carefull pay exstra attention to the battery area rear deck lid and rocker pannels

Complaints about what you make or have don't get you far in life. I like my work yet in 2009 Forbes put my profession as the 5th lowest paid job for what you do and need to know. Even some people I supervise make more, you got to love what you do and do it. You find worrying about what you have and have not will make your life suck.

I got a set from him also very happy with it. Now on your rear tube I have a chrome one that I'm selling a set with other chrome parts including the air cleaner if your interested.

Nice one I think I remember when that one was for sale. Vineland, I've found my Z their many times when trying to get lost when I first moved to NJ. I also did a lot of work in the city. I'll keep an eye out for you, and welcome to the site

I would have suggested you take them a part on the car but two things your working out side and you can bring them in and they are easier to learn how to work and are put together off the car. Next time you clean them up try it on the car and see what you think.

I would not worry about the little oil in the carbs, take them off as at the intake, be carefull not to mess with the linkage adjustments it makes it easier to re-tune.

Your method was how I applied this stuff from the hobby store except I used a plastic puddy knife over a razor.