Curtis240Z

Not if you have to drill the frame. Usually larger bars have an adaptor plate that bolts in the stock location and then they have some new holes spaced farther apart to accomadate bigger bars (which are located in board of the frame rails).

I've installed several MSA lowering springs over the years on 240Zs and the springs were blue. FWIW.

The TWM ITBs bolt up to any DCOE compatable manifold.

I'm just getting my triple TWM throttle body setup going and it is so much nicer not having to deal with jets anymore. I had triple 44 mm Mikunis and while it was great the low speed driveability (<3000 rpm) isn't very strong. But this option is WAY more expensive than Mikunis!

Yes that is the typical protocol. A male connector when disconnected has it's metal conductor exposed thus could easily touch a metal surface and ground out.

Red because that wire should have 12V on it when the ignition is in the ON position and thus it would have a female bullet connector to keep it from accidently shorting to ground.

Check the fuseable link by the starter.

Process of elimination. Honk the horn first. If the fuse blows then you need to concentrate your efforts in the steering wheel area or the horns themselves. If that was not the problem you need to recreate the problem so you can trace down the short or ground. To reduce going through all your spare fuses before finding the problem you could use a SINGLE strand of wire from some stranded wire and let that cut instead of using a new fuse everytime. Remember to replace the strand with a good fuse when you are done. Good luck finding shorts or grounds in the miles of wire, it can be a trying task. Sometimes it is a bad electrical component that is shorting or grounding like the horn or dash gauge.

That is a Jim Cook Racing rear fender kit.

You can buy ST springs from JC Whitney. As far as non-coilover springs go I like them the best (better than MSA, Eibach, Tokico). Pacesetter used to sell springs that were yellow.

So I guess you aren't going racing with the coil-overs if you want some bargain units. If you only want it for more tire clearance then bargain units will do. If you are racing there are different types depending on the rules of the sanctioning body you are racing with.

Make sure the vacuum pistons in the carbs move freely throughout their full travel.

This is why I don't like to use offset. The offset changes with wheel width where as backspacing stays constant.

I have a Jim Davis aluminum radiator that works great, but I am looking for a stock type replacement that cools as good or better since copper is a better conductor than aluminum. I have used 4 core copper units from MSA but they don't cool as good as the Jim Davis unit.

You need to first decide what kind of racing you want to do, then find out what kind of modifications are allowed. Then you can determine if you are going to end up with a tube frame car or a modified unibody car.

Flares let you go as big as you want!

Coilovers will give you an additional 1" more tire and rim you can tuck under the body, but you don't have to use coilovers as some owners want to have the flare look. My Z already draws too much attention so I wanted to minimize the fender modification. So coilovers would let you use 8" rims but anything wider in the rear and you would need flares. BTW I am running 17x9.5 rims on all corners with 255/40-17s and coilovers and the front fenders are stock (with the inside lip rolled). If you do your homework, you shouldn't need spacers. I'm not running spacers.

The most common problem is bad diodes in the alternator. Try disconnect your alternator overnight and see if the problem persists in the morning after you rehookup the alternator. As with any live electrical device take the proper precautions.

It really depends how bad your friend wants it and how good a friend you are to him. Knowing that you can't new ones anymore it is worth a lot, since I knew that I took all the sets I could find from the Pick-A-Parts yards in central Calif. I got three sets for $10.

I have CCW wheels on my Z, check my gallery for a look. 7" wide rims on a stock 240Z would be the most common.

225mm tire is the most popular for that size rim. Everybody is working hard at either reopening the raceway or building a new one and leaving the old raceway open until the new one is built. I have vested interest since I am the SCCA Solo Chair.

You can fit 8" wide rims under the stock fenders with coilovers. You should roll your fenders for maximum clearance. I used to have 16x8, 5" backspace with 245/45-16 tires. Now I am running 17x9.5 with 255/40-17 with flares only in the back.

The spark from a stock 240Z points system will be weaker than the electronic 280ZX system, but the goal at this point is not optimization but to get the car running and if you are getting spark from the 240Z system at the spark plugs then you have completed your task. Try remove the spark plugs from the head, attach the spark plug wire on the spark plugs and clamp the spark plug bodies to ground. Crank the engine over and you should see the spark plugs firing if everything is working correctly. If you get the sparks then concentrate on the gas system.