Mr Camouflage

Yeah well you see some crazy stuff on the internet. I saw a starion owners website. He obviously knew a lot about autocad and nothing about turbos and engines. He'd designed and rendered a drawing of an engine, and he'd modified the turbo to be driven by the flywheel, via a gear wheel, instead of the exhaust gas turbine, and was asking what people thought about it.

Blower motor? Isn't that some crazy american anti pollution / power robbing device (AKA Air pump)? or are we talking about the fan inside the car to demist your windows? the only blower motor on aussie cars it the latter. supercharging, now thats a completely different issue:classic:

Where were the ones you looked at. The last one I saw advertised was in mindarie for $2500, i never went and looked at it because I dont have the cash at the moment. What sort of price range are you looking at. Theres a real nice 240z on carpoint but it's $11000 and it's in SA (I think), but you get 2 for one, cause they are throwing in a parts car also. Now if I could only win lotto.

My 240z had a loose (I dont know what its called so here goes) bit where the drive shaft bolts onto the wheel flange thingo, that's held on by a big nut, and has splines in it. You know the one. I just unbolted the driveshaft from the flange and tightend the nut up, and bolted the driveshaft back up. Problem solved. ...and it aint that hard to do it in the front seat.

Here's what they say about it 1972 Datsun 240Z Vehicle Description 1972 Datsun 240Z, Collector car, dark blue now but originally was lime green, black interior, has set of 5 280Z alloy wheels, good tires, rust in typical places, good hatchback, dual carbs with headers, new master cylinder, rebuilt carbs, good 4 speed trans., front disc-rear drum brakes, Vehicle Condition Car is complete in restoreable condition, runs but needs good tune-up, has good compression in all clylinders, doesn't burn oil, good clutch and drivetrain, minor dents, some extra parts, original jack and acessaries. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1835646278

I wonder how much a genuine nissan/datsun g nose, flares, and rear spoiler would cost from a nissan dealer? or even if they are available? Isn't that why people buy non geniune parts, to save money, or because you cant get them anymore. Mr C.

Should be between 0.45 to 0.55 mm (sorry dont know the gap in inches) for a L24 engine with no emmission controlls (D606-52 distributer), or .30 to .40 for a L24 with emmission controls (D609 56A distributer) I believe. Dwell angle 35 to 41 degrees. Spark plug gap .8 to .9mm Mr C.

For sale on ebay in australia: Datsun 240z brochure and FairladyZ handbook http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2107208280

The 240Z was released in Australia in 1970 with a 5 speed manual. In 1970 they sold 110 units. 1971 they sold 751 units, stock shortages in 1972 cut sales to 534 units. Source: Modern Motor, January 1974 ( Australian magazine). Not sure if/when an automatic transmission model was released. I know the 260z 2+2's had autos because I knew a girl that owned one. She now has a 85 300zx. Mr Camouflage

I started working on a 3D modle of a 240z a while ago, but have been too busy to get any further than the headlights, surrounds, and front bumper. My aim was to create a highly detailed accurate model, not the type you would use in a game, but photorealistic quality to improve my modelling skills. I intend to modell all parts (eg, body pannels, engine components, etc) seperatlly so that eventually I'll have a complete virtual model of a 240z. This project will take forever, and I'll probably have to buy a 240z to take measurments off. Well that's my excuse buy a 240z. Mr Camouflage

Yeah prison, good one. The Brits didn't think that throught to well did they. Lets send them to a beautiful tropical island with perfect weather and rich gold and mineral deposits as punishment, while we stay here in this soggy country. Max max huh. Ford Falcon coupe 351 V8 with a blower and nitros. those were factory produced road cars (without the blower and nitros of course). BTW thats "wasn't" not "was'nt" ZXTACY. Drrrrrrrrr

Sounds like you've got a death wish, driving a car that hasn't moved for 10 years. I bet the brakes dont work and the lines are corroded enough to cause you problems. That's if the brake pistons even move. Cylinder walls are probably corroded too. All that trouble over a 2+2. It's just my opinion but they are damn ugly cars. Should start a new Poll: who thinks 2+2's are ugly?

I saw the Z Concept (the bronze colored one) at a car show today in Perth, Western Australia, and I have to say I still think its ugly. The Silver one looks better with it's slight changes especially the front grill, and I think the color has a lot do with it also. I still like my photoshop created z better, But if nissan would only do something about those damn ugly door handles, i'd be happy. Mr Camouflage.

The standard engine has the PCV pipe going to the air filter box from the valve cover. Because the car in the photo has non standard carbs they would of have had the choice of putting a filter on the valve cover, or running the pipe to the new carbs, which would be more tricky to do. The PVC system is designed to suck the nasty gasses out of the crankcase, through the engine where they are burnt, so they aren't so nasty when they come out of the exhaust. Mr C.

Probably had something to do with design regulations of european countries. They probably had to be a certain distance from the ground or something silly like that. My (Australian '71) 240z had indicators located in the sidelights and had a clear plastic lense. I think it was a single globe with 2 filaments, but I could be wrong. It didn't have indicators fitted on the bumper, it had the metal overrider things (whatever they are called). and I'm pretty sure later models had combination of clear and orange lenses for the respective sidelight/indicator globes. Mr C

I remember when someone used to come into the hardware/gardening store where I worked ages ago with an old wagon in which the gas strut had stopped working and wouldn't hold the tailgate up. His Solution: drill a small hole through the shaft in the open position, and attach a small nail on a chain to fit through the hold and hold the tailgate open. Not very elegant, but better than holding the hatch open with a 4x2 lump of timber. (and just incase your stupid read below) Now dont go drilling into the gas can part (the fat black part), drill through the strut piston part (the chrome skinny bit). Mr C

I have a "Brooklands books" book called "Datsun 240Z 1970-1973" (ISBN 1 869826 833) compiled by R.M. Clarke, that is full of magazine road test articles from magazines like Road & track, Car and Driver, Road test, Autocar, Motor, Modern Motor, etc etc. from 1970 up to 1987. If you could find yourself a copy of this book I'm sure it would have all the information your after. It's an interesting read also, and the photos of the early prototypes from one of the stories make it worth owning. Mr C.

Yeah getting better all the time. I was gonna do something with the lights myself, but It was getting late and I was tired. Now maybe move the round z badge from the front fender to rear quarter pannel behind the window and do something about those damn ugly wheels. Nissan should start a design studio in Australia and give me and Alfadog jobs. __________________ Mr Camouflage Anyone wanna buy my TX3 (323) 4WD turbo so I can get a 240z?

That 240z (used to?) belongs to a Mr. Miyahara of Japan his web site was at http://www.geocities.co.jp/MotorCity/1147/ But I cant read japanise to find out why the pictures aren't there anymore. Other pics of the same car are at: http://zhome.com/Dec99/Kei200ZX-R.htm

I agree with the comments it looks like an ugly toad, and the front looks like a Honda s2000. I think the cabin is too far forward, and whats with the bump on the back end of the car. If I was designing for nissan it would have made the proportions of the car more like the original 240z. Heres on I made in photoshop (bottom) and the 350z (top) for comparison. Mr C

That should be Dodgey. and Also. Can upload the photos if anyone wants to see them. I'm sure it will break some copyright laws though! Mr C.

So are you saying that US and Canadian 240z's only had a 4 speed manual? Australian and English 240z's had 5 speeds right from when they started exporting to these countries. I didn't realise that US had four speed's, but having looked in my datsun 240z book that has reviews from old car magazines, i notice that all the us mags list 4 gears. Well you learn something every day. It's alos got a great story on the development of the 240z with some interesting prototype and clay model photos in it, including some very sodgey looking front ends. Mr C.

So why would you want to put rear disc brakes on a 240z anyway? The stock rear drums have a larger braking surface area than 280zx disc brakes anyway, hence more braking force, so unless you were racing the car and were worried about cooling issues I dont see a reason to do it. Mr C

No I dont think you need to go that far! It been ages since I owned a 240z and I cant really remember how it fixed to the dash. It's underneath, pointing towards the ground isn't it? It's probably held on by a nut around the center of the knob, either on the knob side of the dash or the other side. But I'm just guessing. Have a good look at it in daylight, crawl under the dash with a torch if you have to. Better still, use a small mirror so you can see behind the dash. It shouldn't be too difficult to see how it's held in there. Mr C.

The Things you are refering to are capacitors, but they wouldn't help in this case as the voltage isn't getting to the globes in the first place because of the dimmer control. If I rememeber correctly they are big heavy chunky things with a contact and a coil resistor in insulative housing. The coil and the contact corrode (or get dirty) increasing the resistance, so your lights go dimmer. You can clean up the contacts with a bit of wet and dry, or if you never use it, short circuit it, taking it out of the circuit, so you get 12 volts going straight to your dash lights. Mr C