73avocado

No worries, thanks for the follow up. Looks like I’ve got a Franken-charger. I believe it’s still running off the external regulator, but it’s got a later-model Mitsubishi alternator. It’s also got a second connector between the VR and the alternator. The alternator has 6 wires including the main output and ground, but it’s only wired to use 4. It’s got B, A,N,F, E and the large ground. It’s only using B, N, F, and the large ground. Out of the VR, there are two wires tapped to one connection point. I think that’s my lamp since one wire goes into the cabin. I also found a wire nearly broke off in one connector and the same wire on the other side of the plug was scorched. Both sockets were full of green corrosion. I’m 90% sure it’s the sense wire out of the VR. At this point I’m going to start with new plugs and wires all around, then see where I end up.

Does the sense wire normally go into the cabin? Since the colors are wrong, I found the only wire with voltage while the car was off. From the full diagram, I’d expect that wire to be under the hood.

@SteveJ , I’ve got a ‘73 240z, and I’m chasing an electrical issue. Here’s what I’ve got: I changed the voltage regulator some time ago. It’s delivering 17 V when the car is running. I’ve cooked the battery and the radio has stopped working. I haven’t checked the radio fuse yet. The PO made changes to the wiring harness. None of the wire colors are OEM and the junctions at the cabin firewall have been deleted. The sense wire has a connector just inside the cabin. With the car off and the wire disconnected on both ends (in the cabin and at the VR) I get 7V, so I’ve got a short to hot and need to replace that wire. With the sense wire connected, I get zero V, so I’ve got some sort of short or break in the cabin as well. I see your diagram above says radio next to the sense wire. Is that wire also the unswitched power to the radio? Two shorts seems like pretty big coincidence. Any other suggestions?

Those are spectacular! Thanks!

In the first pic, u can see a bucket and other stuff through the car. Maybe that’s the tail light hole though.

Thanks! Looks like you have the fender off. Can I do all this with just the interior panels removed?

I’ve got the same issue (can’t drive more than 20min w/o smelling like a gas station) with my ‘73 240. I’ve got the original block and air box, but with the ‘70-‘72 carbs. Any help on checking fuel lines and carbs would be great.

Good call EuroDat. I ended up cutting a slot in the agreeably soft aluminum of the new housing. Upon installing, I found that it went in past the slot anyway. I thought maybe I had installed it too far in, but it works fine, so I left it. Speedo works, no more leaks!

So, in comparing the old and new housings, it looks like the offset in the shaft hole faces the opposite direction. In the pic, the locking shoulder in both is facing the same way. You can see the gear in the new housing over hangs to the right, but the hole in the old one is closer to the left. I’m going to see if I can put a shoulder on the opposite side of the new housing.

Hi, So at this point for the tranny leak game, it’s me: 2, 73 Z: 1. The slave cylinder and reverse switch are replaced, not leaking, and working perfectly. Unfortunately, I can no longer tell how fast I’m going. I got the speedo pinion out, and it looks like it’s not the first time out of the car. Somebody had done some delicate work on it with a big set of vice grips. I went ahead and got a new one, and it looks exactly like the one in EuroDat’s procedure above. It was quite a bit different than the heavy steel one that I took out. It seemed to match up, so I stuck it back in. Good news, no leaks, bad news, no speed speed indicator. I checked the cable and it is not broken, and secure in the pinion. I ran out out time today and have not taken the pinion out again. Has anyone else swapped out this housing before? I noticed the gear was slightly offset in the housing, but this seemed to be true in the old housing too. I’m pretty sure I got the housing in “right side up”, with the throttle shelf for the locking tab in the right direction. Any other thoughts? Mm

They’re all leaking down the casing. I’ll take another look at the slave. Thanks.

Ok, I’ll do some stretching and try again. Thanks.

I’m trying to adjust the passenger side hinges on my 73Z. The door is hard to close and the gaps don’t match. In the 73, the hinges are still threaded, which is awesome, because I didn’t want to take the fender off. Unfortunately, there are a slew of relays and connections mounted to/through the fiber board interior panel. I’m down to one screw, but am not contortionist enough to get it out. Has anyone done this before? Do I need to take the dash out? Thanks!

I’ve got a new (to me) 73 Z, and I’ve got leaks from the 3 devices mounted to the transmission. They all leak down the outside of the housing. I’ve found a drawing that calls them the speedo drive, reverse lamp switch, and the clutch slave cylinder. I’ve only been able to find a part number for the o-ring for the speedo, and not much info on how to get at them. Does anyone have the part numbers for the 3 o-rings or seals? Anybody done these before? I’m really hoping to change them without dropping the tranny. Thanks!