HusseinHolland

My 280Z has had all kinds of botch repairs to the EFI harness. Quite the mess. I want to get rid of the spaghetti look while I'm at it. So, I cut the entire harness at the strut tower, and I'll put in a couple gang plugs to tie the new harness to the original. These two were the patched thermal timer & ECT - based on the other end where I can see the cable numbers, I think they had them reversed. That would help explain the horrible starting & rough running I'm using wiring colors based on Volvo conventions, since that's what I'm familiar with. I'll make a legend to translate from the white numbered harness to the colors used. Using new TE/AMP 282189-1 junior timer housings with waterproof seals for the sensors & injectors. These also have the spring release tabs, so much easier than the old style where you need to get in there with a pick to release them. The gang plugs are Deplhi 16 way and TS hybrid 090/187 8 way figuring out the layout on the motor before I add the gang plugs & wrap it. Have to add in the temp gauge wire & the throttle valve, the EGR related wiring I'll dead end since I'm removing the EGR valve & solenoid.

It is. 200WHP & only 2000lbs. JDM K24 with K20 head, 6 speed transaxle. I've had the car for around 16 years, I love it but I'm selling it to fund the Datsun, it doesn't need any more fiddling with 🙂 So 76- on has an alternate bypass to keep the engine properly circulating coolant before the t/stat opens located where? I'm assuming the AAR = aux air valve, but I don't know the layout of the cooling system, and the FSM doesn't show much.

I'll make my own lines. The dash will be coming out anyway. The main thing I have to figure out will be the controller. I'll make new lines & convert to Accumulator /Orifice tube, I did that with my X1/9

Thank you for the research - that is what I have, the t/stat housing with the nipple and the water inlet with same. The hard pipe was removed at some point, and they installed a long loop of heater hose, very ugly work. I'll have to rework it. My AC is most definitely aftermarket - this is what I referred to regarding the line fittings - total crap Control panel

So, what is the point of the loop? You are familiar with what I'm talking about? I assume all 280Z have it. Not talking about the heater circuit.

Can't seem to find any concise pics of the overall layout on the 280Z - mine has a loop hose that connects the t/stat housing to the water inlet housing. No pic of it in the 75 FSM. Unclear as to the point of that, unless it serves as the bypass to circulate the head & block when T/stat is closed. Seems like an unwieldy design though. Any ideas?

These you were able to dim? Looking at the reviews, it seems a crapshoot.....

Thanks for the indicators - mine is definitely not factory, the control panel does not say AC, and the AC binary switch is mounted below between the CA warnings for Floor Temp & Cat. I took a pic, but it's out of focus. All the lines on mine have the hose clamps, definitely generic, not factory fitted lines. I'll download the 76 AC section & review it. What I'm inclined to do- since the major comments need replacing - is what I did with my X1/9, convert it to Orifice tube/Accumulator, and ditch the expansion valve & receiver drier. Just have to figure out what to use as a controller.

Had time to get a pic up under the dash - looks to me like the stock non-AC setup?

Worked on finishing the seat upholstery & re assembly today guts of original used Saran Wrap on the headrest area, made it easier to pull the cover over & align it inserting original support wire Cover going on securing the bottom edge this one is more even cut holes for the hinges fit protectors behind hinges hinges in place on cushions Uprights are a little tricky - the back screws don't have a taper guide tip, so I used the rail screws first to position the hinges then swap out for the correct bolts one at a time all together rails back on after clean & lube I put them back in the car for now - have to finish cleaning the floors run the heater wiring & put the carpet in before actually installing them found a small area of surface rust to address on the forward passenger side seat attachment

Thanks - I actually printed that one out, since it had all the notes listed 🙂

Thanks for the tips - I think I watched a video (yours?) that illustrated the potential issue with the glue box opening. I definitely noted comments on pressing the dash as far onto the metal frame as possible.

I was just reviewing earlier posts, so I'll look for yours. He said no blem stock, so I went for the full whack. I certainly expect it will be superlative, based on what I've seen so far. The one they had pictured as a blem for $1000, had obvious defects around the small gauge pods. I figured they wouldn't be visible from the driver's seat. That one was sold, however.

It must have - it's been several days over which I messaged & emailed, and literally after you posted, there was a FB response from them

Ok - they just replied to my message on FB, and I went ahead & bought one of the two non-blem dashes he had.

Hmmm.... I asked specifically about the blem example listed as in stock on the website....

No replies to my email, FB message or to the phone number listed earlier in this thread. I have to wonder if they still are in operation. Can't find a valid address for the company either.

I bought the leather versions of their upholstery (off Amazon, included vents & "Z" embroidery without additional cost), and the new foam to go with. My original seats have 250K miles, so I figured safer to have the foam. There was much hay on the floor. I watched a coupe videos, just to get the gist of the Datsun construction. One guy used dozens of tie wraps(!). I'm familiar with Volvo & Honda (S2000) seats, many hog rings on those, so it was nice to see the way Datsun went about it. Anyway, took the seats out yesterday, and the carpets & under-matting. I have new carpet also, so I need to clean everything up, fix the heater valve coolant leak, then put the new carpeting in, so I can reinstall the seats. Added a reinforcing layer to the under-mats Made new cubby inserts, foam w/ vinyl layer glued removed the seat hinges & rails. Pass seat back upholstery was still good, but I don't want vinyl . Have to clean up the hinges & rails before they go back together. I'm missing the outer hinge covers on both sides. Foam comparsions - new one is thicker, doesn't need the hay layer transfer perimeter wire from originals Started raining, so I moved indoors. Adding seat heaters while I'm at it. Used tie wraps to add in pulling the upholstery flap through to the wire frame Layer of felt to protect the foam Frame wedged in place, upholstery tangs pressed into leather seam, forward flap hog-ringed in place, rear flap not yet attached Fit seems OK Stripped the driver's seat back The upright foam doesn't seem to fit as well, however once the upholstery was on, it seems OK Pulled upholstery over the head rest portion & install 3 hog rings took a couple tries to get the cover reasonably aligned, still a little off center forward cover stretched over tangs, then rear lip seat heater wire brought out near the hinge

Looking at one of their dashes for my 75 280Z. I haven't had any luck with messaging off the website, or with FB messenger. I found the phone number in this thread, so I've tried texting. See what happens.

removed rear bracket from the old struts just a little wear on the body side pivot I reused one old bushing on each end of each strut Even with the hatch blind, it now lifts itself once it's lifted about 8-10" off the catch

Just curious if they ever resolved the cover issue, and how you dealt with gluing it to the old dash. I'm considering buying a new repro dash, just because trying to repair an original dash is always going to end up less than stellar, IMO. I'm not thrilled about spending that much on a dash, however one has to look at it all the time. It's like having a vinyl steering wheel, it just feels wrong.

STB 3B-250273 Comes with all these bits... It's raining, so I can't look at installing mine until tomorrow

So it's pretty much self evident when you look at the accessory bits that come with the strut? I didn't know they came with any adaptors

Thank you - I'll check it out. EDIT - I saw a recent one with the control head, is that what you meant? I didn't see a more detailed one scrolling through your video library I'll do that. I tried to take a pic yesterday, but I didn't have sufficient lighting.

Is this new valve in your post the 4 seasons part, or an OEM valve? I'm assuming OEM, since it has the I/O tubes? My 75 280Z has AC, but looking up under the dash, I don't see the bulkhead valve, only a heater valve. All the lAC lines look 'universal" with the hose clamp fittings, not crimped lines, so mine is perhaps a dealer installed version? Maybe that's why he said the AC never really worked, because there is no positive heat shut off? This leads to another question - if the dealer kit differs from factory, would that mean the control head also has no vacuum switching? If I add the positive shut off valve, I will need a switched vacuum source to activate it...