Pennyman

According to Zhome, the 240z pulled between .72 and .78g's on the skidpad, while the 280z pulled about .72. that's 6/100ths of a g difference. I guess you're still right, but the gap is not large. That is, if we're talking stock form.

Hey folks! It's time to open up that wound again! We all know there's a little bit of tension between the 240z guys and the 280z guys (At least I have a little) about the differences in our cars. I wanna know why you think each car, 240z or 280z, is better than the other, and your reasoning behind it. No cheapo answers like, "The 240z is better because it's the original." We've heard that one enough, tell me YOUR reasoning behind your argument, even if it's simple. I think the 240z is an awesome sports car, and it has its place in history as a car built out of need, but the 280z was ALSO born out of necessity: to stay powerfull in the face of a gas and safety crisis. As a result, I think it made it a better car in some ways than the 240z. For example, its frame rails are thicker as is the metal, making it stiffer car in general (heavier as well, yes). Not to mention the fuel injection. The 240z had 150hp stock with a 9-to-1 compression ratio. The 280z not only overcame its 8.3-to-1 ratio by gaining enough horses to reach 149 (rated at 170 at the engine) but GAINED 15 LB/FT of torque over the 240z! (check zhome for the specs) I think this is augmented by the lower redline, making the power more accessible. This is my view of a couple facts that have been overlooked when considering the 280z compared to the 240z. I LOVE both cars though, so don't worry, I'm not bashing! This thread was partly born out of envy of the 240z's out there!

Hmm, I don't think this stuff really applies to the carbureted models, unless you were bulding a custom carb intake system to suck air in from in front of the radiator. I know muffler shops can widen or "swedge" the tubing, but I don't know about shrinking it.

Pictures! Sounds like a sucess!

Hmm, just came back from church...got some good ideas while there, hehehe. Screw the special order 2.75" stuff, I think you'd be able to get 3" exhaust tubing to work (can never have enough air, right?). The AFM end will have to pounded repeatedly with a hammer to scrunch the tube down about a 1/8th of an inch in order to squeeze itself into the boot. (this will be the hardest part of the process I think). Then, I'm going to call K&N and ask if they have a filter much like the one the MSA unit uses (pt.# RU-3610) but with a 3" outlet. In theory this should all work. This is still a brainstorm guys, hehe. Talk it up.

What about actually making a tube out of fiberglass? Use a piece of flexible ducting as a template, bend it to the right angle, then wrap it in some smooth duct tape to get the outside the right dimension, then lube it up with vasaline and wrape the entire thing with a couple layers of fiberglass, then when dry, pull out the flexible tubing. Is that an option? I just went to the hardware store and had little luck. What do you guys think? Also, I do think you're local car parts store might be able to special order 2 3/4" exhaust tubing (what the MSA unit is made of), but it will be more expensive due to extra shipping. I might go and check out the price for the special ordered stuff, but it's not definite yet.

That's great we have a couple people working on this, I'm sure it will yeild some interesting results. BTW I like the size of that K&N filter on the end of that tubing, I was wondering if you had the pt.# for it, hehehe :classic: I can still make the 2.5 inch tubing work, but each end has to be flanged or "swedged" out to the size of the filter and the boot for the AFM. I'm gonna look for some plastic soon too.

I think the tubing included in many of the K&N "FIPK" kits have a plastic tube, but it's thin, not like the pvc thick-walled piping, but thinner, maybe only 1/16" thick. You said the interior diameter of the pvc tube was 2"? How does it flow compared to the stock airbox? Sorry, but 2" seems a little small to me, but I could be wrong. If there was some way to simply get a thin 90 degree bend like the tubing used on all the little ricer intakes, we'd be in buisiness, hehe. Anything else? I'll keep researching in the meantime...

Good Idea! The MSA unit IS made of exhaust tubing, and it is kinda heavy, so I was even thinking about trying to find a right angle bend of PLASTIC tubing from a hardware store and then simply epoxy on a bracket. 2 3/4" exhaust tubing is pretty hard to come by too, so I think some sort of plastic piece might be the way to go....any ideas?

Ok, new developments. I bought and cut a piece of 2.5" tubing, and it turns out it's too small. Even smaller than the stock airbox outlet tube. The accurate tubing width is 2 3/4" dia. I figure going too big is better than going too small. I'm going to re-order a section of 3" tubing, which may be too big, but I'll be able to shrik the ends for the filter and the outlet boot (I think, right?) Then just for all you folks, I'll post the start to finish how-to section with all the measurements and stuff once it's done. I'm just dissapointed I bought a section of tubing for nothing. drat, $25 down the drain for rushing this project, blah...more to come!

I use midgrade (89) on my 280z here in CA, runs great. Too bad it's up to $2.79 here though.

I hear what you're saying, it may be a small compromise. It's possible too that the less piping there is, the less resistance there is. But the direct contact with moving air might be important. Pretty tricky, any other ideas are appreciated, might as well figure it out and make it the best it can be on paper while I'm waiting for the tubing to come in...

So I measured the radius on the MSA bend, and it's a 4" radius, with 1 1/2" straight tubing on the AFM end and 5' of straight-ness on the filter side. The tubing is 2 1/2" diameter. So an angle a little less than 90 degrees might be ideal. I also thought, if you omit the straight section near the filter (essencially making it a simple bend with no straight section) you effectively move the filter out of the main moving airflow, and behind the left turn signal housing, protecting it from winter rain which would be in the airstream, but still in an area of "cold" air. what do you think, pros and cons?

Didn't even have to measure it, The MSA unit is OBVIOUSLY 90 degrees, but I'll try to expand on the design and make it better. Any tips to make it better than MSA's intake kit?

Anyway, back on topic. I just recieved the "cold-air induction" kit from MSA. Very high quality piece, except for one thing: The bracket welded to the intake pipe is positioned 1/2" from where a pre-existing airbox bolt hole is, and I called MSA this morning, and they said I had to drill a hole in my radiator support to mount it! Now, it would seem to me that a better design from an engineering standpoint would be to weld the bracket in such a way so it LINES UP with a pre-existing threaded hole! How frustrating. I'm not going to drill unneeded holes in my car. I'm going to a muffler shop tomorrow to ask for a 90 degree bend and I'll make a proper one myself.

How DARE the driver of that car use a Haynes manual! Everyone knows Chilton manuals are WAAAAY better!! Haha, just kidding. Haynes are actually my favorite, right behind Nissan service manuals. As for that vegitable, um....better than nothing I guess.

Are 280z's allowed in the corral? hehe. I'm thinking about going, but I have to get in touch with my girlfriend to see if she wants to go before I commit to it, hehe.

In my opinion, smoke the front turn signals to help finish off the look. Just a thought.

Hello, I'd just like to inform everyone that there is a very clean 10th aniversary 280zx in "black gold" trim at the South San Jose Pick-N-Pull at 1675 Monterey Ave. It will be junked soon, as it is simply waiting to be destroyed by passer-bys who come to take it's parts. Everything seems to be intact, clean engine, The interior is imaculate with the original stereo and almost-perfect champagne gold interior. One of the quarter windows has been smashed and there are large dents in the drivers-side front fender and door, but seems to be far from "totalled" status, partly because everything else is so sparkling clean! If you're in the area, check it out. It would be a shame to have such a car be crushed.

I have a 76 Z built in 12/75, and I'm wondering if there's ANYTHING I can do to get around the newly passed CA smog bill. Anything please?? *On knees*

I remember, I had to get a new driveshaft for my Z because the U-joints in the old one were destroying themselves. Bought the new one from MSA, but it was on BACKORDER. Seems to me like they would have the basic essential parts to keep a car running in stock, just in case something like my case happened. I ended up waiting 2 weeks for them to get one made and ship it to me while my car sat in my driveway unsafe to drive.

Like the muffler on this puppy? I would SO get one of these if I could find it with horizontal tips. Is this what you're kinda referring to?

The only removable ones I've seen in the style I like (Straight cut, rolled edge, single opening, 6-8 inches long) have a 4" outlet. BTW, just as a bonus question, do you guys prefer chrome or polished stainless steel?

Clamp on or weld on? What do you recommend?

Hey, I'm in the process of shopping around for an exhaust system, and tips to top it all off. I like stright cut, rolled edge tips, but the only ones that fit 2.25 inch tubing have an outlet of a very "rice" evoking 4 inches. Maybe I'm wrong and it looks fine? not too big for a Z? Let me know what you guys think. You like non-rolled edge tips? Let me know. I'm open to suggestions.