72 Datsun 240z

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

I didnt posted any guide. Lets do a leak down test first.

I guess after reading this, i believe it's time for me to find a compressor and do a leak down test properly as last resort before opening the engine.

This came with its champion radiator.

Looking for a 1.1 bar replacement radiator cap. Anyone?

Its a pitty as the car is driveable but has this problem during traffic jams.

Why would i sell the car. Its a matter of getting it fixed or not?

Well no good mechanics in Panama. Car temperature reaches barely past half of the thermostat and 3/4 with thermostat. My problem is still under heavy traffic when engine starts to misfire. So i guess we will need to tackle this problem systematically.

My 72 240z has no emmission crap. All of these parts were removed by the first mechanic. We dont need that crap in Panama. Last mechanic doesnt show up. Just giving excuses to finish his work. Nevertheless, he did capped the PCV valve and tuned the carburetors in such a way. He argued that plugs 3 and 4th were getting fouled because oil was getting through the damaged pcv valve to the engine. This kind of logic makes no sense. I'm not a mechanic, but I'm not dumb. I'm planning on installing the new PCV valve this Saturday and checking how many turns he gave to each nozzle. To me the car lacks some punch. Any advise on how to tackle this issue and forget about this mechanic would be positive. Im also doing a leak down test on all the 6 cyl and draining the radiator to see if there is any blockage.

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

Maybe i should try to do the radiotor test removing the thermostat to see if the water flows or not!

Long story short, the mechanic i was using in Panama was a total mess. He charged me usd400 for adjusting the carbs, blocking the pcv valve and a bunch of crap such as removing the thermostat and else. The thing is today i installed a mishimoto 167 degrees thermostat, filled up the radiator with water and crancked the engine. I started hearing a strange whistle coming from the water pump and noticed that the water did not flow even accelerating the car. Isnt this strange? Water pump dead or blocked radiator? VID-20250622-WA0013.mp4

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

But whats wrong with rockauto? Arent these ones good shock absorbers? Other suppliers are more expensive.

Motorsport is ok. But you have to call them by phone to get your order sorted out. Isnt Rockauto easier or are these different quality shocks?

https://zcardepot.com/products/kyb-front-shocks-struts-240z-260z-280z?srsltid=AfmBOoriVW4h-_3WRprZ41sp8sF_qxqnJ0CDZWmNcWfHwZ4lcc32N5s1 Will these one fit my 1972 240z? I would like to change the complete set. For certain both front shocks are worn. Is there a better supplier or is this one ok?

Im just asking for good quality absorbers ths has nothing to do with the vapor lock condition leading to rough acceleration.

Mechanic is still at Orlando. Meanwhile i need to sort the shock absorber issue. KYB?

Shop changed the motor oil in my engine yesterday and noticed both front shock absorber were worn. Any reputable and recommended brand for the 4 shocks? Any additional parts i should get?

My 1972 240z is rarely used as it is not in perfect driving conditions. It misfires when temperature rises at idle during traffic jams. However, i need to change the engine oil. Should i purchase for 5 liters of 10w30? Or is there something better for this engine?

What i meant is that i used to rev the car from 800 rpm to 8000 when i finished driving and parking the car back. I usually dont do it that often. Anyways i found a spare used pcv valve to replace the old one which according to mechanic was making plugs 4 and 3 foul due to oil. He capped this one and tuned the carbs so i could drive the car this way. I was wondering if i should keep testing the car this way? Or should i wait untila new pcv valve arrives.

I only rev it up after driving for 30 mins once parked.

Panama regulations does not require such emission stock gear. Its been removed. Still concerned i cannot make my engine rpm go over 6000 rpm at idle when fully warmed up and parked.

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.