Seppi72

I may have inadvertently covered up that wire when I re-wrapped all my harnesses several years ago (what a FUN time that was). In any case, I've decided to go with a fuse tap in the main fuse box on the 20 A FLASHER fuse, which is the only circuit in the box that is KEY-ON activated. Will use a 10 A fuse for my Retrosound Motor 4 radio, Vintage Air HVAC controller and Valentine One radar detector. Frankly, until yesterday I didn't know such a thing as a fuse tap existed. Ran across it when searching online how to hard-wire my radar detector. Really happy now that I swapped the OEM fuse box for an ATO-style one from Motorsport Auto.

It occurred to me today as I was reinstalling the dashboard (after 17 years) that because I have completely separate wiring for the Vintage Air HVAC system, I mighty just take the power intended for the OEM heater/blower and use that instead of finding a KEY-ON wire. Yes, I know that circuit is activated in the ig-switch's ACC position but because I don't have adolescents who will want to listen to the radio when the car is not running, that might be a good option.

Not hard as I recall. Except for the clock, the overlays would slide over or under the needles to .get into position. I think I had to pull the hands off the clock bu they went back on easily. Because there is a reputable supplier offering them - Z Car Depot - you could email or call them for information. They've been very good getting back to me with my questions.

I have the 1972 body and engine FSMs, which I've had since 1972 (purchased from BRE and now installed in 3-ring binders with each page lovingly protected), but the body one doesn't have anywhere near the level of detail as some of the illustrations that have been presented in this thread. I'll check out what's on the site.

I got those on eBay back in December of 2010 from a fellow named Jason Ellis (jasmaster1@yahoo.com). I don't know if he is still active there but here is a currently active listing there for the gauge overlays (https://www.ebay.com/itm/116754738195?_skw=240Z+gauges&itmmeta=01K6VECE8NHA8V1JRWG7KECTFX&hash=item1b2f1fec13:g:HYIAAeSw8fdosIdf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f7RDWuP4ip3L0xi8Epcs3MGzRnIDxeRpwRTiJTFo%2FyXhMMsfddLn9Ap%2BvCn%2FGIN7AmIPoYfEWRqx3LB%2Fb6vtgs1LiOt5M%2FxbtHCoHbKvaiVhw88gQ%2FXqNsLGyyDOluqQraCdGuUIvEXpINFE6kLubse8%2BlZzyix9Z0uWrrXO5tkWb9pzBDEuh0sjE%2FAYFzMlq8Eno8bfz8eo23vQRsM6D91r88a95CHj9SIRMV4k31WB5gT629KVQ75UisBeYw%2FCU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9zkse62Zg). I just saw that Z Car Depot also has these overlays on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/333353236584?_skw=240Z+gauge+overlays&itmmeta=01K6VERGB27HD9RGDN98R029CQ&hash=item4d9d66b868:g:IT0AAOSwKA5bx61X&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7wRbXJooQ7dodz55p%2FpfL3%2FDnI4KnIpEfg3F3lVeIRyEHeGgeVSHLqgbLDNDlk6GrqecMFTnyKkJMHxl2%2B5udEItKajJaOrn%2FBoiCSmcgSJn4Z6nYMS7V4iBywuzLaKtHbfHwXjdriTm7vfNRE4B4%2FIozubXeyBv1%2FUg%2By1bjHqNT4EMrXUYBymvBGdZxGrJ5CgNM8HF7LJ7MMqeYqRiTSXWaimnbZLBgGt%2BIsW5Uic4skEvPTSgm69RN3BRwRm0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CF4u62Zg). I hope that helps you.

Big milestone today: the dashboard is now back in the car since it was removed in 2008 at the beginning of this project. Lots of 'field mods' but that's the stuff that builds pride of ownership. Hard to believe that 17 years of "just plain life" have passed by. But, I'm on a roll now and I hope to be back on the road by spring.

I don't know where you guys find these detailed diagrams but I'm sure glad that you have and share them.

OK, without the car actually being assembled for ready reference, I thought that might be a possibility.

As I was working on the car today, it occurred to me that perhaps the best KEY-ON signal I could hope for in the engine bay would be one coming from the alternator. After all,it will only have an output when the car is running. I have an internally-regulated 70 amp, 280ZX alternator so I won't be using the 1972 OEM voltage regulator. In fact, that location on the inner fender is where I'm clustering all the relays for headlights, electric cooling fan, etc. What do you folks proficient in S30 electrics think of this as a possibility?

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

To quote a favorite Stars Wars character, "Meesa no lie."

I agree with you, Captain, and patcon that I should avoid the B/W associated with the VR and coil as there will probably be enough issues with the electrics once I get everything back together and try starting the car. Running another 16 AWG wire into the engine bay isn't that big a deal. Excellent advice on an inertia switch, cgsheen1. Do you have a preferred brand and, perhaps more importantly, location for mounting such a device? I was once a passenger in a car that was forced head on into a concrete median barrier by an aggressive driver, thankfully the impact was at low speed, and its inertia switch operated. I recall the driver having to reach down near the E-brake pedal to reset it so we could continue on to our destination.

Thanks a million, SteveJ. You've saved me hours of trying to track things down in various wiring harnesses. Now, I can just tap into the FLASHER wire coming out of the fuse box and activate the relays for the AC controls, the AC trinary switch (in the engine bay) and the two DRLs (Daytime Running Lights). I'll probably modify things to use the fog lamp wires to reach the DRLs. But, my goodness, there are a LOT of connectors coming out of the dash. I'm glad I have another '72 that's still together to use as a guide when my eyes get crossed trying to decipher the FSM wiring diagram. Does anyone have an idea of the location of that inline fuse for the electric fuel pump? I added a NISMO pump and it's hooked up to the appropriate wires on the rear of the body harness but I'd be well served to know where that fuse is... just in case.

Got the foam and my vents now look like those in Patcon's pix above. Looks like good sealing all around (as much as can be expected considering you can't seal at the pivot points), yet, when I suck on the vent outlets, there is air sneaking past the seals. I guess I'll just have to see if it's annoying when the car is back on the road.

I'm sure this info is buried in dozens of topics over the years, but I'm wondering is anyone has a list of all the items that become "hot" when the ignition is ON. I'm particularly interested in wires already within the engine bay so I don't have to run yet another wire through a new hole in the firewall. I'm pretty good at reading wiring diagrams but figuring out this info from my 1972 FSM or the laminated, color diagram I've gotten from www.classiccarwiring.com is quite another matter.