ramsesosirus

That's where I'm at. That's why I never really thought about the shims causing the squeal. Mine squeals pretty bad, not all of the time, but enough to be annoying (and makes me look like I need brakes to other drivers). After changing the semi metallics with organics and adding the stick on shims, I drove around the block once, and it didn't squeal, so it appears the shims do fix the issue. I just stuck them on, didn't use any brake quiet or grease. I may switch back to the semi metallic pads after a good test drive later this week. The organic pads from Autozone (Part D161, $15.99) includes 4 shims. They're not exactly the same as the OEM ones, but similar and they fit. For those in need of shims, this kit is pretty much worth it just the get the shims alone. This is the only set I've gotten that included shims. I plan to carefully pry them off and reuse them when the pads need changing. Will probably have to "glue" them on when re using them.

They are the stick on shims. I've bought several sets of pads, this "Brake best" set was the only one that included shims, the car never had them since I've owned it and the front brakes always squealed. I plan the reuse them, I'll have to peel them off the pads and use something to glue it to the new pads. Motorsport has some listed, but they are unavailable. I'm lucky the set included these, I would've never knew... Perhaps my squealing issue was more due to the lack of shims that the semi metallic pads. How exactly do the shims eliminate squealing??

Did some work this weekend, reman booster new master cylinder, new pads (organic) added shims. Rear wheel cylinders and shoes all new within the month. Been trying to solve a weak and squealing braking issue for a long time: brakes feel better, still some squeal. I swapped the semi-metallic pads with organic pads with some shims to try to quiet the brakes. Any advice on pad construction/type? The semi metallics squealed horribly, but didn't have the shims. ^^^^^^^^GREAT design by Nissan, I didn't know, but you can change the pads without removing the caliper on the early Z cars! Just compress the old pad back in with a clamp and pull them out with pliers! Easy. (Some of you know this) Also, I couldn't afford a "new" booster, some of them are expensive... Autozone was the only one that could order me one. Advance, Oreilly, and Napa all had one listed, but none available. It was about $130 including the core, you get a discount if you spend over $100 so it was about $160 for the reman booster and the "new" master with the reservoirs (not OE style lids). It is painted black too, looks nice. I would recommend this part. I think my reaction disc had fallen out of my old one, I know you can fix that, but I went with the piece of mind of a reman one since it was 40 some years old. Core was only $30 so I will just keep the stock one. Vacuum port seems to be in the stock location as well, which I've heard isn't always the case for reman ones. I feel like my rears are adjusted out quite a bit, yet don't seem to grab? Would the cylinders be able to "back adjust" if it was set too tight? how exactly should great working stock Z brakes feel? Should I be able to "lock" the brakes? Thanks in advance, and I hope this helps someone else.

I've never done this job, because I read about how hard it is... I believe it can be done without dropping the diff, but you need a system to get new oil in the cover (hoses and whatnot). I've also read that both the drain and fill plugs can sometimes be "non-removable" due to their location, almost impossible to get enough torque on them. Might be easier to drop it all and do a bunch of work all at once (if needed)

I'd agree, good thing to consider in the future. Hmm if the cylinder is supposed to slide, why then did they have a steel brake line attached to the cylinder? Wouldn't the hard line either: prevent the cylinder from moving experience stress from the cylinder moving Sounds like I need to open up those drums again and grease the cylinder sliding area. Those retaining clips were a real pain to install... can' t imagine how much move difficult they would be with grease all over! I also did my best to adjust them manually (screwdriver through drum), but the e-brake has to be pulled nearly vertical... If the e-brake turns the adjuster every time it's used, wouldn't the adjuster be "bottomed out/fully adjusted out" quickly?? I'd really just be happy to get some rear braking finally! Thanks

Cool, thanks. I've never heard of one that does this (slides), is it common? I guess if it does slide back and forth, it automatically centers itself from the force. Interesting... Thanks

Just replaced the original wheel cylinders on my stock 76 280z. The clips on the back are a pain to install. How does this type of wheel cylinder work?? There is only one piston that pushes on one shoe, the other shoe has the stationary adjustment wheel.... Most cylinders have two pistons, pushing out on each shoe. I had a picture, but it won't upload it... I don't see how both shoes will be engaged, unless the cylinder moves in the backing plate?? (doubtful). The cylinders changed on the 1977 280z to the "double" piston design... Thanks, inquiring minds want to know

I bled all 4 brakes all around last winter after replacing the wheel cylinder and master cylinder. When I say the shoes were "toast", I mean the lining was worn down to the backing/rivets.

Hi all, stock 1976 280z. I've always had issues with the brakes. Replaced the right rear wheel cylinder in the spring, it was leaking a lot. Just changed both rear shoes and springs last week. The shoes were toast. Brakes still feel like only the front (discs) are working. I verified the rear shoes are not engaging by wedging something on the brake pedal, could still turn the rear wheels pretty easily (jacked off ground). When I pull the e-brake all the way up (mine is nearly vertical), the rears do engage, and I cannot turn them. So it seems the problem lies with the hydraulic part of the brakes. They obviously CAN work, since the e-brake engages them and moves the cylinder. I believe they are not adjusted correctly (I can easily remove/install the drum), however when I tried to adjust the newer wheel cylinder yesterday (replaced in spring, less than 1000 miles on it), I could not get the "star wheel" to turn unless I removed the shoe, then it will turn. However this is useless since I need to have the drum on when adjusting? I know they are "supposed" to be self adjusting with the e-brake, but it isn't adjusting. I am really looking forward to having operational rear brakes, the stock brakes should be able to stop this light car better than it is currently doing... Any ideas on adjustment? Testing? The master cylinder is also less than a year old. I plan to check the booster next, but I know it doesn't have anything to do with the rears not engaging.

Sounds good, I think I'll do that or just use the original washer. At least someone else realizes that they aren't the original design, Thanks

Ah I finally found a kit that has the correct washers at MSA. See the image, and compare with the others. You'll see there should be 4 cupped washers for the back (2 per side), and 4 cupped "locking" washers that go on top of the spring and twist on the pin. Whoa but for that price, I might have to improvise! The Oreilly kit is $7.99.....

Thanks for the replies. Lots of good info. Would these kits below hook up to the stock harness? Is the harness below good, plug and play? Opinions on the kits I listed that I was looking at? Some of the kits I see (the Autopal's?) have a "holographic" look to the glass, I want it to be as clear and colorless as possible. Do I have to make the headlight mounting bracket bigger?

Thanks, great picture. From what I've seen, the drum brakes are the same from 70-early 76, then the late 76-78 uses a different wheel cylinder and hardware kit. I wondered how those bottom springs went on, the ends don't go the way a spring usually does (like the top one). Also, all of the kits I've seen have 4 of the "cupped locking washers" (anti-rattle) instead of 2 cupped washers and 2 cupped locking washers (the washer on the bottom should be different than the top one, the FSM shows this also). Thanks, should be enough to get mine back together! See the pics I've attached from available kits and the FSM. I can attest that the FSM is correct, mine had all original hardware. I don't see how the "new" kit shown would work with the incorrect washers... The third picture is what comes up on the Oreilly database if you search for a 1975 280z, it gives two options (late and early), which is wrong since the late and early versions actually came in 1976, where some have the rear hatch "raised floor", and others don't. Mine does not, it just has the 2 compartments behind the seats, with a manufacture date of Sept 1975 FYI.

Decided to change the rear brake shoes, I know they are due. Was given the wrong hardware kit (springs/etc...) by the local parts store. I have an "early" 1976 280z (by build date and rear compartment doors, no "raised board" panel. Their parts database had the early vs late in 1975, when it was actually in 1976 when some things changed mid-year. regardless, the question is How are the 1975-1976 280z brake shoe springs oriented? The J hooks look odd. Also, how can I install them? Lots of force in the springs it seems. Do both springs install on the "outside/front" of the shoe? I've never done drum brakes before, only disc. Thanks

Hello all, I've been searching for the past week about converting my 1976 280z to better headlights, I'm kind of leaning towards the H4 (due to cost, original lens, etc...). Do I need a new harness if I use the stock rated wattage (60/55)? Which wiring harness "upgrade" plugs in directly? Do i need it? Please explain why a relay(s) help? Could I make one myself? I'd like to keep the stock "look", so the Hellas or Autopal? Which H4 bulbs will give the best "white" light (not yellow)? Do I have to holesaw my stock housings for the connectors to fit? Where exactly am I disconnecting (and replacing/making) a harness? engine bay? under dash? Are the "E-spec" housings legal? Thanks for any ideas

Download the Factory Service Manual if you haven't already. Very good resource, available for your specific year Z. If you google "19XX 280z Factory Service Manual", you'll find it. Xenon .com or something. You have to follow the procedures if you want the Z to run right. But it will be worth it. Promise.

thanks FYI siteunseen didn't really say that stupid stuff, giving credit where credit is due. #z

Hey no prob man. My life for the past few years has been a movie. Tried to kill myself in my Monte SS, but failed and subsequently lost my job, my car, and a plethora of other things. Really, the Z has been one of my primary motivating factors. Sorry, I keep it real. So when I ask for help, and people respond constructively, I really do appreciate it. The car is running as good as ever, and looking decent as well ! I cruised for like 6 hours today. I might be high from the Z fumes.

Do you have fuel injection? You should, all Z's after 1975 came stock with it. Which means you shouldn't need or have choke. I don't even have the lever in my 76 FI 280z. Have you cleaned or had your fuel tank cleaned? Mine was rusted and blocked. If I am correct, choke is exclusive to carbs. Does it idle ok in gear? Mine idles high in park, but come down to around 1000 in gear (I set it for 700, as per the hood sticker). Is your exhaust leaking by the Tstat housing? (that is where the sensors are, too much heat might mess them up...)

Well I spent the morning doing my best to align the new outer tie rod ends with some string and measuring tapes. I think I got it pretty close, obviously I should take it to a shop, but I'd like to replace a couple more suspension components first. I'm happy to say that 99% of my steering wheel "death wobble" is gone. I still get it when I brake hard, so my next mission will be to address the brakes. Thanks for all of the replies and comments, but special thanks to siteunseen and esmit208. Siteunseen has routinely replied and offered good advice, and without esmit208 's advice on adjusting the tie rods, my dumb self would've been taking the tie rod ball joint out and turning it every time haha.

If your car is a 280z and fuel injected, I didn't think fuel injected cars could "flood". Maybe you have a weak spark/ignition. Possibly adjust your Full Throttle switch also. Clean all of your electrical connections, especially if they are "green".

Ace is the best for fasteners. You can buy them individually. Done it many times. Unless you're going for 100% original, but who's going to know? "Wait, that tie rod locking not isn't original!"..... I would get one that is a little "wider", my 280z one is pretty narrow, more room for the wrench would be better and wouldn't effect anything (except for the FSM measurement). Just changed my tie rods also. To temporarily align it, I used the "string" method, paired with dual measuring tapes to get it close. Bad alignment will eat tires. But it isn't some black magic that only shops can do: it does involve a lot of jacking up, rolling, jacking up, adjusting, and so on. HTH

Thanks, I knew there was a way to adjust without removing the outer end from the knuckle/spindle.

My reasoning for not doing tires first is that the vibration would come and go, there were a few times I was going 45mph+ and it felt smooth, no vibration or shimmy at all; I could control the wheel with one hand easily. Then I would maybe hit a bump or a curve in the road, and the vibration was bad all of the sudden. If it were the tire(s), wouldn't it be a constant issue? With every rotation? I am planning to drive it around the street a little and see if anything changed or improved, then swap the front/rear tires if there is still an issue. Regardless, i am glad I changed the tire rods, they were in pretty poor shape. I'm thinking it might be a combination of issues that I am having. I guess one advantage of replacing things yourself is that you can do several things for the cost of one item at a repair shop, even if you do "throw parts" at it sometimes.

Bought the Ball Joint removal tool and a torque wrench from harbor freight today, had 20% coupon. The ball joint removal tool works great, just remember to leave the nut on because it pops off like a gunshot when it goes. It also wont' ruin the boot like the pickle fork does, it case I need to remove them again without damaging them. Tomorrow I plan to adjust the alignment a little, seems somewhat toed out. Still have a little clicking on the passenger side when jacked up and pressing at 9 and 3, we'll see if the death wobble is improved tomorrow after work. If not, I'm thinking: Brake rotors Inner tie rods TC rod bushings Rag Joint Rack Mounting Bushings Funny thing is it didn't really have this problem 6 years ago when I blew the engine (rear main oil seal leaked all the oil on the interstate). It is a problem that seemed to develop/worsen after sitting.... Thanks for all the advice and help guys! I also love "cheater bars". No way I could've gotten those jam nuts off without them. How do I adjust the toe without removing the outer tie rod end from the knuckle/spindle thing?