panchovisa

Stewart-Warner

Cold on the way guys, was -18 F in Minneapols this morning. Got to know that cold follows snow!

mperdue, I believe that the material is a phenolic plastic (paper and resin) similar to what might be used on pots and pans handles. Check with a speciality lumberyard (exotic woods , etc), or an industrial suppy house, or electric motor rebuilders. The isolators are solid mounts, but they isolate heat conduction to the carb.

From my days as a ski bum in Jackson Wyoming I remember a graffiti war on the toilet walls in the bars between cowboys and hippies. My favorite was "Hippies are proof that cowboys _uck sheep". I believe it was written by a cowboy (because it was in response to a hippies jab at cowboys). Kind of makes you wonder what he thought he was saying.

Carl, "& played with the glue", now it all makes sense:):)

I think the MG-TC was the first post war afforable import sports car.

I've never seen that stuff look good anywhere (kinked, wrinkly, loose). How about putting the box back on the shelve and covering it with a shop rag? Or sell it on e-bay (people buy anything).

Jayru, you could also build a respectable 2.4 engine (big valves, minor porting, tuned header, upgade ignition, better cam) and then add a nitrous oxide set up to the tripple carb manifold (a "wet" set up would be best) for that extra 40-80 hp when needed. I haven't seen any NOS set up in our galleries (possibly concidered too "ricer?), but I'm sure if you contacted some NOS manufactures they could set you up. Some homework on 5-speed transmissions and rear end ratios (LSD), and final drive ratios, would also be bennefical no matter what powerplant you use.

Carl, so that means its not dead?

What ever happened to our Z car of the month. Did Scott and Vicky retire the award:)

Dead Roman, I will be running mine on the street and the track. I guess John will be testing his out only on the track. Their are a couple other serious racers on this site that I want to do some testing. They will be legal (everything is in US, don't know about Germany, Oz, etc.) and will also benefit lowered street cars, especially those that are lowered running larger diameter tires (the angles get worse with larger diameter tires). Can'y wait to go to SEMA show in Sin City!

The material on my prototype is just 1018 which I will be nickel plating. The production parts will be stainless steel. I got way to many hours and burned up cutters in this, the production version will be much less labor intensive. Congradulations again, I will be getting in touch with you when test version is ready (please be patient, this stuff doesn't happen over night).

BINGO, Good work John! It attaches just as you figured. The most important aspect of the design is that it is MEANT to lower the outer end of a-arm. You didn't identify this as desireable, but you did identify it! No other intermediate pieces are needed, the "key-ways" keep it located once short pin is installed. This will correct the "camber gain/loss curve" back to approximately what it was before lowering the car (and inner a-arm pivots). During hard cornering the loaded side of car will have bottom of strut move farther out from static position (tire will lean in more from fixed upper mount) and the unloaded side will have bottom of strut move closer in from static position (tire will lean out more from fixed upper mount). The net effect will be tires better cambered for maximum cornering, and less undesireable camber change on one/two wheel bumps/rebounds. Adjustable toe-in/out is 2nd most important feature. I am running 335/35ZR17 tires which are about 13.5 inches wide. I definately want them pointed in a straight line!!! You know that sometimes race cars take a tweak (crunch!) now and then don't ya Crash. Fine adjustment of camber/track width is least important feature. It also allows use of stock a-arms and urethane bushings which most people have already. Since it is a bolt on "camber compensating/correcting device" it should be race legal in all classes that allow such devices. Besides you can't weld onto strut housing because it's ductile iron (brazing just doesn't cut it for high performance suspenion parts anyway!) The only other way to realy get adjustable toe is custom a-arms with rod ends (expensive, and don't correct geometry problems from lowering). The ecentric bushings that some use only function by binding up the pivot points un-naturally and throwing other things out of wack.

Tom, first paragraph mix of right and wrong. (1) dead on (2) are you sure your wrong? (3) figure it out and your almost home. Remember I said they were photos of a portion of complete design. Whats missing? (4) see my gallery to see my sway bars.

The first paragraph is of course correct. I wish it was everything you said in the second paragraph, but it's not. Sorry.

Victor, your on the right track.

Carl, nope. The winner will have to give a complete answer to questions in first post (without missing anything, or adding features that don't exist) all in one post.

Carl, two of three. But your missing something.

Yes, but what are ALL the things it does?