LanceM

Can't say for sure but the fingers look ok to me, what usually happens is they break off, they all look there and even. Since you have it out I'd take it to a clutch shop and have them check it out, maybe the springs are just tired. What I ment by the throw out bearing "dissappearing" is sometimes they wear out and actually break up ending up in the bottom of the housing. They usually make a hell of a lot of noise for a long time before that happens, but since your's is there and intact it wasn't causing the problem. Is the clutch disk good?

Burnt valve??

Aren't electral proplems great Give me a mechanical any time !! For the running lites I'd say you have a high resistance short, in other words it's not quite shorted to ground so the fuse isn't blowing. Say it's a 10 amp fuse, with the lites on they draw 5 amps, the wire is cool, add a high resistance short and it draws another 4 amps, 9 amps total, the wire gets hot but the fuse doesn't blow. Remember the fuse is to protect the wire, which can handle 10 amps but not 15-20. Get an volt ohm meter, they are cheap, with the lights off measure from the hot lead to ground on ohms, it should read infinte if you get a reading you have a short. Finding it is the hard part, probably the best way is to turn on the lights and feel the wire every where it goes, warm the short is in front of you, cool the short is behind you. For the reverse problem, next time it happens leave the shifter in reverse, key on, and get out and see if the back up lites are on. If they are you can sort of eleminate them from the problem, if they are off??? try disconnecting the reverse light switch and see if the problem goes away... That's the only thing I can think of that is different from going forward. Good luck!

A little ticking is normal, don't work too hard at it and overtighten one of them, you'll eat up your cam in no time. If the clearance is right after you snug down the lock nut I wouldn't worry about it, mechanical valves are noisy compaired to hydralic which have a cushion of oil to ride on.

I just read somewhere, either here or another site about how the tachs are hooked up. Seems the 240's hook up different somehow that the rest of the models.... I read it because I have a 240 and it was interesting, not because I needed to know and I'm afraid that I've forgotten the high points! Anyway it's probably not the tach but how it is now hooked up with the new ignition. Sorry I can't be of more help

Thanks for the heads up, I'll flush it with some soda real good. Lance

Finding them is tough, I've been looking for a while myself. They are made of cardboard so that may be why they are so rare, later models used plastic. I still have mine and have been considering using it for a pattern to make a new one myself if I can find some suitable material to work with. I did find one last year (used not NOS)and the guy wanted $50 for it, he may still have it

Carguy, If your cam is a regrind, which it probably is, it will probably be tough to tell what the grind is. If there are any numbers they will probably be on the end under the drive sproket. Since this will just be a part # it won't do you much good without knowing the manufacture. More than likely the only way to tell what it is would be to measure it, get your degree wheel out and your dial indicator and start turning

Just cleaned mine after 15years sitting. About the same situation. Remove the sending unit for the gas gauge and you will have a lot better shot at cleaning it out. I sprayed mine everyway I could with a power washer then dumped a half gallon of muriatic acid in it and let it sit for about an hour gently stirring the tank around every once in a while. Then I connected a garden hose to the vent on the drivers side of the tank and flushed it for about 30 minutes. Came out looking like new inside, I started with about a half inch of really nasty smelling gunk on the bottom to start with

I don't know if anyone makes one, but with the age of the engine I wouldn't want a "kit". You never know what you are going to find and having to later go with oversize crank bearings or something would add to the kit price real quick with things you can't use. I would buy a full gasket set and go from there. If you find that you need the crank turned I would buy the bearings from the shop that's turning it, they will usually check to make sure that what you get fits. Same if you have the engine bored, buy the rings/pistons from them, they'll match the bore to the piston/ring. You'll end up saving money this way though it might cost more than a kit but you won't have extra new parts you can't use.

First off since you changed the master cylinder and still have no fluid out of the rear you have not fully bled the system and have air in in now, so the brakes are worse than before. I would say that with air still in the master cylinder brakeing would be erratic on the side that was bled too. Here's what I would do, first you need to find out where the fluid is stopping on it way to the back brakes. I'm not sure which way the check valve goes in off hand but you probably know going by the clean side dirty side method of how it was mounted. I would loosen a fitting one at a time starting at the master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes while looking for fluid, if fluid comes out move backwards until you find where the fluid stops. You may have a clogged line, frozen wheel cylinders, clogged bleaders. Got to get them fixed right, stopping is not an option

That would have been worth seeing, better yet asking him what the hell he thought he was doing I've always figured it was because there aren't any lions, tigers, or bears running around loose like in the old days. They were natures way of keeping the "stupid" population in check. See what happens when you mess with mother nature!!

Wow that must have been some pump! Considering the inlet size of the needle valve in the carb I find it hard to believe that you could put enough pressure on the needle to force the floats into a full bowl. It may be more of a case of the seat and needle being worn and gas bypassing causing the overflow. A regulator wouldn't hurt and I would set it between 5-10 psi, that should give you more than enough flow.

I'm the second owner and believe the car was all original when I bought it in '79. Mfg date 11/72 HLS30-135546 L24 142045 Original color orange, now yellow. Restored and modified both engine and body.

'73s use both an electric and mechanical pump. If I remember right the electric doesn't turn on until the engine reaches 600 rpm for safety, if the engine stops the fuel pump stops. That way if in a crash the fuel line ruptures and the engine is stopped but the key on you won't be pumping fuel all over who knows what is hot or sparking while you are in the car wonding what happened!! I would not eliminate the mechanical pump myself, but have no problem with adding an electric as a boost pump to the mechanical one.

I understand now. Yes you could use this outlet for a fuel return line but I wouldn't. Doing so would lower the fuel pressure available to the carb, in a high boost situation you might not have enough pressure to feed the carb. I would leave it as it is, you don't need a fuel return line. Cars never had them before the early '70s.

Adding an electric fuel pump won't hurt, it will keep fuel to the manual pump and reduce the amount of work it has to do to keep the fuel pressure up. You don't need a fuel return line, it was added as a way to reduce emissions, a polution control device. I don't quite understand your second question, so I'll answer it this way. You can't use the fuel return line for feeding a carbarator, looking at your attached photo it looks like the fuel pump has two outlets, so I assume that one is currently blocked and would guess that it could feed two different lines. A single line should be able to feed multiple carbs with no problem using a Y or other connector to split the line.

Sounds like you have to pull the tranny to find out but it sounds to me like the throwout bearing "disapeared" if you have that much play, the only other thing I can think of is broken fingers on the pressure plate. Since you'll have it apart I'd think about clutch and pressure plate and a new throw out bearing. I'd probably throw in the 5 speed, no use doing everything twice. Hey and since you have it apart now would be a great time to put on an aluminum flywheel

If the exhaust temps are that high I would have to say that the engine is lean, the only other thing I can think of is restriction in the exhaust system.

Forget the clear ones, go solid. Of course there is a little more work involved but they sure look neat

It's really easy, the only thing you must do is block the timing chain in place so that the tensioner dosen't fall out. if it does you have to pull the front off of the engine to get it back in place. They make a plastic tool for the job, but if I remember right I just used a hunk of broom handle. If you look down inside the front of the block you will see the tensioner pushing on the chain, that is where you need to put your block. Other than that just loosen and remove the rockers, remove the drive gear, 2 (I think)bolts on the cam hold down and carefully remove the cam from the cam towers. installation is just the reverse. You are right that it is easier than a pushrod engine to change.

Gotta tell somebody, the wife don't care After sitting 14-15 years waiting, the Z fired up tonight! Changed the oil, greased the cam and dumped a couple of quarts of oil over the gear train. Turned it over for a couple of minutes with no plugs (30 seconds on 2 minutes off) to get the oil up and around. Put in new plugs and pulled the trigger. She fired right up but wouldn't idle, found the problem to be clogged idle jets (tripple webbers), cleaned them up and now she runs just like when I put her away. Can't believe it, figured I'd have a month of fussing just to get her to start and run. If I had brakes I'd take her for a drive! Love to hear her idle, nothing like the lope of that big arse cam of course the rotted out inlet to the muffler sure adds to the sound ) And to think I was thinking of getting her running and selling her off, NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!! I feel like a kid at Christmas! Well thanks for listening!

for comparison, my '73, mfg date 11/72, vin 135546, engine serial # 142045 Lance

The Cap on the regulator is to reduce noise from the altenator in the radio.

You're probably right, but a lifetime of fixing things is hard to overcome, expecially when you get old I had to try! Besides, I had a bad experiance with rebuilt master cylinders a few years ago, '67 Pontiac, put in 6 rebuilt in 2 weeks, none of them any good. Finally spent the money and bought a new one. I was told that the problem with a rebuilt is that there are no oversized seals, so if a core is honed once it's probably ok, twice maybe, three times probably not. I asked what happened to all of the ones I returned?? " Oh they probably just rebuild them" !!!! So much for quality control! So I'm sort of shy of rebuilt things that get honed out as you can see.