e_racer1999

not yet... i still haven't figured out which class i want to race in... i know, it's just that with the L28 block the bore will be too large for the L24 pistons... anyway, i'm gonna take your advice on the bolts and read up some more in the archives.. thanks! -jason

**also posted in hybridz okay, i'm trying to find a really god combination for a street/autox car. i want decent power, but i don't need buttloads of torque. i have a 1972 240z (all stock) with the E88 head. i have a complete N47 L28 (1979) and i already have some ideas. i wanna know what you think! okay, i'm taking the 5 speed and i'm keeping the R180 (LSD comes later) and putting 4.11 gears in it (good idea?). i plan on getting flattop or slightly domed pistons and using the crank and rods from the L24 (i know you think this is going in the wrong direction, but i want revs!). will the L24 rods be good enough? I also want to know which head i should use (E88 or N47). i know the E88 has better compression, but is limited by the ports/valves. is there a better head that i can get for not a lot of $$? any feedback is greatly appreciated! -jason btw - i plan on running stock SUs for the time being, until i go for a good camshaft (shoud i use L24 or L28 until i get a custom one?) and a good intake system.

ya, i'm gonna use the r200 (3.70) temporarily until i get 4.11 gears for my r180.... unless of course i can afford the gears first!

alright, thanks for the info! this guy on hybridz said that he has an adjustable screw-type PV, and i'm thinking about that later on down the road, but i am definitely going to hollow mine out -jason

hmmm.... thanks for the info.... so if i read that article right, the R180 might just be perfect for me, and hence there was no reason for me to flip out! now i feel dumm.... anyway, thanks! -jason

i was under the impression that all 280zxs had R200s, but then i came across this table: ------------------------------------------------- 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180) 280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180) 280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200) 280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200) 280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200) ------------------------------------------------- ^can this be correct?? i hope not, 'cause i have a 2-seater -jason btw, this table was sourced from http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm , which is an AWESOME resource if you haven't checked it out yet

okay, i have been researching this for a few weeks and i want to know EVERYTHING before i begin. i've searched several forums and have recieved mixed answers. my big question is: if i have a 1972 240 and i am going to do the rear disc swap with the maxima brackets and rotors, calipers, and master cylinder (15/16) from a 1979 280zx, what is the story with the proportioning valve? a few sources say that they have used the 240 one, a few recommend the one from the 280zx, and a few say that you don't need one at all. the reason that the last one makes sense is that the front discs on the 240 are larger diameter than the 280zx ones, and hence the proportioning valve would seem overkill. anyway, if i do bypass the proportioning valve, how do i do it? P.S. sorry about this long azz multi-part question, i just want to know what everone thinks! -jason

z creations has this link: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/rearbrake.htm and i have a link to this guy that has an actual size blueprint (for those of you that have access to a machine shop: http://240z.jeromio.com/reardiscs.html and as for the fact that someone got them from the dealer: i thought they were no longer available?? anyway, hope this 411 helps someone, i have been compiling info for myself to prepare for my conversion. -jason EDIT: update: i just got off the phone with mossy nissan (mossy nissan moves you!) amd their part department said that they can still get the maxima brackets: part# is 44155-04S10. they are $72 each and they can have them in 2-3 days

damn! i'm hoping to get it on a lift to check it out.... i know it might need some fabrication (if it works), i was just hoping someone had precedence....

i have my wrecked 280zx and i'm going to use the sway bar. anyone done this? i don't have access to a lift to try it out, so i'm looking for any recommendations. thanks! -jason

okay, thanks

also, a little update: since the site's been down and the beginning of this post, i adjusted my carbs (not perfect, but MUCH better)

i know.... i'd really hate to burn a valve.. i don't have the tools to get the rest of the stud out of my head. what is an approximate price range i would be looking at to get it done?

i'm gonna pull the plugs right now. also, the exhaust manifold stud at the very rear is busted... would that cause me any drama? edt: plugs look normal.... no oil fouling, gap appears correct, they are a little white, which i believe could be b/c i may be running lean (but they are pretty new plugs...)

ya i voted as well (from the link in zdriver.com). good luck! that spec v has a ton of votes, but with a car like yours true enthusiasts will see the light!

^^ the game that he is speaking of is Sega GT for xbox... it is an awesome game (even though i am very partial to the GT series), but i LOVE the idea of the vintage races...

hahaha! that's great! btw, diggin that awd rb z!

rear view mirror! i only know this b/c i have the same situation as you.... that's really about it! i'm going to try and pilfer the brakes.... the diff works, as well -jason

dead sexy!

thanks for clearing that up. if i DO decide to go fi, i will probably go with a fully customizeable ignition system w/ a custom computer. i.e. it will have to wait. i guess i'm going with the carbs for now!

i can't use the radiator cause a pole backed into the car (it wasn't me!). and as for the fuel tank, i heard that it wouldn't fit w/o major fabrication. yes i plan on keeping the fi, that's why i ask. i really want to do some work on the E88 on my L24 before i swap over the carbs (and i might decide to keep the fi in if i like it)

yes, when i pulled the cables they were clicking and i haven't had time to pull the plugs yet. i will when i get home. i'm figuring i adjusted my rear carb too lean, but that's just a guess

okay, my car's been terribly hard to start recently (72 240z) and i figured it was the carbs (being poorly adjusted). however, this morning (after tampering with my carbs last night) i did some experimenting and i am only running on 4 cylinders (at least when cold) the ones that aren't firing are the #4 and #5 and i'm not sure why. my car's symptoms are, when starting in the morning, it takes a few minutes to get my motor going and when it does it idles very rough around 200 rpm. after trying to get it to idle higher (pulsing the gas) it rises VERY slowly, and if i try to get the revs over abour 1100 rpm it pops and drops back down to 800 (still very rough) once it warms up a little bit it starts running a little better, but i have to ride the choke for the entire way to work. anyway, any help would be GREATLY appreciated, so that i can finally enjoy my car for all that it is! thx -jason

i.e. engine & tranny...

okay thanks!