deadflo

So Alan what's your read on the first thread of this post about the triple solex carb? The story was written by Jack Yamaguchi, who was Road and Tracks man in Tokyo in 1970, do you know why it never made it into production? BTW, saw your input in the Classic and sportscar this month. Whats the scoop on you being allowed into the Nissan musum? enlighten uis as to its contents....

Hey all, A Heads up for everyone to look for a June copy of Classic and Sports car magazine. This british mag is top drawer, especially for a unique English view of many cars we know well, like our own 240Z. This months issue features the well worn debate on 350Z vs 240-Z, and even has a sidebar focus on our club member Alan! He gets to revive the debate over the Z's first intended market... Ok Alan, maybe youve mentioned it here before but what is the buzz about you being allowed into Nissans special archive museum?

Hey folks, I have an interesting backlog of old road and ttrack and car and Driver mags from the 70's. I love to peruse them time to time (although my wife thinks I'm a compulsive collector). Anyway a few days back I stumbled on a 1970 issue. Contained therin on a page devoted to miscelaneous ramblings was a report from Japan on the then new Z. The mag(Rand T) had already run the road test of the 240-Z But this was a report from the Tokyo auto show of 1970. It mentioned the Z432 vehicle, that was for domestic sale only ..then mentioned that Nissan was seriously considering a triple carbed 240Z for sale in the US by 1971. It would have been an upscale more expensive model utilizing SOLEX carbs. Anyone ever hear any more about this concept? Did they ever sell such an item in the home market? Kats, maybe some of your Nissan connections may know?

Anyone tried to match the blue Z interior colors with this stuff,? I am thinking about door panels....

Hey Im jealous of you guys that did the Mt Hamilton run!! I live in Washington state, but visited the mountain a few years back . Im an amatuer astronomer and paid a visit to the observatory, but did drool over the road to to the top and thought Gee i wish i had my Z here!! Good choice of a spring drive my friends!!

26th wrote: >>I just received one of those fancy blue parts books - this one "revised 1 December 1973" - USA and Canada Parts Catalog. In the introductory chapter it says without explanation: C/# HLS30-00013 from Oct. 69 C/# HLS30-21001 from Jan. 71 C/# HLS30-46001 from Sep. 71 C/# HLS30-120001 from Jul. 72 << I guess you guys are probably way ahead of me on this, but my read on this info is the different s30 incarnations. I know that the series one cars ended with HLS30 21001, so this list shows the serial numbers for series one, two and three.

For what its worth. My car is one of the last series ones, HLS30-20390, Its door jamb plate shows a build date of 1-71. So it really was built in 71 although it is a series one. It has a matching number engine L24 O27310. The matching engine is a P-30 block. I wonder if its one of the first S30's with a P-30 block? Also regarding Brian Littles webpage his timeline shows the E-88 head starting in 71, and the copy says the e-31 head was on "early 70" cars. My car has an e-88 head but again its a series one car. I cant verify the head is original but there was some paperwork with the car about a head rebuild in the late 70's and not a lot of miles on the car since then. Again i cant confirm it is the original head though....but I see confilcting info around about when the e-88 actually was first used. Whats the scoop?

Hey 26th Z, did you notice the sales invoice shows the car as a "1970 Datsun 4 cylinder HLS30"?

Heres the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2477664214&category=6187 I suppose it is rare to see a zap car with g nose as well?? But I thought the zap package is supposed to have these colored decals along the sides of the car. Im mailing the seller to see what they say. it is a very clean car nonetheless...

Yes that's actually what i suspected, although in this case the noise was when I would let the clutch out rather than push it in, anyway it sounded just like when i had the same problem in a 71 corolla... Anyway, anyone know more about a good site for the 5 to 4 speed swap in connection with a series one? I dont want to radically alter the interior, so if that means swapping out for the series 2 console, i think i'll just stick to the four speed.

Hey the link that blitzcraig put here for the 5 speed swap into a series one is dead, anyone know where I can get another overall view of this process? My 4 speed appears to have bit it over the weekend, was popping out of second gear, and then very difficult to get in any gear, save for fourth. (is it ironic that when this happened I had driven my Z to look at a low serial number 70 for sale??? anyone wanting info on this car, in spokane, send me a PM) Anyway, i managed to get home , the car had been making "wooshing" noise when I let out the clutch in neutral. I understand i may have modify my console to put the 5 speed into my series one. Im not real sure i want screw up the orignal console though... I may just opt to stay with my four speed...

Well Im hoping it is the throw out bearing as well, I would guess that means the previous owner didnt put a new one in if indeed they did rebuild the tranny. I was looking at the ratios of the later five speeds and the lower gears arent a whole lot different than the the early four sopeeds so i guess if i eventually do a swap the low speed torque should suffer alot.

Hi I am Steve a public radio reporter in Spokane Washington. I'm 47 years old and fell in love with the Z when my eighth grade female english teacher showed up at school with a brand new 1970 orange 240-Z. I bought a cherry 79 ZX in 1990, and have babied that car for 14 years. I continued to search for an acceptable 240-Z since about 1991. I drove maybe 20 cars in my area in the next few years. I saw a couple that interested me but had no approval from my wife at the time for a second Z car. This year I found a nice series one 71 on this website for sale in oregon. The wife said OK, so I bought that car, and hope to dial in a few fixes, get her paid off, then eventually paint the Z in a year or two. I love this website, great to have help from all you folks on many issues!

So...did the tranny shift OK? Make any noises?? Do you know how many miles are on it? was it ever rebuilt? Thanks for any info you have...

Hey folks. My tranny in my early 71 (4 speed style A) is making some noise when i let out the clutch in neutral. I understand this could spell trouble.it's a whirring noise like you would get with a bad throw out bearing when you push the clutch in. The service manual says it could be clutch related or bearing related. I plan to ask a local tranny shop what they think, any ideas here?? The previous owner told me the tranny had been rebuilt recently, and the tranny fluid does look pretty clean. Maybe the problem is something minor? Anyway Im also wondering what everyone thinks about doing a five speed swap and concerns with car originality. Its a series one that is all original, including matching engine number. Do you think the swap would still be a good thing? I know the A series trannies were problematic anyway, but I'll need to do some cutting to get the shifter to fit in the early series car. The car already has a 3.9 rear endso Im turning 4K at 70MPH in fourth. But I do like the acceleration with the stock four speed and the 3.9 rear end.

I dont mind that stiff of ride, but the current problem is really the odd inability of the suspension to deal with rough roads where handling is concerned. The handling is poor because the rear end is "losing it"..literally mving sidways at speed when you hit rough patches of roads. Do you think the reaction to rough roads would be caused primarily by the bushings versus the shocks or springs? I've seen another link that mentioned too stiff of a rear end from a large rear sway bar, I'm wondering if the aftermarket bar on my car could contribute to that? I'd like to fit the Tockico spring and strut package, but wonder if I should just start with bushings first.

My "new" 71 Z has some problems with handling. Im not sure how old the shocks springs or bushings are but heres some symtoms of the problem. The car has a real tendency to "bottom" out on undulating road surfaces. The bottoming occurs in ther rear and I'm referring to a "squonshing " noise on hitting bumps. The noise happens more often when i have more weight in the back, like when the gas tank is full. More problematic is when I hit rough patches of road with the rear suspension. especially on the right rear, the car will "jump" a bit sideways. Yesterday on a tght corner at only about 35 MPH the rear hit a bump and really lost it sideways. Ok the car has both front and rear swaybars, both have good poly bushings. I couldn't really see obviously badly deteriorated bushings, but im not an expert. Many of the suspension parts are painted..the springs and sway bars have been painted yellow. Would this indiavte how old they are? I think they are lowering springs because my tire and wheel combo really fill the wheelwell. Im wondering if the springs are sagging, Ive heard if they're too stiff they can cause handling problems on rough roads and thats certainly the case. I like to get away with just changing the shocks, but maybe i need springs too?

Hey I have bought stuff from MSA since 1990 for my ZX and now for my 240. I agree they are a lot busier than before, but heres my recomendation, . Get the right person on the phone! I like working with Sal. He knows his stuff and is very friendly. Some of the other guys are not so knoweledgeable, and also not particularly nice either. When you call MSA and the message asks if you want to connect to a particluar extension, hit 201, it will tek you to Sals phone or his voice mail. You wont regret it!

Bambililler, thanks for the prompt response on a saturday morning. Good to have you guys around. Im glad i didnt FU the operation!

Ok, well I recieved some black rivets from MSA last night, I;ll see if I can get the panel back in my 71 today. The lone rivet that was holding it in place does look like the ones they sent, except they all have these little "poles" protruding from the top of the rivet, I guess I have to cut those off after I insert them into the holes?? Tomohawk, I was referring to the inside of the hatch panel,not the tailight panel, but again the lone attaching device left in place appears to be a rivet, not a screw, as Carl describes.. Also it looks like there are a few "clips" in the holes where the rivets are to go, but those clips arent at every hole, do i need to pick up some of those metal clips for all the holes to do this correctly?

My rectangular tailgate "panel" inside the car is hanging by one final corner screw. Motorsport guys said it needs rivets, but the guy I talked to didnt know what kind of screw was holding it on the four corners. (the rivets apparantly go into little clips on the other holes, with plastic screws in the corner.) What are these screws, they must be in the MSA catalog arent they?? I had to order black rivets as well cause the werent any blue ones left.

Hey , you know I actually have purchased the video! I tried to wade through it again to find any reference to the piston lifting trick and couldn,t find it. I did find one shot of the piston being lifted but no dialouge to mention what he was looking for. I have seen the reference to lifting the piston on three different websites, but no one was real clear about which carb the process was indicating the mixture for. Also, one website says to lift the needle pistion 1/8 of an inch, another to lift it nearly to the top...so im still a bit confused.

Hey I got a carb synch tool and worked on balancing my carbs on my 71 this weekend. I think I did ok, the car is running pretty good , although it wasn't that far off, but i have a question about setting the carb mixtures. When I lifted a piston in one carb to check the mixture, the engine continued to run ..roughly, so i'm told that means my mixture is a bit rich. OK, so when i went to raise the piston in the other carb she started to die, so that means Im running a bit lean. Does this mean when i raise a piston in one carb, the engine symptoms point to the condition of that carb, or the one I'm not raising the piston in?? This may sound like a dumb question, but some info indicates when you raise the piston, youre making that carb inoperable,so I'm not sure if the symptons shown are for a carb that isnt working, or the one that is...

Hey I got a carb synch tool and worked on balancing my carbs on my 71 this weekend. I think I did ok, the car is running pretty good , although it wasn't that far off, but i have a question about setting the carb mixtures. When I lifted a piston in one carb to check the mixture, the engine continued to run ..roughly, so i'm told that means my mixture is a bit rich. OK, so when i went to raise the piston in the other carb she started to die, so that means Im running a bit lean. Does this mean when i raise a piston in one carb, the engine symptoms point to the condition of that carb, or the one I'm not rasing the piston in??