kmack

Zedrally is right. You can get the Flatties to work. I've done it, but I had to disassemble them, clean up everything I could get to, and carefully put them back together. As for his comments that they run better than the round-tops, I have no experience there. I sold the flatties and put in my round tops before I drove the car much. What you need to do with any carb that has been sitting for over a year, is to clean out every orifice and port that you can get carb cleaner through. Pull out the jet needle and clean it off too. Clean up the piston and all the old oil in the damper. Clean out the float bowl and the needle valve. Also make sure you seal up the float chamber on those carbs REAL well. Otherwise they will leak. Mine did. Once you've gotten them clean, then they should work pretty good. Like Zedrally said, they are preset (mixture) at the factory. So as long as you don't touch the settings when you're cleaning, it should run when you put it back together. Good luck.

I'd like to see how your "custom control arms" turn out when you get them done.

For those that may be following this thread... I have gotten my new tires on the car and the tracking problem has went away. So I can only chaulk it up to different size tires and different tread designs. I currently have 250/60 R14 tires on the car. I guess having a 215 series tire compounds the tracking problem due to the larger contact patch. FWIW....

Victor, As for the gas tank sending unit, it can be removed while the tank is in the car. Just use a screwdriver to remove the holding ring, and it'll all pop right out. As for the camber issue, there are a few ways to correct this. The cheapest is to replace the control arm bushings with an adjustable cam-type bushing. They usualy run about $80-$100 for the set (front) and about the same for the rear. The next way would be to buy camber plates for the top of the strut towers. MSA has some now that are $100 for a front set and $100 for a rear set. These 2 ways will give you up to 1-1/2 * of adjustment. You'll also hear about people that have slotted out the mounting holes where the strut mounts into the tower. I don't like this option personally. Or you can hunt down some stock springs and replace the whole thing.

Anybody have any good ideas or tips on removing the carbon build up in the combustion chamber and ports of a head? I'm trying to clean up my E31 head and I need to remove the carbon build up on it. I have tried a wax/grease remover (like PrepSol) which works, but it takes lots of rubbing and lots of time. Plus I can't reach very well into the tight areas. I know a screwdriver would work but I'd prefer not the scratch up the chambers. I guess I could always take it to a shop and have them dip it, but that would cost money I don't have right now. Any DYI tips or suggestions?

Anybody see this Rally Clock for the Z's on Ebay? If it still works, it'd be a real find! Rally Clock

Here is a picture of the horn button. Sorry the pictures aren't better quality. Also, the wiper motor and the Turbine wheels have been sold. Thanks.

Here is a picture of the skid pan.

The skid pan is from a 280Z and fits underneath the engine over the front cross member. This one is painted white and has had a few bends along the edges, but has been straightened out. I'll be taking some pictures of all the items listed above tonight. Then I'll post a few later.

Here is a picture of the wheels on my car.

thepenguin99, The plastic ring on the inside has 3 hairline cracks in it, but it is still solid and it will hold fine on the steering wheel. It also has 2 small tears along the fake seam in the vinyl on the front side. This is the horn button I had on my car until I got a better one. beandip, I don't have that magazine, but I'll post some pics of the wheels tomorrow. Although, it looks like you and mperdue will have to fight over them....

So here is a list of the things I NEED to get rid of: 1 set of 280Z tail lights - $40 Skid pan for 280Z - $25 280Z Horn button - $ 15 240Z Horn button - $20 240Z steering column cover - $10 240Z Glove box (interior paper box) - $45 240Z wiper motor - $35 240Z Speedometer - $35 240Z Tach - $35 240Z Turnsignal/Ligth switch (early 240, both switches) - $50 240Z Ligth switch (late 240) - $40 Aluminum Louvers (black) - $65 Complete set of hatch Chrome Trim Strips - $25 Hatch Chrome Trim Strips (missing small pcs, some dents) - $10 Turbine Style wheels, set of 4 (w/ tires, no center caps) - $175 280ZX Headlight Buckets - $40/pair All prices are open for discussion, buyer pays shipping or you can come pick it up. All offers considered (but not neccessarily accepted). I really need to get rid of this stuff and I know someone out there can use it, so make me an offer I can't refuse! Otherwise, it all goes out on ebay. Pictures of any items are available.

kmack, came from the last job I had working at an research facility testing engines and transmissions. One of the other techs, Buz (now a very good friend of mine), started calling me by my last name (which I don't like when people do that). So I told him to think of something better or call me by my first name. Being the stuborn arse that he is, he just started calling me 'kmack.' I actually kind of liked it. It's got a short and quick snap to it and it has stuck for the last 11 years. Kenneth Mack

Depends on what valve seats you currently have in the car. If you have the brass seats, then you'll need to replace them with the steel seats. I have an original motor for my '71 240 (1/71) that I'm rebuilding right now. I thought I would have to replace the seats on mine, thinking I had the brass ones. After pulling the valves, it turns out that I already have the steel seats in the head (E31). You just need to check and see what's in there already.

Many people have installed fuel cells into their cars (mainly for racing though). So it can be done, but there will be modifications that need to be made for it all to fit. And I'm not sure of the legallity for street use. I'd check with a few racing shops on that part of it. As for stock tanks, the gas tank is pretty much the same for all cars from '70-'76. (I sold a tank from a '76 280 for use in a '72 240 and it worked out fine for the guy.)

You should be able to buy just the bleeder nipples by themselves at any auto parts store. Short of that, Pegasus racing sells them. But you had better make sure that you can get the old broken one out of the wheel cylinder first. The last time I tried this, I ended up ruining the cylinder and had to buy a new one. If this happens and you have to buy a new one, make sure you get the correct one for you car. The rear wheel brake cylinders changed around '72 and the hard brake line enters into the cylinder from a different angle. There was a discussion on the email list a few days ago about the early cylinders being NLA. Just food for thought....

A good looking woman deserves to be looked at! It's like a compliment. And my goal in life is to become a "dirty old man!" They can get away with a lot more than I can right now.

An early Maxima engine will work in a Z (they are the same block), but keep in mind that a 280 is a 2.8L and the Maximas are a 2.4L If you're worried about "ancient parts", it won't take more than a few hundred $$ in parts to rebuild a 2.8L, and the lower ends on theses motors are all but indestructable.

I guess I shouldn't tell you guys that I have a pair of those sitting in a box not being used right now...:tapemouth

texasz, what are you looking for chassis-wise? I have a '76 280 rolling chassis that would be good for a resto.