chaseincats

What rpm would you say is 'cruise' so I can have the pedal held when tuning it?

So you're thinking I should lean out the drive gear and re-richen the idle a bit? I thought the idle was supposed to be leaner than cruise, no? I did notice after leaning the idle out that the car off the line is a lot zippier. I almost smacked my garage door when turning away from my house the first time I drove it post-tune lol.

Ok gang, here come the numbers on my stock EFI system as-is: Idle: 13.4 2500 rpm shift points: ~13.2 WOT: 12.4 Highway cruise: TBD (will update tonight) NOTE: This is without the high altitude switch on (when enabled it seems to lean the mixture out 1 full point) Changes made: leaned idle to low 15s, will adjust big drive mix gear at a later time. @AK260 Is that chart (except for the ones labeled WOT) for idle, or highway cruise (4k-4500rpm)?

So I just finished wiring the gauge and will be taking it in tomorrow morning to have the o2 sensor bung welded in then I'll drive back and give you guys some numbers. Stock l28 with EFI. I pretty much followed this guys video (even got the same gauge): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS_f2ciKVqo&t=9s

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air–fuel_ratio_meter#Wide-band_sensors

Again, this is not measured in the intake manifold, there is an o2 sensor welded into the exhaust headers.

It measures oxygen in your headers/exhaust manifold's back piping (not your intake manifold as that's just air not air/fuel). Jonbill also made some good points.

It has an oxygen sensor ("o2 sensor") that is welded into your exhaust. All modern cars have this.

Hi guys, I just purchased an air/fuel mixture gauge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3VGPYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and was wondering where to find the number the car should read when driving/idle. Has anyone done this before? The FSM shows fuel percentages but that isn't readable on these gauges it seems. -chase

If you're talking about finding a replacement for the accordion-style spare that came with the '77/78 (and maybe ZX?) then I don't believe you can get those anywhere. Tires for the standard wheels can be bought off amazon for like $60 each so I'm not sure what he's talking about...

I actually was thinking about that, because that happened a year and a half ago and I ended up changing the alternator which solved it. The difference is this time my volt meter is reading a normal charge rate compared to before which I think was around 15v. I'll keep that in mind though next time it happens.

Well this is a new one... I was driving this evening (about 40 degrees out) and my temp gauge passed the half mark which I have never seen it do outside of 100+ degree heat with the AC on. I noticed that when I turned off my cabin heater fan, the temp gauge would drop down to where it normally sits almost immediately (a little below the half-way mark) but rose back up past the half mark when I turned the heater on again. I had a long drive so I had a chance to try this over and over again and that is oddly exactly what's going on here. I played with the temperature slider to see if max hot would change the degree of movement on the coolant temp gauge but it literally is an on/off issue. How is that possible?

It might have not been in all the way - who knows. Not sure if the dist caps were the same brand as the first one came on the car when I got it years ago.

Ya the car runs great. I put a glass of water on the valve cover the other day and got no ripples with it sitting at idle haha. So you're thinking just shut the hood and move on?

The ignition box says "jacobs electric." I took a look under the cap and it looked fine...

I have a non-stock coil/ignition box - could that be the issue? Basically could the plastic used for these caps be rated for stock coil voltage/frequency?

Thoughts on putting some ox-gard in the terminal to draw current away from the plastic?

Would wrapping electrical tape around the top of the cable's contact help?

Let me try and bulk answer the questions here haha: - I'm assuming the cap is made in china as it's from my local parts store but the wires are NGK - The cap and wires are all about a year old and not corroded at all which is the strange part. This was the case with my old cap and wires and I got the same result. - The odd thing is the car runs great with the cap/wires as-is - The boot for the center wire is pulled up for the same of the picture

Hi guys, The plastic surround of the center spark coil lead (only) on my distributor cap has melted a bit for the 2nd time. The car came with an aftermarket ignition box/coil and has run great for years. Would putting ox-gard in the center terminal help deflect some of the electricity/heat awa y from the plastic surround? Here's a picture of the melted center terminal (the other terminals don't have this problem).:

WELL here's a top tip for anyone reading this high on hubris like 'ol chaseincats - do not do this unless you enjoy being stranded lol (ask me how I know). Basically, the engine will refuse to start after it has gotten up to operating temperature when wired like this and not had sufficient time to fully cool off. This acts as a pseudo choke and it more-or-less floods the engine when starting if warm thus not allowing the car to start. It makes perfect sense when you think about it - I just didn't know the CSV pumps THAT MUCH gas into the intake manifold to create a flooded condition. Live and learn I guess.

The resistor is bolted inside the big metal fan housing and is not part of the blower motor itself if memory serves. It looks like a curly wire resembling a pigs tail - you can't miss it.

I'd get the car back in the garage if I were you lol. You can find vacuum leaks in 10 minutes with cigarettes.

Awesome, so with it setup to manually ground like this it won't continually run after the engine is running I'm assuming. Doing it just so the engine starts faster.

My end goal is to wire this so that the cold start injector fires each time I start the car, regardless of the temp. Is that even doable?