Ed

What are you going to end up doing with all of this. Do you have a plan or will you have a lot of parts to sell? Like your signature says "want a 240".

Hey, what's a 300ZX?? :classic: Next are the 350's:dead:

From the pictures and what you have described it should fetch atleast 10k. Anything less would be an insult. If somebody is looking for a Zed that is this clean and ready to be shown off they should be willing to pay what she's worth. Didn't the factory authorized rebuilt ones go for 26K? Who's to say they did a better job than you???

I'd say either call the boys up at Z therapy. Or take it to a machine shop.

How is the question. I couldn't do it.

I took my shifter to a machine shop and they cut it 1-1/2". I really like it, though I can't say that I'm shifting any faster.

Thanks for the info guys! Definately gave me some more thinking to do.

Caen, I love your limo Z. I think you might have given someone an idea.:classic:

I've got a question for you guys. Sorry it has nothing to do with our cars, but this has been a place where I've always gotten good advice. I have an invention that I'm gonna try and patent. I was wondering if anyone out there has gone through this and if you had any advice. Thanks

I have the ceramic coated headers with the heat shield for the round tops. Never had a problem, even on those extremely hot days going through Arizona in the summer with the A/C running.

Like Lance said I wouldn't want anything remaining inside the combustion chamber either. If you do use the tubing make sure you use atleast a 10 inch piece. I use a piece of 1/4" fuel line. Feed it through the sparkplug hole towards the valve to be worked. Rotate the piston to secure the tube. To free the keepers I compress the spring then I tap the top of the valve stem with the plastic handle of a screw driver until it breaks free. Then if the screwdriver has a magnetic tip you can use that to retrieve the keepers.:classic:

I would think you could do it without removing the cam. Couldn't you remove the slack from the rocker arms. Then pull the rocker arms out of the way. Stick a piece of tubing in the spark plug hole (to hold the valve up) and turn the engine (by hand) until the piston pushes the tubing against the valve. Next use a spring compressor and remove the springs. MSA sells a spring compressor that requires the cam to remain on the head. If you do decide to remove the cam then get the cam chain tensioner tool. It holds the cam chain tensioner in place when there is slack in the chain. If this tensioner pops out of place you will end up having to remove the front cover. P.I.T.A!!!

The only thing I've ever got to work was using white molybenum (sp?) grease. Make sure you take the whole thing apart and lube every spot that comes in contact with another.

It was a good race I must say. Probably one of the best of the year. I guess we need to ask for rain more often. I tell you what after the first set of pits I was really confused. How did Kimi loose his lead? How did Montoya fall back so fast? Good race!

This is probably why they had so much BMW/Montoya coverage:

Alan, can we pick on the differences we notice on your second picture, the proto-2? I'm wondering if it's an illusion or does the fender (wing) blend with the headlight bucket? Maybe a one piece? And what is that dark shadow by the right rear tire? Are the bumper guards larger? Just wondering.