kmack

I have had only one issue with them and it was a similar case. They shipped some parts to me last year but it went to an old work address that I quit some 6 years ago. They claimed it the last "ship to" address they had for me. I had specifically told to ship to my house (which hasn't changed in almost 9 years). I had also been receiving those periodical flyer mailings at my house. I couldn't see why they shipped to an old address. Luckily, I had contacted them when my package didn't arrive when they said and they told me where it had been shipped to. And fortunately, I still knew people at my old work that could help arrange for me to pick it up, even though it 25 miles out of my way to go get it. But I will continue to do business with them their prices are good (on most items) and they still have fairly good service with people that know and love the cars that we know and love. On a side note: I ordered a carpet set from Too Intense Restoration and they shipped me a seat apholstery kit! I had already finished my seats so this was of know good to me. They corrected the problem at no cost to me, but I still had to wait another week for my carpet to get in.

Not to go against the grain here, but if he wants to race the guy, it's his choice. At least he's planning on doing it at a track under a controlled environment and not out on the street. Based on the specs you provided on the Del Sol, even with the VTEC, you still might have a shot at winning, unless your tranny is not in good shape. Keep in mind that a stock 280Z can make 150 hp at the wheels! The specs listed for the Del Sol I assume are factory specs which are rated at the crank. You have to figure a 15-20% loss to through the drivetrain. The weight difference bewteen the 2 cars is alnost a wash. That leaves only the driver's experience and the condition of the auto tranny. If it slips too much while shifting, you'll probably lose. But then again, if this other kid is that stupid about his car, then he probably can't shift either! Hell, he may even think shifting from low1 to low2 to drive is what makes a standard! PrOxLaMuS©, I think you have a pretty good shot to beat this person. My 240Z makes 127 hp at the wheels. I know I could easily beat the base Del Sol and give a VTEC a run for their money! A 280 has another 20-25 hp on tap. Good luck, man. As for everyone else, I know I'll get a few flames for my comments, but hey, that's racing!

As long as the spacers do not change the overall center line of the wheel with respect to the orignal car's stock wheel center line, then you will be fine running a wheel spacer. If the spacer pushes the wheel centerline out past the stock center line mark, then you start putting undue stress on the wheel bearings. The amount of stress is dependent on how far outwards the wheel's center line ends up.

I had 215/60/R14 Yoko's on once with no problems. I currently have 205/65/R14 Falkens on my car with lowered springs and I have no issues either.

If it won't go into gear with the engine running, but will with the engine turned off, then the problem is in your clutch. Either you have no pressure from the master cylinder or the slave cylinder is leaking. Try bleeding the clutch system and see if that helps. If not then look at the slave cylinder (mounted on the tranny bellhousing) first.

Well I just got my tank back from Gas Tank Renu Service for the warranty. Big kudos to them for fixing my tank with no cost to me what-so-ever! They sent my tank to Michigan (home office) to have all the old Renu process baked out. The tank was then checked over to make sure no repairs were needed. This process took almost 3 weeks. Then my tank was shipped back to Houston to have the Renu process put back on my tank, and then it was shipped to me. Total down time was about 4 weeks. Not the greatest, but I didn't have to pay any shipping costs at all. Only 2 downsides to this (besides the down time) - 1) They kept my drain plug. No big deal really, it's only a $2-$3 part. 2) They kept the o-ring seal for the sending unit. Not a big deal either, I needed a new one anyway, just wish I had known during the wait. Other than those issues, I would fully and continually recommend the use of Gas Tank Renu's services to anybody with an old or new car. They make a good product and if something does happen to it, they stand by their warranty, no questions asked! Btw, they mark every tank they do with an ID tag. Mine now has had 2 tags!

Well I just got my tank back from Gas Tank Renu Service for the warranty. Big kudos to them for fixing my tank with no cost to me what-so-ever! They sent my tank to Michigan (home office) to have all the old Renu process baked out. The tank was then checked over to make sure no repairs were needed. This process took almost 3 weeks. Then my tank was shipped back to Houston to have the Renu process put back on my tank, and then it was shipped to me. Total down time was about 4 weeks. Not the greatest, but I didn't have to pay any shipping costs at all. Only 2 downsides to this (besides the down time) - 1) They kept my drain plug. No big deal really, it's only a $2-$3 part. 2) They kept the o-ring seal for the sending unit. Not a big deal either, I needed a new one anyway, just wish I had known during the wait. Other than those issues, I would fully and continually recommend the use of Gas Tank Renu's services to anybody with an old or new car. They make a good product and if something does happen to it, they stand by their warranty, no questions asked! Btw, they mark every tank they do with an ID tag. Mine now has had 2 tags!

Might be my memory failing, but I thought that the ZX distributors had a small, black (in color), sealed box that contained some of the electrical stuff for the ignition mounted on the side of the distributor. It's been a long time since I've actually looked at a ZX engine, so I may be wrong here. Check out this site, look under item 7 - ignition. You'll have to scroll down a bit, but there is a picture of the black box I'm talking about. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Anybody else, have a better clue of what's going on here?

I laughed my arse off with these: "Dear Sir, We at Garrett Turbo are most honored and happy that you selected our turbo as part of the performance package for this fine racer. We take pride in our product and we believe that our turbos, like this fine racer, are the best in the market. Therefore, we would like to offer you a substantial sum of "sponsorship" money. The only thing we ask is to "Please removed our company sticker from the windshield!" Thank you From the Chairman and CEO, Garrett Turbo." "Hi my name is Chris Davis and I work in the R&D department at American Honda Motor Corp. We at American Honda just wanted to express to you how much we enjoy seeing Honda enthusiasts like yourself express themselves through their cars. We think that by creating a mass production car just like your car that we can be considered number 1 amongust the "POS" cars that have been created. Even if you don't take us up on our offer we hope you'll continue driving pieces of s*&t like this car and always wear your helmet for your reputation sake cause heaven forbid anyone ever sees you driving this car."

landmizzle, If you have an air compressor, just run down to Wally-Mart or Harbor Freight and buy one their spray guns (less than $40). You'll get a pretty good paint job out of those. That's what I've used so far and I've no problems or bad comments about the paint on my car.

Also, check out mperdue's site. Has the name and codes of the colors along with a few picture samples. http://www.utdallas.edu/~perdue/paintcodes.html

Here are some things from the ad that just don't make sense: What is a "model 296"? "No visible rust", because it's hidden under the floor mats.... "No damage to seats or carpet." What's with the tan deck carpet, then? "A/C not working properly....Everything works." Need I say more? "It will need brake work....he assured me that the engine and transmission where strong and in perfect working condition." How did he find this out if he couldn't drive the car? "...a few minor repairs will have this car looking as good as the day it came from the Datsun dealer." Oh, and replacing floor pans on Z's is such a typical job now that it's not considered major anymore? "Also included with this auction are 2 rims with snow tires." That's a very bad sign right there. The fact that it had a set of snow tires and hasn't been driven since '85! That's scary! So much for being "garage kept and babied from day one." Damn, listen to me And I didn't even go look at the thing!

If the dent is in the middle of the tank near the drain plug, then get a spare drain plug and rig it up so that you can connect a slide hammer to it. Install it into the tank, then pull the dent out. Other than that, a radiator/gas tank repair shop could get it out.

WOW!!! When I posted this morning, there weren't any bids. Now there have been 20 and the reserve is even met! Are these bidders serious?

The solvents and propellants in spray cans are designed to make drying time minimal for the paint. So by the time the atomized paint actually hits the surface, it's almost dry! Regular automotive paints are designed to go on wet and stay wet long enough to let the paint "flow" over the surface. Thus allowing the smooth surfaces you see on nice paint jobs. It all gets down to what you level of nice is. I sprayed the tank and tail panels on a motorcycle once with a spray can. Turned out fairly nice, but I had low humidty levels, a constant temp. and a very clean area to paint in. That helped. But it still wasn't as good as the 2nd motorcycle I did with a spray gun. That one came out like glass.

If it has a fusible link set up like the earlier cars and it had blown, then he wouldn't even be able to turn it over. On the early cars, if the fusible link blows, the entire electrical system is shut down. Been there, done that....

Unfortunately, there are not many ZX owners here on this site. Except for ZmeFly. :classic: But since the engines are somewhat similar.... Three things you need to check for: fuel, spark, air. You mention you have no spark so I assume you've checked for fuel also and that is ok. I've heard that the little black boxes on the distributors can just up and quit. That would be the first place I'd look. You might try to get in contact with a local Z club or find someone that has another ZX Turbo. See if they will let you borrow a known good distributor to swap onto your car. If it runs after the swap, then there is the problem. Sorry I can't be of much help after this point, I'm mainly a carb kind of guy.

I can't even begin to explain it, you just have to see it... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2432601336

The small pictures shown under the user name is called an Avatar. On the Main (front) page, you'll see a box labeled "Personal Menu" with an "option" listed below that reads "User CP." This is your User Control Panel. Click on that link. When you get to that page, you'll see a bar of links (mine are in blue) about a 1/4 way down. Look for a link called Edit Options. Click on this. At the bottom of this page, you'll see a box called Other Options. In it will be a link for setting/changing your Avatar. Follow the directions and you're set.

Check your local NAPA auto parts store. They carry the 5/8" fuel rated hose.

Thanks for the hint Daniel. My gauge reads almost to Full after filling up, but drops very quickly once headed down the road. But it will sit just above empty for almost 100 miles! Since my tank is out being "Renu"-ed right now, I'll head home and see if I can adjust it some.