richard1

is somebody could be more explicit about the year, the tailgate, the doors or what? Did you discovered that it is the exact same profile? I would appreciate more details about what to search for and suppliers.

I have to come to evidence that with all the good care I gave them since I owned my Z, the desert climate is making its toll...........mostly on the driver's side. It is mostly dry and hard. Who make the best reproductions and are they a pain to replace? Which interior moldings have to be removed to do the job? Is there a particular profile for the 72 Z and do they snap on place or need to be glued?

some of you will remember that I complained very often about point sets burning at every 200 miles. The last batch of 6 sets I bought from Rock Auto went straight to the garbage can no matter I paid the hefty price for them because they are cheaper built than ever and some were for single point distributors and not dual points set up. The good news is I now buy from a Carquest local store that can provide me with Worldpac product made in Japan instead of Mexico. I am running the same point set for more than 300 miles without any sign of trouble about premature wear......this is pretty good news. Furthermore, with Worldpack, a point set is about four dollars when you have now to pay 10 bucks for only one point set from Standard Brand distributors as NAPA. My car runs far better and I don't have anymore this premature point set issue but I will keep buying the rotors and distributor caps from Standard because the are still the best in the secondary market with real brass alloy contact points. So, it seems we have to keep in the learning process how to find the best info to always keep these 40 yo classics on the road on a daily basis without problem and keep them reliable in our very harsh desert climate. As far as I am concerned, I have no issue at all but I have to say that preventive maintenance is the key to keep our first generation Zs on the road and being reliable for those who have fully stock original as mine.

Rock Auto parts are garbage as Standard Red Box brand and furthermore they don't even know what they are selling: The come from Standard as two in the box and now they are packaged as only one at $11.00/piece. The Worldpack set is designed as a full contact without a hole in the middle.

I have been wizz off with my regular Napa store and furthermore it was the Napa warehouse in Las Vegas for problem related to being charged for a single point set in a box when there is supposed to be two in a box for A/T set ups. The manager was barely able to speak english and after I called back a week later, he just told me to forgot orders from Standard Brand products for my 72 240 Z. Yeah, it is quite an insult for Napa having quite a distributor in my region with no will to find why Standard in Virginia confirmed every JP7p-2 always come in a set of two in each boxes. These people are so stupid and Standard brand no taking care of the problem that I switched to Worldpack with better ignition point sets at a better price since I have to change them at every 300 miles The product code is 22145-A5500 and manufactured in Japan

I discovered that there is an inner hard plastic ring covered with some kind of felt. The plastic ring was cracked from age and desert dry condition. I used Loctite 404 industrial glue to fix it the crack. The ball is back in the socket and works properly. Thanks for the archive reference who solve the problem.

I have the driver's side ventilator that came off of its socket and I cannot fit it back. Is there a trick to put it back in place and being movable?

Yes......I have the same part number but coming from MSA...........OEM Nissan for old Zs is outsourced to cheap manufacturers. I learned it with weather striping I sent back to Courtesy Nissan as "jobber" repros for the 72s.

Is it a rivet with a black screw in the middle you have already found somewhere to fit these holes and panels without enlarging the plastic finishers or the body holes? Your solution has merit as far as 38 YO plastic panels are prone to cracks and breaks and we need to be pretty careful.

After 38 years, we may all agree that the rear quarter plastic panels may not be as tight as new and squeaks may come from on the road. My car is original but it happened that I replaced some rivets with new repros sold by MSA but they don't feel to fit tight. Is there any remedy to the squeaks problem of the rear portion of the cabin. I have no problem at the front

most of us know that this little curved hose is not anymore available on the market and no repro has ever been produced. I finally found a solution. I bought a PCV valve hose and the curved section is the same. It is a perfect fit and a braided hose. Furthermore, I had enough remaining hose to replace all the short hoses of the emission hardware.

for a non restored 38 years old car and a lot of elbow grease to wax and maintain what is left of the original paint.

original radio face plate, antenna electric switch, stainless window trims, door lock mechanisms, antenna nut and plastic insulator, map light lense plate........just a few among others.

I use the electric pump only in summer time to keep enough volume in the bowls because of percolating problems over 100 degrees. In normal climatic condition, the mechanical pumps is never an issue.

in regards of my original post. Now, I know where to find 20wt oil and I have gone through the inspection of all major components by fellow members. I took the opportunity to clean the pistons and chambers, nothing was bent or scratched from misalignment, the needles were fine, throttle shafts and bushings are still tight with minimal play and the engine is responsive at start-up and acceleration as it should be. I know that one day, I will have to rebuild the carbs but for now it would be a waste of money because there is no other issues than the one mentioned in this tread. At 130K it is now an old car that needs a close scheduled maintenance and it is what it gets.

I never said the thermostat has any impact on the cold starting problem in cold weather but it helps these cold blooded engine to run warmer. The choke cables have never been an issue. As many archives have reported the oil grade seems very important as I have always used ATF. Yesterday, I cleaned up all the internal components of the dampers, pistons and removed the ATF oil and touched or adjust nothing else. i filled with 20W50 as recommended by posters on the archives. To conclude........I can tell you that the 20W oil has completely fixed the problem in many ways: it is clear that the fuel/air mixture has something to do with the oil viscosity in the carbs. Second, the thermostat keeps the engine at a higher temperature in climatic condition below 50 degrees for highway driving and stops......no more hesitations at pick up from a stop light in cold morning weather. Third, all spark plugs were clean.......it was not an issue about dirty plugs. Forth, Ignition points are gaped accordingly to the best performance settings for a 130K car and work fine as far as regular check and maintenance is provided which means every 500 miles Fifth, As an original unrestored car....oil change is performed at every 2K with Castrol 20W50 and nothing else. What I want to say is my classic Z is original, clean and healthy and is not a candidate to a restoration project of any kind.......furthermore I keep it "bone stock". It is not a trailer queen and I enjoy the drive in sunny Las Vegas or whatever it may rain. I am grateful to the archives and posters of this site who keep posting to provide us essential information as owners of the first generation Zs to keep them on the road on as reliable daily transportation as bone stock enjoyment. We are all car buffs but a first generation Z is not an easy task to be fully stock, reliable for daily driving and without add-ons as electronic ignition and some other hardware. I am privileged to own one of these fully original early models, fully dealer optioned including A/C and A/T.

I have never experienced this kind of problem before. We are about the 50 degrees range in Vegas and It is very hard to start when the engine is cold. When hot, everything is OK. I have a 195 degree thermostat for winter, the carbs work fine, the ignition system is perfect, the engine is responsive without any hesitation when warmed up. These L6 engines are real cold blooded even in summer but in winter even more. I read a lot of the archives about early Zs cold starting issues and one got my attention: I have always use ATF oil in these dome carbs without any problem until now. Some posters say they use 20W in the carbs for easier start-up in cold weather. So, I need some clues about what to use for these Hitachi carbs for cold start-up. They have never been rebuilt and are trouble free after more than 130K as is for the car that has never been restored and a complete original. Any suggestions?

buy "NAPA Standard Brand" points. You will have street performance and reliability if you have a full original unless you are full of modifications and updates. Mine is running fine but more frequent tuning if use as a daily driver. I will never go to electronic ignition. If points fails I can replace or adjust to go back home. Stay and stall with an electronic set up and call the werker to go home

it was the right profile and fits perfectly at the welding joints. You are a great member........your support has been greatly appreciated to keep an unrestored original as it is is......original

for the early Zs? I have one original oval 72 model in perfect condition. As far as i am concerned, it it the kind of repro I want but will they be sturdy aas the original ones?

I want to say a public Thank You to a fellow Canadian member who responded to my inquiry after searching for so many months for a piece of original inner hatch weatherstrip. It is the exact same profile and in perfect condition. My greatest appreciation to this member for his assistance (he knows who he is) in a very hard research to restore a not produced/reproduced anymore original weatherstrip profile for a never restored original car. I am happy I will be able to restore the original one from the welding joints at the threshold of the hatch. This community has something good......perseverance........ somebody will listen to help you about something out of common sense when you want to keep an unrestored original as it can be possible after 37 years. Some post replies are frustrating by not understanding the limited availability of some parts to maintain a complete original Z specimen to the real state of the art. I conclude by saying thank you for the support of some that searched as hell to help me and those who tried to help me for a so menial thing as a piece of weatherstrip to fix my need.

Save me the inner hatch weatherstrip so I will stop to bother everybody for always the same thing

as original, how many at the front and at the rear? Is it possible that some models have been removed originally from the dealer and some may still have them? It just came to my attention today looking at some original literature where I see one towing hook on the left side but I also have a cable hook on the right side. It is the same basic set up at the rear where I have a cable hook and a towing hook. Is there any documentation if some of these hooks were used just for securing the cars on cargo ships back in the beginning of the first batch of S30s I am very curious because I have four hooks on mine.

It worth's looking closely if you want to sell me a piece or the entire weatherstrip no matter the overall condition. Please, send me an email and your phone number: richarddube@cox.net

of the 260 weatherstrip you sent me. The shape is mostly the same but from the picture, it seems that there is some metal at the clipping groove to the body.....am I correct? The one on my 72 is just soft rubber and the flat top piece is 1/2" wide. Some months ago, I found a 280 at a local scrap yard and I removed the weatherstrip. It is the exact profile now sold as repro OEM by Nissan that unfortunately doesn't match the early s30s. Vintage Rubber will eventually produce the exact profile as per the owner but they are just at the design stage of the extrusion mold. They are well aware of the problem with the OEM Nissan fit-all generic part.