webdawg1

Have not posted anything for a while....working on the house quite a bit lately...(Long story) thought I would throw out just a simple little spreadsheet to help track the progress with part ordering and that sort of stuff. Change the headings to what ever you would like to put in there to suit your own needs. Kind of helps when you have all your part numbers, and other miscellaneous data all in one place when you go by the dealership to order parts...etc...etc. webdawg1 Parts Needed (Blank).xls

You might have them try P/N: 16578-N4710. I'm showing that boot as being applied from 05/77. If they are ordering P/N: (16578-N4200) or (16578-N4201) I can see why they are getting the one without the nipple....See enclosed pictures.... webdawg1 AFM to TB Hose.bmp

You might try on eBay. I see them listed on eBay all the time....Both with the nipple and without. Helps if you have the Zcar Microfiche CD so you can get the correct part numbers when you're talking to the dealerships..... webdawg1

So we talking about "Green Bamboo Shoots", "Wet Noodles" or just a good "Tongue Lashing" and or some good natured ribbing.... webdawg1

If you look at the bearing races on the hub assembly (Inner/Outer) you'll have your answer. Small bearing on the out side facing the inside. Larger one on the inside facing the outside. Think of it as looking something like this small =>[ ]<=Large. In other words there is ONLY one way they will fit.... and be correct. webdawg1

Here ya go....That should get you going in the right direction.... http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/ webdawg1

Will be needing the set to the right if you have a 240Z....I've got a set on hand.... webdawg1

For starters you'll probably want to download and printout the EFI Bible at the following url: http://www.72hours.net/~zcar/ Would also suggest you get a FSM (Factory Service Manual) if you don't have one, as the EFI Bible makes reference to certain sections/pages of the FSM. Troubleshooting cold/warm start issues starts on page 33 in the EFI Bible. Hope this gets you going in the right direction. EFI Bible is about 70+ something pages long..... webdawg1

TomoHawk, Actually a little bit of both....I spray 2-3 short bursts of Seafoam into the gas tank about once a month. (About 4-5 seconds each time) Every so often I'll take the air breather off and spray into the carb. Spray a little bit....big cloud of smoke, Spray a little bit....big cloud of smoke. May want to stay upwind of the smoke if you can (Cough...Cough) Seems to help out quite a bit...usually just have to prime and pull the rope and it starts right up.... webdawg1

I've been using Seafoam in my 2003 GMC pickup for 2-3 years now...purrs like a kitten!!!. About every six months I pour in a can right after I fill up the gas tank. Have not noticed any smoke while driving...etc...etc. Works real good in the lawnmower as well....now we're talking some SMOKE...... webdawg1

You talking about the half-shaft inboard nuts or the outboard nuts?? If it's the inboard nuts, I used about 2 or 3 long (read 6"-12" each) 3/4" extension bars and a big honking breaker bar so I was outside the wheelwell. That way you can get more room to operate and not skin up any knuckles... webdawg1

You might consider sending them off to the following: http:// www.jet-hot.com In other words you can kill two birds with one stone so-to-speak...they will media blast them as part of the prep process to coat them with the jet-hot coating coating of your choice. Will last a long...long time after getting coated...make your engine compartment cooler too..... webdawg1

I understand these folks can get the title for any car 1987 or older....No previous paperwork required.....Might help you guys/gals out some if you decide to JUMP ALL OVER THIS ONE..... Classic's Phone #888-870-8071 webdawg1

You might want to check into "Soda Blasting". It's not quite as bad...in terms of how it interacts with the metal during the blasting process. The soda itself breaks up into smaller pieces..... webdawg1

Have you given any thought to using "Stainless Steel" bolts/screws?? Never ever rust again that's for sure..... webdawg1

I found a picture in one of the forums that I cropped down some that might help a little. Shows the J-Bolt on the one end where you'll be making a 90 degree bend so it will conform to the bracket. Hardest part is getting the spot welds cut on the old straps where they attach to the bracket... webdawg1

Most definitely metal..... Appears to be approx. .045 thick according to my measurements. Double thick galvanized coating. Most have got hold of some of the "Good Stuff". I'm making mine (Tank Straps) up for a 1975 FI 280Z so they should be almost exactly/or dead-on for what you'll need. Have enclosed a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. Just put the end pieces on both sides of the strap, and spot-weld. On the other end, bend 90 degrees after you get your measurement for the J-bolt bracket. Drill your hole for the J-bolt either before or after it gets spot-welded to the bracket, your call on that point. webdawg1

Have access to a spot welder or know of a local company that has one handy? You can make your own set of straps. If your ends (part the J-bolt goes thru) are in pretty good shape, you can use trailer tie-down strapping material to make your own. It's within an 1/8" being the same width as the old strap I removed. Hell of a lot stronger also. According to the specs I turned up on the web it's rated at 4,000 plus pounds in tensile strength. So I'm really sure it will hold the weight of 15-17 gallons of fuel. Pretty straight forward to make. I've already got them cut and formed, but you may need to adjust the length. Use a spot weld cutter to remove the old straps from your ends (part the J-bolt goes thru) Clean them up after getting the straps off and then spot weld the new straps back together and back onto your ends and you're good to go. Paint or powder-coat to color desired and admire your work...I've got plenty of material on hand. You pay the postage via USPS priority mail and it's yours for the asking. Give me the measurments for your L/R straps and I'll make sure the material I have on hand will work for you. Measure from the J-bolt end where the J-Bolt goes thru. Sort of like an L but flipped/rotated 180 to the left.... webdawg1

Anyone know the correct length for the bolts that hold the EGR valve on the FI Intake manifold. (See reference picture attached. Area is outlined in white) With just the EGR blank plate installed on the mainfold I'm showing them to be 8mm x 1.25 x 10mm. So with a EGR valve installed I'm thinking the bolts are maybe 20-25mm long?? webdawg1

Yeah, that's what I was thinking....that they (The bolts) would be the same for all model years....I've seen stranger things....small changes from year to year...etc...etc. Just wanted to check and see if anyone had different size bolts on their car...and if so...why. webdawg1

How about "Ghost Stripes" ?? Use a shade of yellow just slightly darker/lighter than your "Yellow" The effect is quite interesting..... Would have to agree with everyone else. Stripes on the airdam would be a bit much..... webdawg1

Just a quick question about the valve cover bolts....I'm showing a size of 6mm x 1.0 x 45mm on a 75 280Z. Are they the same size for all model years?? (I.E. - In other words are they the same size from 70-78 or would they be a different size depending on model year) Seems to me they would be exactly the same size for all model years.....anyone want to measure and confirm this....Switching over to "Allen Head" stainless steel bolts and I was just kind of wondering..... webdawg1

Have a address/telephone #/website url for American Stiches. Looks really nice to me.... webdawg1

Here's some more spreadsheets I currently have done that can be posted for general use by all concerned....Remember to make any changes to the spreadsheet(s) based on your model year (I.E. - 240, 260, 280) as there will be "some" differences between model years...but for the most part should be pretty accurate...It also helps if you have the Z Microfiche CD-Rom so you'll know what to change in the various spreadsheets for your model year... webdawg1 Fiche 42-1 Water Pump & Fan Belt L28E (From Dec '74).xls Fiche 71-1 Clutch Disc, Clutch Cover & Drawal Lever.xls

It's really not that hard.... When loading up the OS (Operating System) all you really need is the CD key off your XP CD. XP should pick up 98-99% (Perhaps 100%) of all your devices in your computer. You might have to download a driver for one or two devices, but other than that it pretty much painless. You've got more than enough help from all us gear heads to walk you through the process..... webdawg1