lordbiotree

Will the old keys work on the later 240-Z? Did they change the lock design? Also was Nissan (and Toyota) one of the first car makers to use the double sided key's. I know most American car's didn't get them until the 90's. I've always wondered that -Brandon

what's advantages of converting to electronic dizzys? I have a 71 series I with a duel point dizzy from a 72 auto. Thanx for your input, Brandon

MSA(www.zcarparts.com) sells both 3 and 4 row radiators. It really doesn't matter how many rows the radiator has. Is what matters most is fins per square inch. I do not have personal experience with MSA nor know how Stock-looking they are. I run duel fans (one pushing and one pulling). They seem to work great for me here in Florida. I took her out Saturday during 100 degree heat and she ran cold as ice. I've seen some 80's chevy camaro radiator conversions. They are not direct bolt up but work great and inexpensive My$.02 Brandon

Can the single crab hook up to an Z or maxima? I think it would be more reliable or a great back up. Probably much easier to tune too. I wouldn't pay a $100:stupid: around $45 would be more reasonable. Brandon

Heres a pic of two pf my keys. dont know how to put picture in the post so download only. ignition key on the left. Door key on right.

Those dont look like orignal Z keys but they are Nissan keys. The only one that'll work on a Z is the one on the left.I've never seen a Short single sided Z key befor.I'll post a pic of my orginal keys.

One more thing. Isn't that a RHD prototype? There doesnt Look to be much of a difference in the body designs.

I'll have to give it to Kats. I think your a very great man. You have gone out of your way to give us information without a fee. Most of us here in the states haven't seen before. You'll Always be rembered. As for Alan and Carl, All I have too say is both of you make very good points which I (most of us) have never really paid attention too. I think this thread should be saved and not forgotten. It should be put in it's own folder. If you have to search to find it then it'll only be accessible to people who know what there looking for. As for me I'm saving it for future reference. Just some Food-for-thought. -Brandon

I run straight exhaust with an 6-1 header oh boy does it sound great. It has a great purr at idle. There are no smog laws here in Florida. She doesn't come out enough for it to matter any ways. regards, Brandon 71 series I

Assuming your car still has the stock cam. IN that case you don't need anything more than a good set or round top S. U's. If your car has been modified stock S. U aren't for you. Duel Webber's are great for street use for highly modified or stock cars. The only problem is they don't like your wallet. Duel Webber's around $1100 triples over $2000.Ebay will some times have like new Webber's but there usually $500&up. I always see round top SU's the need help. Zthearpy sells great Remanufactured SU's(http://www.ztherapy.com/) . Also try rebello racing(http://www.rebelloracing.com/) happy hunting, Brandon P. S you can't get anything more reliable than round top S. U's

I own 3 71's. I could never use them as a daily driver. I see them as a time piece. To be driven for pleasure and kept in the family. As for later Z's ( 280zx and on) I see those as great daily drivers. I drive a 96 Nissan 4x4 Hard Body every day. I enjoy being able to stop by the junk junkyard and pick up parts for my project Z. That's what I would recommend to any one who can afford it. Get your self a truck. Trailer you Z to car shows or while your driving in the country side and happen to see a Z you can maybe bring you home a new parts car/toy. Get your self a 280zx. You don't want a turbo cuz when the turbo goes out you'll be walking. I wouldn't recommend a 300zx because they are an electrical mess. There are just too few 240s and really shouldn't be totaled. Hope I didn't bore any one out, Brandon

From what I've seen nowadays it's going to be very hard to find a rust free 240Z. I've been very lucky. I own 3 1971 240Z's an orange, silver and Gold&black (repainted in 91). My orange Z is completely stock and never has been restored. The Gold&Black Z has totally been restored. None of those have any rust nor had any when bought. My silver Z is currently my project and has no floor pans or rails other than that it's a great car. I plan to do some kind of a turbo convo. The well kept Z cars with no rust will be around the 10-15k price range. at the 5k price range you'll get a great Z yes with some rust but usually the eigne has been rebuilt and babied. If you really want to get down and dirty and put in some true and honest hard work the floor&rails can be replaced. If the rest of the car is almost rust free now you've got your self a 8-9K car.It'll never be wrath the big bucks but will be a great daily driver. I'm starting on replacing floor pans and trying to fabricate really strong rails right now.

Not trying to be mean and mean no harm. I would never give up my Z for a car like that. Although I wouldn't mind taking it for a weekend or test drive. I would sell it to some young girl with a rich father and go and buy the best 240Z I can find. Happy Z hunting:D Brandon 1971 240Z(series I)

I am unable to log on at work, but when I come home I'm loged on for sevral hours.

I have a bone stock Orange 1971 240Z(series 1) never been restored With the bumper end caps. I'm the 3rd owner of the car. I bought her from a collector. I also own 2 other 1971 240Z's and they do not have any bumper end caps. Brandon (purest to the core)

The only thing that matters is as long as the new rails are all one piece running from the back to the front for stringth.in the first picture it doesn't look like it's all one piece. Remember you whole front end are ridding on the rails. The only thing that matters is strength. The welds look great to me. I am by no means a professional welder.