kyteler

Dont forget Lachlan, not only will you experience bounce and softness.. but you'll have ABSOLUTELY NO LATERAL SUPPORT! so when you're going fast around tight corners.. OH LOOK! it's the door! *thump* OH LOOK! it's the centre console *thunk* SO make sure you hold onto the steering wheel tightly . I've been contemplating changing my seats, perhaps going with R32 ones, not sure whether they fit or anything I just like 'em and it's still a Skyline, so that's always good

So does mine, dude, so does mine.. accursed thing. However.. thanks for reminding me.. the JDM one at the wreckers has a twist lock mechanism to stop it doing that.. I kept forgetting to go and get it. I'll remember one of these days, during the day, when it's actually open and I have money As for timing.. uhmm.. I'll give you what they provide in factory service manual I have but, it's only a guideline.. because with today's modern fuels that suck it's usually not quite right anymore. Single Carb L24 Manual Trans -- 17° @ 550rpm Auto Trans -- 17° @ 650rpm Single Carb L24 w/ Air Pollution Equipment Manual Trans -- 10° @ 650rpm Auto Trans -- 10° @ 650rpm Note: If you have Air Con, increase the engine speed by 150rpm higher than as written.

You can set the timing yourself, get a timing gun if you dont have one, they're always a handy thing if you're planning on doing work to the car yourself. Check for the timing notch on the pulley, give it a bit of a wipe and put a dab of whiteout in it. Attach the timing light to number 1 plug and shine it towards the wee timing degree plate on the dizzy side of the engine. The dot of whiteout whould reflect the light back nice enough to see whereabouts it's sitting... (Im pretty sure the car should be at operating temperature when you're doing this btw, if it's not the case someone will correct me no doubt.) There should be a bolt on the dizzy that you undo enough to be able to twist the dizzy and there should also be a wee graph on there with A(dvance) and R(etard), being you've put twin SU's on yours Lachlan I would have assumed they adjusted the timing slightly for the different amount of fuel that would be getting into the engine over the standard Hitachi 2BBL, or did you just slap it on? If you'd rather just tell your mechanic that it hesitates when you stomp the gas they'll probably just adjust the timing for you it doesnt take too long. It's also handy to have a vacuum guage to attach at the same time so you can be sure you're getting optimum vacuum at the set timing. I've probably missed stuff out too.. oh well, please anyone feel free to jump in and tell me I'm making stuff up

Sounds like a timing issue to me if she's hesitating when hot when you stomp the gas firmer than normal.

I cant help in either case but out of curiosity are you referring to the lockable opening flap type plastic badge part? OR the physical cap istelf that twists onto the opening?

Hey man, AS people have pointed out.. it's not supposed to.. when you swap in the Manual transmission you have to put together the two wires that once went to either side of the switch as to complete the starter circuit. It's called the Inhibitor Switch, basically breaks your ignition circuit if you're in anything other than Neutral or Park to stop you surging forward or backwards or doing anything silly Nothing to worry about.

It could probably do with a bit of timing adjustment but yes, for the small run I took with it still being cold it was definately smoother... but having said that I had always suspected a problem with my dizzy beforehand so it's obviously irradicated that problem of occaisional random missing which I'm very please about. I'll let you know how it feels after a while of using it. It even sounds a little more raspy. Which is a bit louder and different than I'm used to but it still sounds like a fantastic L-series Straight-6 :love:

Done and done. Slapped it all on there... about 30mins later and she fired right up, and there's no longer any bounce in my tach needle. Hurrah!

Now, I'm not trying to be rude here, I'll make that clear from the start. Any vague amount of research into the subject of whether the S30 (I prefer to use S30 as opposed to 240Z) was a classic pre-350Z other than your own personal experience or opinion would prove this statement null and void. I've attached (hopefully) the quickest article I could find, it's from a UK mag called Thoroughbred & Classic Cars and to be honest, it's fairly biased towards European vehicles to be expected though, the home market being the target market and all. You only have to look at the title of the article to understand my point. Now again, don't get me wrong.. I'm not saying simply because it was a single Japanese car, infact I believe it's the ONLY non-European car mentioned in a European car biased magazine that it's the be-all and end-all, it's just one example for you to note. If you're unable to read it (due to scan quality), the date at the bottom is March 1988, which unless I'm mistaken is quite a few years before the release of the 350Z. The second paragraph you meantion that no-one cared except the "baby-boomers" and the "hardcore Z enthusiasts" ?? Where did "hardcore Z enthusiasts" pop-up from?, do hardcore fans simply materialise the moment something is released? this just seems an odd thing to me, I was under the impression hardcore fans built up to such, by being constantly impressed by something or constantly enjoying it. OK... I'll end my post here, I had it all broken up into little sections addressing each point you voiced with a response, however... i checked the thread before I posted and it seems both Alfadog and Bambikiller240 beat me to it. (I had the window open for a while and forgot about it ) Oh well, I havent read what they've written yet, it may have been different but I don't want to make it seem as though you're being attacked from all sides... so, please. Enjoy the knowledge you will find on this website for your 240Z, the people here are fantastic, helpful people and are always willing to help with anything ClassicZ related, oddly enough... the place being called ClassicZCars.com

Hey guys, Again, this is in the 240K forums but it's open for every and anyone who may know because the knowledge will help anyone, well.. anyone with access to Skylines. I recently got a distributor from a GC211 Skyline... Now i figured it had an E12-80 module on it... I even asked the guy about it, something along the lines of "does the little black box on the side of the dizzy have E12-80 on it, because if it does I'll have the dizzy." Anyway, long story short.. it doesnt. The whole distributor is a Mitsubishi Unit, the Module still has 2 spades however, and they're still labeled C and B. Now the Dizz was running fine as far as I understand it on the Fuel Inj. L20A GC211, so theoretically the conversion should be the same as if it was the same dizzy and module conversion from a ZX to a Z. But I thought I'd ask and check with you guys before I went and tried anything incase there'e something stupid I'm forgetting or missing out. I have the coil from an R30 with a different ignition system, but still electronic so I'm sure I'm sorted in that area. But if anyone would like to give me warnings I'd be would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance happy Z family, from one of your K siblings. I've attached a picture of the distributor

Just out of curiosity Razor, are you sure there's enough fluid in it? In an Auto you're supposed to check the level with the car running. That's what my mechanic/WoF guy told me anyway and he's been around for a while and knows his stuff. Just a thought. Other than that though.. Sorry no Idea. BTW: I've taken a few more pics and I've kinda started work on the Auto -> Manual Conversion process, it'll be a wee while yet though, I want to try make sure I not everything down, I'd hate to be responsible for missing something out.

That, unless I'm mistaken looks like a picture from www.j-spec.com.au or alternatively the auction place where they get most their pictures from Glad to see another K person, welcome. JMT240KGTR used to and probably still does have a sedan although I'm not sure for how much longer as I think there was a whole swapping thing going on for him to get the Hardtop. I would also be keen to see some pics of your car. Again welcome.. any questions just ask. Make sure you post them in the 240K section though.. you might get growled at my angry american Z owners otherwise LOL

At some stage I'll write the process down to make it easier for others, it's fairly simple. Just a little time consuming if you dont make sure you have the right tools. :stupid: Like I didn't. Note: Make sure you actually DO have a 12mm ring spanner and dont assume you do have one, cause that driveshaft isnt going anywhere without one. This would have been a helpful artical for me... if I had of found it beforehand. But I didnt til afterwards. So for you guys; http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/auto2man-gearbox.html A few things on it I didnt worry about or I did it slightly differently but I'll do a write up with pictures or something later on.

I'm not sure how I hadn't seen this whole thread til now but anyway.. I like the add-on to the bottom of the model plate Alan, good stuff LOL

I'm not sure what the A means but I would imagine it's not too much of a worry. If it's a dual filament bulb which it looks to be; 12V - 12volts power required for the bulb.. good thing you run a 12V battery in the car or they wouldnt work properly. 8/3.4W - the lower number will be the Watts of one filament and the other.. the other. (oddly enough) If you're worried about dim lights Razor, I'd look at the one that's 3.4W I had to change some in my tail-lights cause they were bollocks wattage and looked $^!#. And the good news is I've got a 5speed .. AAHAH! ok... so that's doesnt help you.. sorry.

Thanks for the suggestions and help guys, it's much appreciated. It turns out it was just something with the other starter motor, so I'll have to get it sorted. For the moment though.. the old Auto starter is on there and she's running sweeeeeeeeeeeeet. Couldnt be more happy with her.. speedo is a bit out, but I used my brother driving 50 to figure out exactly what was going on speed wise and I'm pretty safe there now too. I'll still try and get the proper cog sorted.. eventually For the moment I'm just happy she's all going! WOOHOO! went for a trip to the local autoparts accessory store.. ending up driving several other places back and forth across town for no other reason than to drive her

Just to let you guys know I am running (well attempting to) a manual starter, I'm going to try the old auto starter today once I get off my arse.

I think the switch itself is located inside the transmission.. however, I tried several combinations of wire connectings from the tranny section of loom to no avail.. I was getting nothing. After receiving the diagram from Alfadog I clarified what each wire actually meant and tried again, unfortunately.. all it resulted in was the click I mentioned in the last post.. Perhaps there's just something wrong with that starter motor/solenoid.. even though it's clicking and it runs fine when you short it between the power and ignition switch. I'll try the other starter that was on the auto tomorrow.. I hope that's all it is.. because being able to start the car without a screwdriver across terminals would be good I also have a speedo problem.. Im probably going to have to run the cog that came in the 5speed because when I changed to the auto one, the cog body must be the wrong offset because it doesnt spin the cog at all, so it mustn't even be touching inside. It's great to actually have a 5speed though I'm excited and I've only driven it for about 2 minutes and that was several hours ago!

OK, well.. with Lachlan's help (Alfadog) I got a wiring diargram.. which made sense and seems to do at least something.. but not enough. At least now the starter solenoid is clicking... but it's still baffling me. So I got frustrated and shorted the start motor to bring her to life.. and took her for a run.. WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE. Now tomorrow I've got to try figure out what's going on :mad:

Hey there Guys, I know this is in the 240K forum but it's irrelevant I imagine... I finally got the tranny swap all sorted and it's all in and bolted up, the shifter is in perfect position however... I can't find any info on wiring in regards to the starter. I searched the forums and nothing addressed the problem other than a link to zhome which partially helped out in possibly clarifying what I thought the problem was. On an auto there's a mechanism to stop the car starting whilst it's in gear. How do I sort out the wiring now that there's no stupid 3 speed auto on there anymore.. My poor car, she's sitting on ramps and just needs to start.

The commonality lies in the traits and functions of the car the Bluebird is a light, small-medium sized, economical, basic car (in road form). Just as the Z or Fairlady is a sports car, despite the slow deviation from being a dedicated sports car, it's still a sports car from the SP311, S30, S130, Z31, Z32, Z33.. it's name and shape has changed dramatically since the start but it still fills the same gap in the current generation that the previous did for it's. They're not going to retain everything the same, such is the evolution of anything. Changed and moulded as suited. If you ask someone what a Bluebird is, they'll more than likely say it's a cheap, small-medium sized economical family car. At least that how it seems to be over here, perhaps and more than likely it's different in the US, I would imagine it is.

What? I think you're mistaken. The B210 was a Sunny as sblake01 mentioned or also known as the 120Y. B210 is just the chassis code. Much like C110 for my Skyline or C210 for the model after mine. I disagree about the name sharing though, the Bluebird is a distinct line of cars. The Maxima did branch off the Bluebird however.