Xargon321

so a 80 zx 5 speed is a direct drop in? now did they only come in one ratio? i was looking at this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1957 what about the drive shaft, amy modding there the yoke wil slide right in?

was looking at a 5 speed swap on my 74 260z and was wondering if the 79-83 zx tranny would work without cutting or is it 70-78 needs to be cut to work? i heard about useing a custom shifter is there any kits avaible if it does have to be modded? and would it be worth mabey just swaping in a z 5 speed?

i was talking float needle and seat, but thanks for the info, it turns out that the rear carb got way out of sync :stupid: now i have it where itll stumble and keep running.

my 260z didnt cost me a thing, it runs but the rear carb dont seem to repond when i push the lifting pin, i just think the carbs are fubar and need a major rebuild not the little kits they sell in the autoplaces around here

Lifting the piston disables the carb? woudnt that let more fuel in? they are both set at two turns down, floats are at 15mm, the only thing is that the rear carb needle and seat seems firmer then the front the rear float dosent go down as far as the front one, will check the spring to see if its the right one.

then what whould it be? the needle and seat are new the float.. floats and the mixture nut was turned all the way in... in tuning the front carb when i push the piston it wants to stall the engine, this indicated a lean condition right?

forgot to add that i am getting fuel to the rear carb and itll will run so im getting spark but i dont know why raising the piston in the carb has no effect what so ever.

well i got back to tuning my z and i get the front somewhat tuned and go to the rear car, when i press the lifting pin to check the mixture it dont do anything!! i even pushed up the piston with my finger and it didnt do anything. its is moving smoothy and it does suck air, need help please

i wont have a need for the extra power eather and i dont like to cut up harnesses, make to much mess and fuss if i want to go stock again

im in orchards off of 164th, probably 4 miles away from portland. i really could use some help with this i dont have any knowledge about z's except what ive gleened from this site and read in a haynes manual, i have a good mechanical ability and know how to do most sundry stuff, but i learn very well by someone showing me how to and tricks to it books only take me so far..

at idle i didnt even need to turn the lights on and it died.

well its still smokes but now its upon accell now and seems to keep doing it under load but not while idleing i pulled the plug and while they are sooty black but there is no oil on them, could it be the valve stems? i havent got a comprestion tester but i might beable to get one to check

i just found carfilch.com and was nosing around in it and saw that the early 74 has the same console that the 73's had my 260z was made in january of 74 (1/74 right?) but it has the late console but even it does not match completely, i could have been changed but the console wireing wouls have to be changed to right?

i have a amp gauge and yes it is to the left of the middle line till i rev it up them itll climb a little it but nothing major.

well i got it stoped smoking after i timed it, Was about 7 degrees off.... now all thats left it to tune the carbs.

how do i check to see if the alt is working properly? without a voltmeter i mean. is it the pull the battery cable while its running trick with the z's i have a 74 260z and just got it on the road monday!!

like the title says i need to know the size of the float bowl vent nipples, and the thread pitch etc. and where would the best place to find them at?

thats just it i put the maxlife oil in there. and a can of restore, could the headgasket be broken on a oil passage to a cylinder?

that would not suprise me at all. i do know that car sat for about 8 months before i got it to so that could be a factor as well, whats the recommended weight oil to put in it?

is that what they recommend or is it a quick fix? the repair manual i have says 10w-30 for the weather i have here.

my z that i just got running 74 260z, i changed the oil today and now its poofing blue smoke, it did it before the oil change but not bad at all now it looks like one of those chrystler minivans i put valvoline max life 10w-30 in it and a can of restore, i dont know if its ever been rebuild so i dont know if it has harded valve guides or not need ideas please!!

anyone know the answer to the float bowl vents?

Well after having to buy a new radiator for my z it came today and it got installed and she is running again, now all that is left for the engine at this point it a oil change(1 year old oil as far as i can tell ewwwww), and have to get the 72 thottle arm as the 74 just dont cut it with the 72 carb linkage, also the float bowl vent nipples? the ones that go to the air cleaner what size and thread type are they i dont have them on my car..... good thing this car came to me for free....

probably not as you have a auto.. but if its all talk, he probably cant drive anyway. now if you can test drive a subaru wrx sti that would waste his car, 300 hp at 6k and 300 lb at 4k out of a flat four that and a 6 speed manual. i drive them at my work and damn are they fast. all wheel drive to. a little ricey but at least its fast

ill take the engine it still looks good.... same about the z tho. but its true that no car is safe for a unsafe driver.