Bambikiller240

1978 C Production Champion Frank Leary's Frogline Racing Z Car

I didn't like the analogy either. I would think the Z would be the Indy Car, and the ZX would be a Cadillac Fleetwood.

Certainly not bashful about asking price! Maybe I'm just cheap :cross-eye

This would be a Group 24F battery and it is a great idea to use. Just have to make sure the battery cables will both reach to where they need to be with the reversed posts.

, the guy says the car is rust-free, but "mentions" the acid eaten paint below the battery! And insinuates that THAT should be more acceptable than corrosian caused by water (rust)! :stupid: It will be interesting to see if the bids reach is "Buy It Now".

I've bought stuff from this guy before. He seems to sell stuff that is for the most part still available from dealers. If anyone wants this bracket, I'd suggest checking with Chloe before bidding to win. Just my $.02 PS I never had any complaints about the seller. Quick Shipper at reasonable cost IMO, it's just that I discovered that the items I bought frim him were in fact still available at slightly cheaper prices through dealers.

Two or Three years ago you could buy OEM Gloveboxes for 240Z's also. Can't do that anymore either.

I can't tell you much about it other than what we are really talking about is disassembly of the transmission and installing the guts into a different housing. It would need to be removed from the car, and you'd need to find a donor transmission for the replacement housing. How bad is the "metal ring" torn up? Picture? I'd try to avoid it if at all possible or maybe take the opportunity to replace your current trans with a 5 speed or another 4 speed.

Hi Mike: Actually, since I haven't been sufficiently motivated (or skilled) to create a replacement glovebox I do not feel that I'm in a position to quibble on price. You have gone through the effort (with assistance from Andrew) to make it happen and should certainly be compensated for your materials, time, and effort. A reasonable amount of profit wouldn't be out of line either, IMO Respectfully, I'll leave pricing up to your good judgement.

I'd like to get one, Mike. Have you thought about a price point and/or shipping method?

If I am understanding you correctly, the "metal ring" is actually machined into the transmission housing, so you'd have to replace the entire tailshaft housing if it is gouged up badly. The seal should be a tight fit (requiring a hammer and brass drift or block of wood to install the seal properly. When I had to replace my rear trans seal, I bought a cheap seal puller from the parts store to remove the seal. When it came time to install the seal I cleaned the entire area very well and applied a bead of good quality sealant to the trans housing (metal ring as you say) then tapped the seal into place evenly around the circumferance. Let it dry for a day or so before I added gear oil. So far, no leak.

Just don't put in too much oil. Make sure the oil level (with strut cartridge installed) is no closer than about 1" from the top of the strut tube. If you get it too full, the oil will seep out in small amounts and wet down your suspension so that dirt collects on it forever. BTDT

Yes, you do need that stud/bolthole to mount your header/manifold. Without it you will most certainly have an exhaust leak. It may appear to be sealed at first start-up, but it won't take long for the gasket material to get burned out and the leak will grow, and grow. As for the repair, this type of situation is one where I am not a fan of attempting a home repair. I don't mind drilling out bad threads in an aluminum head and installing a helicoil, but in a case like this one, I would contact a reputable local machine shop and enlist their services to remove the bad helicoil and install an appropriate new one. You may end up with an over-sized stud in that position, but IMO a prefessional has a better shot at making a successful repair than most of us do by trying it at home. You don't want to chance making the situation worse and ruining your cylinder head. There is no substitute for experience in this sort of situation. It should not be too expensive to have this done.

Would that be Hannah, the one who was posting under your name a few weeks ago?

Wheels can be Ok, but without vented rotors, you MAY have a problem using S12W calipers is what I was trying to say.

I thought S12W calipers were the ones for vented rotors and S12's were for the non-vented rotors. I think engine enamel is what you need, unless you have them powdercoated.

Glad to hear that everyone is OK, Mark. Have you considered sending any children of driving age to a Defensive Driving School such as are offered by places like Bob Bondurant, Jim Russell, Bertil Roos, etc. They can teach a lot more than the Drivers Education classes offered through public school systems. Car Control on a Skid Pad, Defensive Driving, Emergency Maneuvers, Driving on Ice, etc I don't have any kids, but having seen what the average teenager is capable of here in CA (:stupid:) I'd consider attendance at one of these schools as a possible life saving experience for a teenager.

I think we'll leave THAT up to you. You won't find many people here that like the Golden Toad either.

Well, It's the "norm" for me anyways. Looks like Ed's norm is the swing out method. Either way gets it done. need some help spending that extra $500??

I've always removed the halfshafts, disconnected brakes (fluid lines and E-brake cable), dropped exhaust system, then disconnected the INNER transverse link bolts (them 2 BIG BOYS on each side where the suspension mounts to the chassis) and then the 3 nuts at the top of the strut assembly. You end up with the entire Rear Suspension from each side of the car on the ground where you can play to your hearts content. Some folks will just loosen the INNER transverse link bolts and the remove the 3 nuts at the top of the strut and swing the suspension down, out of the wheelwell. (after having undone the halfshafts, brakes, etc as mentioned above) Bottom line is there is no need to separate the transverse link (A-Arm) from the strut assembly.

Changing the struts is a simple straight forward job. If you did the bushings replacement, you could do the struts yourself. Are you asking them to replace the spindle pins? It isn't necessary for these to be changed in order to replace the struts, but even if they are to do the pins, it's simple, they just send them out to a machine shop to be pressed out. No Muss, No Fuss. Never sent work like this out to be done for money. If they are afraid of the job, find someone else. JMO