Bambikiller240

frenchy13: It is possible to straighten a Z frame, but as with all frame straightening....it is EXPENSIVE!!! Un less the car is perfect in all other areas (ie NO rust, perfect interior and mechanicals, it is probably not worth the time & $$ to fix it. For $400 it sounds like a better choice would be to buy it & use the parts to make a sound STRAIGHT framed Z into a perfect one. Of course, opinions vary, but this is mine. Good luck. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

I assume that you are refering to the switch on a 73 240Z guessing from your name. The backup light switch is located on the passenger side of the 4-speed manual transmission. It connects to two wires with bullet connectors. It is kinda near the filler plug. HTH, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Are the Carbs 3-screw or 4-screw SU's? Will you sell the Carbs & Intake separate from the engine? Your price? ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

How about trying the "For Sale" Forum of 240Z.org??? You're almost there if you got here! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

I mounted mine on the passenger side of the center console. Positioned far enough forward to not be hit by Knees, and "up" enough for driver to reach. Works well. AIR, the antenna switch on my first Z was in the face plate of the radio, but when taking the radio out of the car, I seem to recall that the switch was mounted to the outside of the radio case with a screw.(behind the faceplate). ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Rust doesn't go away by itself. How much of the repair work can you do? How much would need to be farmed out($)? How extensive is the rust in the locations you see? Are you sure you have seen it all? or do you just want to drive it into the ground as is? The answers to these questions will get you further down the road to a decision. It all depends on your skills, desires, & plans for the car. FWIW, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Timberwolf: Hi, I'm not the Carl you wrote to, but I'm wondering if you have reduced the fuel pressure from what was required for the EFI? The SU's won't like the fuel pressure required for EFI. Just a thought. Good Luck on a Fix. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

What month was car MFG in? ie. Is it a Series 1 or Series 2 Z-car? Where is car located? Mileage? Is it Running? What parts are "New"? How New? What is condition of interior panels? Is wiring to guages burnt up? or? Is dash cracked? ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Seymourccc: I can't tell you much, but I do know that there are at least several ways to install the SBC's in a Z. The old ways like "Johns Cars kit" or the "Scarab" way puts the engine way to far forward to get good weight distribution and leave the car with poor balance and handling that is nearly impossible to remedy. The prefered way is the newer "Jags that Run" design which I'm told puts the engine right at the firewall, but results in near perfect 50/50 weight distribution. Don't know which way your car is built but I'm sure you will get resonses from others who can advise you further. Good Luck, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Atomrat: I can't answer the specific questions you asked, but I can tell you that the linkage for the round top carbs is different from the stuff you got on the flat-tops. You'll need to get linkage as well as carbs is what I'm saying. Good Luck ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

$900 Sounds almost too good of a price! How does the engine & trans run?? Either the guys doesn't know the value of what he's got, or you don't (yet) know all thats wrong with this car. Check it carefully & snap it up IF everything else is OK. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Maybe a fisherman without a boat-anchor would want them things! Real Z's use Round-Top SU's or EFI!!!

Question answered! [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 08-22-2000).]

Don't know about any adjustments, but most of the "20" horsepower he's talking about was already there, but was being used to spin that stupid smog pump instead of your tires! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

I believe that it is used to keep the steering rack from flexing when the car experiences severe loads while cornering hard. The rubber stopper is supposed to be snug up against the front cross-member. Sorry I don't have more info. Hope this helps a little. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Hi Jon: If you spray carb cleaner around the engine compartment, I'd be careful that you don't spray it on painted surfaces (overspray) or you may loose paint! It does sound possible that the prob a vac leak, but as a recent memory recall hit me, I recall simular problems being caused by worn throttle shafts on the carbs. Sets up an air leak (unmetered, obviously) that messes up your fuel mixture in a random sort of way. Thus the carbs are always trying to "catch-up" to proper mixture. It can get pretty weird. Good luck on finding the prob whatever it turns out to be! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

James: Use the 1973 carbs for boat anchors, thats about all they are good for!!! ;-) I concur on the suggestion to check out Scott's Round Top SU's at ZTherapy.com. I saw many of these units on the finer cars at the MSA show in April. NO ONE had a bad thing to say about these beauties! I'll have a set for my car as soon as I complete the current work on my car and pay off the parts bill! :-) ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Jon: Hi, saw your post about the "hunting" idle. AIR, it is a common problem for early Z's possibly caused by several different problems. As "billcap" mentioned, a worn distributor shaft could cause the problem, also a vacuum leak could be the culprit. Most times that I've seen the problem it has been worn throttle shafts in the carbs. Result is air leaks into the carbs. Unfortunately, if this is your problem, the fix is not cheep. (carb replacement or have yours rebuilt by a SU professional) If you determine that this is your problem, check into www.ZTherapy.com Scott Bruning sells awesome remanufactured SU's. I saw many sets of them at the MSA show in April & they are beautiful! Best thing though was that NOBODY that I spoke to about these carbs had a bad thing to say. Totally rave reviews. Good luck, & OBTW think I found the cap I was looking for! Fingers crossed! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Ron: Thanks for the info. I Hope to be there! I'll look for you & your car if I make it! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Ron: Sounds like you know more about it than I do. But, please can you tell me anything about the event. I've just gotten back "into Z's" after close to 15 yrs away from them & I'd love to go to some quality events in the North/ Central CA region. Any info would be appreciated. TIA, ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Go ahead & use propane. heat the area around the bushing til it smokes & starts to catch fire (a little). Now it's ready for your BIG hammer. WHACK IT!!!! Should fall into the bucket of water you were smart enough to have ready for it! Lots of ventilation & be careful when playing w/ fire! BTW, you MUST NOT remove the metal shells from the moustache bar or you will truely be screwed for using the urethane bushings. Just clean them up real good. Dont forget to use plenty of lube when assembling the bushings or your car will squeek (especially in cool weather)when it bounces. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 06-23-2000).]

Mike: Check out ZTherapy.com for an excellent video that costs under $20 delivered to your door, that describes in great detail how to adjust the round top SU's. It does sound like the front carb is running rich from the black (sooty) plugs in #1,2,3 cyls. Give it a try, you'll probably be amazed how easy it is to adjust them once you have "the knowledge" from Scott @ ZTherapy. I was! Good Luck! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com

Bob: Hard to go wrong with the stock set-up of dual SU's. (especially if you currently don't have them & purchase the beauty's put out by ZTherapy. (ZTherapy.com). Triple Mikuni's have got to be sweet, but from what I've heard, they are tough to keep in tune compared to the SU's. Good Luck! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@aol.com

Thank you, Jay for making the items available to us! ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@altavista.com [This message has been edited by Carl (edited 06-25-2000).]

Billcap: I am not an expert on this system, but it sounds to me like you are not getting sufficient vacuum trough the master-vac to provide the "normal amount of power-assist" that the driver expects to feel. One place to check is the little "one-way" valve that is in the hose that provides vacuum from the intake manifold to the master-vac unit. It may have been re-installed "backwards" so that it prevents vacuum from reaching the master-vac unit, thus preventing normal operation of the brakes. This may not be the problem on your car, but that is where I'd start looking. ------------------ Carl Stahlnecker 72 240Z "Bambikiller" HLS30-55703 11/71 cstahlnecker@hotmail.com bambikiller240@aol.com