kmack

lordbiotree, Houses are wired different than vehicles. It's an AC vs DC thing. (Rock on!) Anyway, on any car, red will be positive and black will be ground. Just follow like the connections on your battery. There is no nuetral either. Make sure you don't have any black wires connected to red wires on your car, otherwise you may need a lot of new fuses.

Just run really quickly...

I agree with Victor, double check all your fuses, in fact do a continuity test on all of them. This is the only true way to check them. Also (and if it's not the fuses), I've seen the contacts inside the switches go bad due to high restance. What happens is the plastic contacts inside the switch heat up and melt and don't make contact anymore. I rebuilt a headlight switch on a '73 about 4 months ago. The running lights would work, but the headlights would not come on. You could shake the switch and they would flicker but not stay on. The little spring loaded plastic contact had melted. Easy fix, you just have to get inside the switch box (on the stalk) to get to it. Same thing happens on the turn signal switch. Btw, the contacts on my turn signals are so worn, that if you don't purposely push the signal arm all the way to the stop, they won't work. No half-assing my turn signals!

HEY!!! That looks like you took a picture of my fuse block before I fixed it! Same big gaping hole! The JB Weld will work , but there is a trick to keeping it in place while it sets up: Mix the stuff up and then let it sit for a bit before you put it in place. Let it get a little like a paste. Otherwise, you'll end up rolling the fuse block over from side to side to keep the stuff in place (it will want to flow out due to gravity) for the next few hours.

The fill hole will be located around the middle of the tranny about half way up the side. It is plugged with what looks like a regular pipe plug with a square head on it about 3/4" square. Fill until the fluid just begins to run out. And make sure the tranny is level when filling it up.

Ok, so if the "early" cars had the long pigtails, then how come my '71 Series I has the short ones on it? I even have the harness from a '71 Series II car (1 month newer than mine) that has the same short pigtails! Both were melted to some degree. On the topic of switching dash harnesses, you would have to switch the entire harness for the car to use a '73 dash harness on an earlier car. I tried this once. The plugs are slightly different where they come out of the dash and hook up to the body harnesses. It could be made to work, yes, but it would take a little time. texasz, You can repair the fuse block. Do as Dtsnlvrs suggested and clean up the contacts in the switch. Then remove your fuse block from the car and carefully clean all the contacts in the plastic block. Then take some JB Weld and rebuild the melted area of the fuse block. On mine, the plastic had melted so bad that the contacts were actually hanging in mid-air. A little JB Weld here and a little there, a few days to let everything setup real good, and I haven't had an issue yet in the last year and a half.

I must be missing something, because I have no idea what you guys are talking about.....

Hey Steve, Do you sing it in that same voice, too? :classic:

Mexia (pronounced 'me-hia') is about 25-30 miles east of Waco. I bet you were even pronouncing it wrong, weren't you!:classic: Dead Roman, I wish you would have popped up a year or two ago. I was looking to have a few things done back then, but they all have paint on them and I don't have the funds for any thing now. But will keep you guys in mind for later projects.