deadflo

Sorry Carl, Go to ebay listing for datsun z series. Right now, saturday monring at 8:50 am PDT it is about halfway donw the listing, a yellow "rust free 73" from California. Auction expires in 2 days, 10 hours. It really looks pretty good save for speakers in the door. It has one closr up shot showing an ORIGINAL HUBCAP! But the photos of the entire car show later caps... Bid is at 3600 dollars, reserve met...

Check this car out it actually looks pretty good: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ViewItem&category=6187&item=2487690891&rd=1 Dont know why its listed as a 73, but the price right now is pretty reasonable...

I have read in some automotive literature that if you originally ran leaded gas in an engine with non-hardened valve seats, that that was enough to permanently lubricate the seats and you could run unleaded after that . Not sure how long you had to run the leaded gas, but I know for certain that the unleaded gas didnt arrive until 1971 (having worked in chevron station that year at the age of 15). Very few cars could use the unleaded when it hit the market. Obviously if you have a pinging problem, you need to switch to higher octane.

In my case the symptom Im seeing is my engine revving without feeling an increase in the actual speed of the vehicle. Thus the clutch is not fully engaging the transmission to the engine in the drivetrain.

Ok!, so I actually hold the adjusting nut as well and adjust with a screwdriver?

Hmm, well I have a Blue on Blue series one. I would be willing to trade straight across for his silver car, do you think he'd mind the extra 100 thousand miles mine has on it?

A couple months ago, I had a bearing kit put in my 71 4 speed tranny . After i got it back from the shop, I had occaisonal "crucnhing" when shifting into reverse. The shop adjusted the rod on the slave cylander so the crunching went away.I noticed the clutch pedal action felt firmer as well. Yesterday i noticed I am beginning to get clutch slippage. Note that I had the shop inspect my clutch when it was out and they said it is fine. I hear that it is very liklely the slippage is caused by the slave cylinder being adjusted too much in the other direction. I want to adjust the rod on the slave myself. I see it has a lock nut and an adjustment nut, but I'd like some advice before jumping into it... has anyone dealth with this before??

Hey heres some developments on this thread I started. Recall I had a bearing kit put in the tranny. I finally went back to the shop mentioning the occaisonal crunching problem. The other symptom was the clutch pedal felt softer to depress,especially in the free play area. They said they would adjust the clutch "at the slave cylinder". They did say when the did the tranny work that the clutch looked OK... When I got it back the crunching was gone, the pedal felt much firmer, but I noted the engagement was much higher, near the top end of the pedal. OK I had another thread about erratic acceleration, where the car seemed to decelerate occaisonally on acceleration then pick back up again. On a drive today I was sure the problem is likely clutch slippage. Example, when pulling out of a gas station heading up a steep hill, the engine seemed to "race" ahead in gears with little accleration , and then drop in revs as the clutch engaged. So Im thinking I need to tweek that adjustment they did in the slave cylander. Is there really an adjhustment there or did they just adjust the free play? Im not certain how to do that either..Please help!

Gee Bill I cant seem to recall, although i do remember something about a Grateful Dead concert...

Hey, I know way to get us off the angry political debate (talk about polarization) and wizz off everyone enough to keep the thread going in a different direction. I would definitely have traded my old super beetle for that Z, but I dont think I would have traded my VW bus for it!! Mainly cause the ad was so freakin confusing, but also, because I loved my bus, and I want to move the discussion away from this debate! Even though I think George W Sucks!!!

Yesterday I took a couple of long crusises in the car. In the morning temperatures were in the low eighties and she ran just fine. I took another drive in late afternoon when it was in the 90's and she still was ok, so i guess this really is an intermitent thing.I put about 130 miles on the car without incident. But I 'm thinking the fuel filter scenario sounds likely. I dont beleive the gas tank has ever been out of the car for any type of cleaning or reseal. I will check the filter again before the summer is over. I have read somewere that cold weather can definitely affect your gas filter, although I'm not real sure why. I still wonder if hot weather can be a factor...

Thanks Carl, I was just thinking about the fuel filter, although its probably been only 3000 miles since I changed it, but i'll look at it today, and maybe examine the plugs as well..it seems like the problem began when we got hit with real hot weather I wonder if theres a connection?

Any ideas on why i get a breif deceleration while accelerating either at part or full throttle? It is an intermitent problem for sure. It can happen when applying throttle at any RPM, you give her gas, say at 3500, she will accelerato to maybe 4200, then fall back to 4000 for a second then pick up again,. Otherwise the engine is running very smooth, no jerky action during these episodes. Does it sound like a timing advance problem? its not just the tach malfunctioning, I can hear the enigine fall off in revs for a few seconds, but again it is internmitent. This is in my 71 with stock carbs, only mod is header and exhaust.

That sounds like a good idea,do i have to get a new gasket if I pull the cover, and how mcuh should I retighten the bolts when putting it back on. Also, any idea why I can not hear the ticking when i first run the car as opposed to after it has been driven for a few miles, does that sound like the valve scenario?

I had the valves adjusted less than 3 thousand miles ago. By clatter do you mean a valve thats too loose? If so is that a big concern? I know ive never heard this noise (again not real audible) on my l-28 in my ZX.

Anyone have any ideas why I am hearing a "ticking" noise that appears to be coming from the valve train of my L24? Its not real loud, in fact it seems like i dont hear it at all unless i have been driving the car for awhile...it doesnt seem to be an exhaust leak or anything like that..it seems like a real quiet version of the old lifter noise you'd hear on a v-8. I just noticed it this week. The engine seems to be running fine with plenty of power. I myself have never done a valve adjustement on my cars, leaving that chore for my mechanic on a regular basis. Do you think it could be valve related, or a spring or something? Again its not very audible but it is definitely there...

I took a drive on that same road on the fourth of July. Ironically as I rounded a corner this time I encountered a line of about ten Corvette drivers out for the day. This time not a single one waved! Somewhat of a contrast with the Porsche folks....

Any ideas on why i would get "crunching" of gears when I try to get reverse in my 71 z with original 4 speed (series A tranny)? The problem is intermitent, and has only happened 3 times. BUT when it did, after I did get reverse, and went into neutral on the way to first gear, I was unable to get into any of the gates for any gear, UNTIL I let the clutch out and pushed it back in, then no problems whatever. I just had a bearing kit put in the tranny 500 miles ago. Symptoms at the time were popping out of gear and finally, you guessed it, inability to put lever into any gear. I told the shop that did the work about my new problem, they want me to come in Monday and look at it. Could this be a clutch issue? They told me the clutch looked ok when they pulled the tranny, what about clutch adjusment. Again its not happening all the time whcih is pretty weird.

Chris wrote >>The data plate on my wife's 75 280Z said 170 HP. And I believe the ratings were in GROSS horsepower not NET like they are now. The 280ZX was tagged as 149 hp NET. And I thought there were no changes in the motor when it went from the 280Z to the 280ZX. << Interesting Chris, i know that Road and Track listed the HP of the 75 280-Z at 149. I've seen a reference the 170 HP figure in a 77 article from R and T, and even Brian Longs book mentions the 77 280-Z as having an UPRATED HP of 170. Also my 79 ZX tag shows 135 HP (net) I'm curious why Nissan would quote net ratings (SAE) by 74, then revert back to gross ratings after that...

Hey I posted this as a follo to the l-24 HP question but I think it got lost in the fray. Something Ive been wondering about for years. Nissan changed to using net HP numbers in 74 . Following that, the first 280Z's were rated at 149 HP, but why is the 77 Z rated at 170HP?? Does that engine really have more power? Looks like the same engine as the earlier 280, and the performance specs seem to be the same as well..... Another question. my71 engine plate shows the power at 150 at 6000RPM. Why do some sources show the 240Z power peak at 5600 rpm??

Matt wrote earlier: >Well the L28 On a 79 and up 280ZX had Net RWHP of 135 because of all of >the smoge regulations in the US. The 78 and earlyer 280Z brough 149 RWHP >(net). Here is a link http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/gene...41/article.html And then Carl Beck wrote >First - I'm sorry to say that who ever wrote that article - really didn't know much about the Z Cars. Way too many factual errors there. OK Something Ive been wondering about for years. Nissan changed to using net HP numbers in 74 . Then the first 280Z's are rated at 149 HP, but why is the 77 Z rated at 170HP?? Does that engine really have more power? Looks like the same engine as the earlier 280, and the performance specs seem to be the same as well..... Another question. my71 engine plate shows the power at 150 at 6000RPM. Why do some sources show the 240Z power peak at 5600 rpm??

This Sunday i had one of THOSE drives. Everything was perfect. The weather a sunny summer day with just a few poofy white clouds. I headed out of the city to the palouse country of eastern Washington. This is a rolling hilly terrain marked by bright green fields of wheat and peas, tiny little towns and picturesque barns and farms. The best part of course is the roads! Amazing corners and lots of up and down action. I was heading along a famikliar road with lots of big sweepers when i spied a side road I wasnt familiar with . I was in a real space on this new road, very smooth pavemnt, and incredibly narrow, and very windy. As i rounded a corner and had a view about a quarter mile ahead i spied what i thought was a new VW beetle, headed my way. It disappeared behind a hill and when it appeared just a few hundred feet ahead on a corner i saw it was a 911 SC. Suprisingly the driver gave me a thumbs up as we met. You know how porsche onwers can be when youre driving a 240-Z.Not often the most friendly! Anyway i rounded another corner, and sure enough there was another 911. This guy didnt even look my way. The next quick corner another Porsche, this one a gold 911 turbo and this guy flashed his lights and me and waved too!, Around the next corner, a straightaway and saw a line of about 12 more Porsches of all types. i waved at each driver as I wnet by them Only one acknowledged me, most stared straight ahead, even one guy in a lowly 924! At this point I opened up my Z and roared by these people , with m,y header and 3 inch exhaust roaring like a mother at about 85 MPH. I thought it hilarious that some ignored my presence, given I was the onlyother car on the lonely road!! Anyway I was delighted at least three porsche owners had acknowleged the mighty Z!

For what its worth about two years ago I saw a rusted out 280-Z sitting in a yard overgrown with weeds while I was out riding my bike. It was very oxidized orange, and appeared to be the original color. It looked to be a 75 or 76 by the bumpers. I recall at the time thinking I had never seen a 280 that was orange. Im guessing it was the original color by its condition.

I wonder why everyone is so defensive of their early gen Z's? Of course they are the original, and hence the most pure form of the car. Light,strong, agile, delightful to drive, and of course absoulutely gorgeous. Tryying to follow that act is not easy, but the first ZX (79-83)is also an incredible vehicle. Maybe one of the most reliable cars ever made. much more the refined tourer, but whats wrong with that? Certainly miles ahead of its competitors in the day. Would you rather drive a DATSUN (thats what it says on the tail) 280ZX or a corvette? I have a series one 240 Z and a series one 280 ZX. Both are excellant cars. They both get comments about how beautiful they are, and i enjoy the crap out of driving them. Anyone who has a problem with that can F*&@ OFF.

Anyone have advise on a good general purpose book on how to do car maintence and repair? I have the service manual for both my Z's,(and the Z therapy carb balance video) but i really need a good easy to understand book on how to do tuneups, brake work,small repairs, etc. Its hard to find a good book nowadays that actually has tuneup info for old skool cars with points, etc. I suppose there may be some good web sites as well, anybody have any good leads?