Av8ferg

Spent the last two days in Panama for work. No junkyards with Zs here and I still have my kidneys . Headed home, to rebuild that distributor.

This has been and educational discussion. After much review I’m really liking the idea of the GM HEI approach. Seems low cost, highly effective and easy to do. I’ve found there are tons of them online from various manufacturers. Does anyone have an idea which is a quality on. Read the GM (ACDelco) is a good one and it’s only $29 on Amazon. My question is as long as it a 4 pin HEI we should be good. Will put a spare in the glove box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, that was educational....

Do you mean become of the lack of a built in voltage regulator? I had a shop rebuild my hitachi alternator for $80. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, with the parts I’ve ordered I think I can pull this off. Anyone know what kind of grease Blue was using in the rebuild write up? Looked green. I need to get some and the auto parts stores sell only wheel grease. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I’ve got a bunch of parts ready to order for this distributor. I’ve never heard of these two sites but they have the parts coming from Japan https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/nissan/280zx-2130/s130-6259/s130-182367/distributor-2307135 $20 shipping for Japan in 7 days. Also found a new magnet for $9.86 plus $7.84 shipping from Japan on amayama.com https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/22158s6700 Total: $74.25 - stator # 22163-Q1700 - magnet assy # 22158-S6700 - signal rotor assy # 22115-Q1700 - coupling (plastic tip) #22119-W0400 Do you think these will be all I need for this rebuild? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You got to be willing to turn off automation as soon as the jet does something unexpected. Happens to me all the time. The MCAS system is faulty and late reaction by aircrew can put the aircraft in an unrecoverable attitude. Boeing screwed up by only putting one instrument that feed the MCAS. Should be redundant and they took the cheap route. Lastly they failed to inform the buyers how the system works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, yes one of the magnets fell apart when I tried to pull it. It was already cracked. The other one is intact but I see one hairline crack. If I pull it she’ll brake. The breaker plate for one looks good. Had some rust on bearings that I’ve cleaned and lubricated so it probably good. I’ll see if I can order the base plastic thing and get a metal one. The shafts look good to me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Since I don’t really know what you guys are talking about and I don’t have fancy tools like Captain Obvious I thought I’d post pics of my two distributors broken down. I can see some parts are bad like the plastic tips and one of the breaker plates has a broken bearing holder. The tips of the magnetic star and reluctor don’t look consistent either. I think I can order some of these parts.

Thanks CO, added them to my cart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My was cracked too. Will try and find a replacement. I fly the 757 but would have no concerns flying the Max. It’s a concern if you don’t know how to fly like many 3 world carriers. They rely on automation too much and can’t handle the machine without it when things go wrong. I flew for 25 years without an autopilot it’s no big deal. Rule #1 push down....houses get bigger, pull up....houses get smaller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What intake/exhaust studs do you all recommend? I’m very hesitant to use the stainless ones that I came with the engine bolt kit I bought. Stainless is fine for low torque applications and while resisting rust well they don’t have the tensile strength of a good carbon steel. Also not sure about stainless and aluminum expansion differences loosening the bolts over time. I also see copper nuts available at the Z store for the exhaust portion. Anyone know why they’re copper and is that the way to go? Seems like a soft metal for this application. Anyway need hardware for the new headers that will be coming. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

View Advert 280z or 280zx Distributor Looking for a functioning 280z or preferably a 280ZX distributor. If the the ignition control module (ZX version) is missing or doesn't work that's okay. Advertiser Av8ferg Date 03/08/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280Z or ZX

The car behind your Z has a header that IS hanging pretty low. Z looks good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To be honest, while the Viper screams like a rapped ape and is very reliable, in many ways I prefer the Z....or what the Z will finally be when completed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that makes money....the other drains it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great, thanks! I still need to make a few adjustments to my custom rail (copy of yours). The Rail came 24” which is too long. I need to cut it down to about 21” and retap the ends. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha! My wife is way too smart to fall for that one. She get rid of all my cars if she could and put me in 99 Honda Accord. I have a 2000 Viper that my father gave me right before he passed away. She hates to even look at it. Wants me to sell it immediately but since it’s a rare car 1 of 34, I’ve convinced her the car will be highly valuable later. She would set it on fire if she could. The Z is at another location so she doesn’t have to look at daily it but thinks it’s a piece of crap. She wouldn’t be seen in either car for any reason. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good Cliff! So I noticed you made a custom cutout for one of the heat shields? With the coated headers has it mitigated the L28 hot start problems these cars have. My ZX engine came with that odd over the valve cover blower which I have no intention of putting back on. I was considering putting an adhesive heat shield tape under the metal stock heat shield to slow the heat transfer a bit but if these coated headers really reduce the heat maybe its not required. I’m going without the bung on the headers. Does everyone agree they should fit in the P79 just like the N47 head? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m pretty good. We have a $500 policy. No single expenditures exceeding $500 without consulting the other person. If I could buy the 123ignition in 2 parts I’d be good, but that’s not in the spirit of our policy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, I’ve got time to work through this problem. If I find a good 280z distributor, is it easy to install the e12-92 module? It appears the ZX and Z distributor housings are different. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh geez.....hard to think of the future when I just what it on the road. It’s like $30 more Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay Cliff, you’ve given me the confidence this 6-1 will work. I didn’t know the 240z tunnel was smaller. That makes sense as the posts I read were referring to the 240z. Wouldn’t expect they’d be different but learned something new. Gonna order the ceramic coated 6-1. The MSA website state a difference between 1976-1978 280z and the ZX One. Both have round ports so it appears the only difference is the ZX has a spot for the 02 sensor. I should be good with the 280z version on my P79 I assume. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, that’s not good news regarding the Cardone distributor. I’m sort of expected to hear that. Lots of crap out there made in Chinese sweat shops. Maybe the 123ignition is a safer albeit expensive route. I’m going to look up replacement parts for mine ZX distributor and see if I can pull a home rebuild off. I’ve read the modules could be bad too due to proximity to intake manifold (heat). This sucks trying to find a good solution. I hate half-arse solutions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So ZH, find a good 280z distributor and work from there on a good ignition module solution. Cardone seems like the only game in town vs one from a JY. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk