SteveJ

Both relays should be on the passenger side at the kickpanel. There is another thread on this board with PDFs of the Nissan documents for this.

Fix/replace known bad components. Then check your results again. Edit: I forgot to add this. Pull the alternator and have it tested. If it's bad, too, you could ruin your new battery.

The factory modification attached between the alternator and voltage regulator to pull power from the yellow wire. There are two relays for the fuel pump. One is energized by the starter. The other is energized by the yellow wire from the alternator. Diagnostics: 1. Bench check the relay coils and contacts. Energize each relay coil with a 12 VDC source and verify the contacts are closed. 2. Verify you have voltage at the correct terminals in the car. You have to check this while starting the car and while the car is running. Note: If key is in the ON position with the engine not running, you will NOT have voltage at the fuel pump.

To elaborate further on what Pete wrote, you should put a fuse between the solenoid and the oil pressure switch, as well. You put the fuse as close as you can to the positive side of the battery to protect as much wire as possible, since the chassis is grounded on the negative.

This was a lot easier. I guess the young guys have to do things the hard way first.

If you plan on keeping the car for a while and don't use AC, get rid of it. If the components are in good shape, I know someone in the area who might be interested in the system.

Let's go over some of the details. 1. How old is your battery? 2. Do you know how to use an ohmmeter? If so, have you checked for continuity between the battery negative and chassis and between the alternator E terminal and the chassis and between the battery negative and alternator E terminal? 3. Use the 72 FSM and look through the EE section. Test output according to the FSM and tell us what you get. 4. How old is the alternator? It could be on its last legs. 5. Do you know how to use an ammeter? If so, is the battery discharging when the car is off? What is the current? (Make sure all lights are off, including the dome light and glove box light.)

That sounds like a very reasonable price to me.

Mark me as interested, too.

Views do not equate to knowledge, and your attitude is unlikely to get you help in the future, either. I did direct you to other forums where you might be more likely to find the information you seek. Fortunately, this forum does have an ignore feature, and I will be more than happy to add you to it as of this moment. Good luck.

Of course, Black Gold is at the pinnacle... A History Of Nissan Z Commercials As Ranked On A Scale Of John Oates Mustaches

Kind enough? Would you have preferred people to have given you free & wrong advice? Most of the people on here own S30s, cars that didn't need power steering. There are many other forums available such as zcar.com or zdriver.com where you will find more S130 owners.

To end the tangent, the OP has a 77. The constant power is just for the memory, so it will not draw much power. As for the draw of the head unit, look in the owner's manual for the unit and find its rated draw. Remember that fusing should be rated to protect the wires, not the components. If the draw of the head unit is too much, add a relay to one of the accessory circuits. (See Relays Simplified | Fiddling With Z Cars for information on connecting the relay.) For the switched power, you can then tap off the battery as Tomohawk suggested, run that wire to an inline fuse and through the relay to the head unit. Be sure the select the appropriate gauge wire. If you don't know how, ask.

Cigarette lighter

Please give all of the wire colors. I don't care about pin numbers. I cannot trace a pin number to a wire easily.

I did the same as Guy, but I used vaseline to hold the O-ring in place. Just make sure your fuel level is low enough before you start so you don't dump fuel on the ground. Even jacking up the front end would help for this.

Do me a favor. Post the wire colors that you jumpered together. That way I can look at the wiring diagrams and figure out if you did it right.

If you look at the wiring diagram, you'll see some differences between the auto and manual. You might be able to trace some of the different wires.

The fuel pump is easy to find. Just look at the gas tank behind the passenger side rear wheel. If you choose to add one, make sure it is a low flow pump. Carburetors don't need 30 PSI.

It took some effort to figure it out. I used the wiring diagrams from the 73, 75, & 81, the 75 and 81 FSMs, and the old writeup on zhome.com as references.

Conventional wisdom says it's an improvement. I can't tell you how much. As for the fuel pump relay issue, the power for the relay coil comes off the yellow wire. Somewhere on here, someone posted the wiring for the Nissan change. If I could find it, I could tell you where you need to look for wire. Meanwhile, are you sure you have an electric fuel pump?

That would be correct.

No, no, no. Don't rewire the fuel pump relay to the ignition. You want it to cut off if the engine stalls. That means using a diode in the right place or using an oil pressure switch.

I really have to meet you sometime.

Okay, let's move away from pin numbers and focus on wire colors. It took me a while, but I think I have it figured out. The White & Yellow wires should be jumpered together. The Green & White/Black wires should be jumpered together. The Black wire doesn't need to be jumpered. The Green/Red wire doesn't need to be jumpered. See if that works for you.