chaseincats

So with this switch on, the air filter off, and an extra vacuum leak added for good measure still wouldn't get enough air into the engine to get it up Pike's?

If you don't have a CA car you won't have that sensor in there but I'd imagine the connector should be. Stick your head in the driver side foot well and look up near where the hood-pull cable lies and you should see the connector that you can jump. I can see Nissan not spending the money to not include the sensor in federal cars, but creating an entirely separate loom for fed/CA cars seems like a needless cost so the connector should be there in all cars I'd guess.

Yes, one terminal has power and the other goes to the ecu I'm guessing. Here is a couple pics of the one I pulled out of my car:

It just means unplug a vacuum line that goes directly to the intake manifold

I'm pretty sure your car has the connector - it just didn't come with the sensor. To my knowledge, they didn't create different wiring harnesses. If you can find the connector, use a test light to see if it's getting power with the car running and that should tell you if this trick will work for you.

I removed the sensor itself (and substituted a switch) because i doubt it worked and I couldn't test it with the FSM's test method since the rubber connector leaked air haha

Question for you guys, would jumping the terminals to engage the high-altitude switch improve my mpg? Also, would this cause any engine damage if run like this in an area that doesn't require the switch to be on? Apparently with it engaged, it decreases fuel by 6%.

Update for you guys. I created a bypass switch to enable high-altitude mode using a standard flip switch and two spade connectors (one plugged into each of the plug's 2 sockets). I gave it a quick test and it seems to be working (after confirming continuity). If your bypass switch is working, you will notice the following with the car warmed up and any vacuum line unplugged: Switch on: the car should have a fairly noticeable stumble Switch off: the car should have a mild stumble if at all

Well that's odd, I wonder why they did that

So it looks like I'm missing the metal piece that lines the aft piece of wood in which the hinge attaches itself (and of course the hinges too haha). How does that chrome piece that sits on top of the carpet mount? I'm guessing it has screws that go through the carpet but what does it fasten to?

Awesome, looking forward to it

I always thought the front piece (the one nearer to the driver) opened as well in order to grant access to the two small storage bins where the toolkits were in the 240. Am I mis-remembering?

These are awesome shots, this will be a massive help. Could you take a couple pics of how the front board is bolted down and what is screwed into the middle brackets?

Ah gotcha, so there are long black hinges that attach to the ends of each piece of wood and are screwed into the bracket? It seems that the two wooden pieces don't connect to each other then? Any idea where I could get that hardware? I've looked everywhere...

Awesome, thanks for this! Is there any special hardware I use to mount the floor? I seem to remember they have some sort of hinge so they can be raised and lowered instead of being screwed into the car, am I wrong? I do have the side wooden pieces, but didn't add them to the original picture. Here is what my hatch area looks like: So it looks like I have the brackets but am missing the mounting hardware?

Hi guys, Can someone tell me what hardware I'm missing and how to connect the subfloor? These have always basically rested in place in my car and were never really connected to anything. Here's what I have: Any ideas? -chase

Thanks, I'll look into this!

This is the hole I'm talking about. I sealed it with tape on the inside and outside but I'd prefer a grommet (I don't expect the outside piece to stay on for long).

do you have an example on this tube?

Unfortunately it seems like they don't have it. Thanks anyway!

I have that here coincidentally. Can foam actually create an air-tight seal?

My hatch plugs are fine, its the antenna drain plug (under the car) and possibly the antenna itself Is the drain plug grommet still available? I can't seem to find it.

Ok guys so I found them and here's the list: definitive: vapor tank vacuum line grommet had a huge hole vapor tank hose floor grommet was cracked a bunch of cracks on the fuel filler hose body mount mating area cracked body seam sealer near rear wheel well possible: antenna to body rubber - exhaust get in here? antenna drain plug missing - are these available anywhere? I've taped this shut a few times but it didn't really help

Hi guys, Is it possible for worn/torn vapor tank floor grommets to be the culprit for exhaust fumes in the cabin? If the holes were on the exhaust pipe side, I'd say I've finally found my leak but these hoses/grommets are on the passenger side of the car. (Note: I have changed the inner/outer hatch gasket, glass seal, taillight gaskets, sealed the hatch's vinyl panel, and sealed the hatch grommets) I can also see light through the accordion-style grommet that seals the fuel filler hose to the car but obviously can't glue that shut like the other I found - is that accordion bit replaceable?

Awesome info, thanks! The car has an L26 instead of an L24 - would that change any of these ratings or are those pretty universal for all L-series engines?