Dave WM

The problem with the AFM is its not likely to every require any adjustments, there is nothing to get out of adjustment. It can wear on the carbon tracks but I doubt that ever is really an issue. It is often the thing that gets adjusted when ever there is a problem with the EFI. So Yes I would put it back to the original spot it was at when the car was running well, then look for another problem that would happen suddenly. I am assuming this problem happened "suddenly".

so it did not used to not smell like gas and got better gas mileage? did you put in fresh plugs drive it around the block and then pull them and they are black? part of the problem maybe making assumptions with out actually seeing what you are describing.

also I have to ask, I presume the air filter is in good shape.

Well what I did, and this may not apply to you, try unplugging the water temp sending unit, yes this SHOULD send the mix super rich, for me it made the car run better but was still fouling the plugs. If for some reason unplugging the sensor does not result in near instant super rich (and engine dies), then there maybe something else going on, causing the fouling not related to the mix.

Ditto, on not messing with the AFM. If the problem suddenly occurred with out any changes being made, then you want to look for a part that has failed, not adjusting something that was working fine before. I fought a long battle with fouled plugs, in my case it was a faulty ignition, my fault since it was a cobbled together system that was not OE. Point being foul plugs don't always mean rich mix. So were there any changes done to the car at the same time as the onset of the problem?

how about the cold start valve. leaking or stuck on? ZH beat me to the CSV. To be sure you could just plug the line, not really needed unless its cold as in less than 65f, above that is really should not fire.

roger that, will def block.

I can block them to see if that matters (will just clamp the hose).

looped

I was careful to remove slowly so as to bleed off any pressure build up, Did have some overflow, but not explosive like superheat water converting to steam. Before it would literally blow out maybe a gallon of water and this is when the rad was not even hot. On my last fill up I just kept adding water while it was running (after it blew out a bunch) eventually topping if off. I thought I had been doing it this way all along, but seem like this last time it worked.

in my case I am sure it was a problem, the T stat was not opening when it should, I just re ran it, this time all was good, came right up to 185 quick and stayed there. After shut down I was able to remove the cap, without any explosive burping or excessive overflow. Very little built up pressure with the temp at 185, I bet if I had a 160 in there it would have NO pressure build up. After removing the cap the water level was right up to the top of the neck. Before I am sure it was not cooling since the rad was staying cold way past when it should have been flowing water and cooling the engine down. Removing the cap was an invitation to a Mount St. Helens like event, even when the rad was cold after a short run. I will have to take a look at the angle, will check it against my car. I still think I will drill that T stat, just to be sure. Its not a Nissan one, so maybe I will just get that instead. Next up will be to get some proper coolant in there, or at least a rust inhibitor. Oh and I want to run it with the valve cover off (will have to plug the vent hose) just to see how well the oiling of the cam is going. I did NOT replace any of the gasket materiel that is in the oil squirt tube. Will do this out side of the garage since oil will go everywhere. I just like to see it working.

I am still having issues with getting the air out of the system, installed the overflow tank, and got it flowing and then topped up the rad. will keep an eye on it. I did another test this time after making sure the water was flowing thru the rad, sucked out some water with the turkey baster to make sure I did not suck up in water with the test kit. This time it did NOT change color at all. I think I may have sucked in some rad water on the 1st test. Don't know why but when I did that I got a slight color shift toward yellow. Other things I noticed is there is a strong suction force after a few pumps which tells me the system is sealed which is also good since if gas was getting in I don't think I could do that. NO evidence of water in oil, I need to get some clean water/antifreeze in so I can keep an eye on it for oil slicks. on the water temps I am looking for a quick warm up and opening of the thermostat, I think I keep getting bubbles in and then the stat does not open until soon enough. It does have a burp hole in it, I may open that up some with a drill bit.

more progress

I commend them for that, rather wait and get as perfect as possible. I hope someday the Z after market is supported the way 60's American muscle is. You can practically build a brand new 1969 Camaro from the jegs catalog.

working on a misfire using power balancing and a color tune plug.

The staying way back and then not going when green I am convinced has something to do with the iPhone use. I swear I have seen lights completely cycle with not a single car moving. I used to be pretty reserved about getting on the horn, but nowadays I think folks are using that as the que to start rolling again, and rolling slowly thru the green light while finishing up the text. 3 cars get thru when 20 should. Driving in O town is just down right crazy. My other pet peeve is the passing, I get it you don't drive in the passing lane BUT at least pass a safe distance before pulling back in front, least you kick up rocks that break the windshield of the guy you pulled in front of with 1 foot to spare, I have had 3 broken windshield by just that cause. Now I try to find a big truck that is doing the speed limit (which is slow to most people) I get in behind him with a bout a 5 second buffer, far enough to be safe, and close enough to discourage the fast passers from getting in front of me, they would rather just pass the truck while remaining in the left lane, least they lose their "spot" in tail gating train they are in.

long drive this past weekend, crazy drivers, either watching the iphones while driving, or texting (I don't look my passenger does). Down right scary. combine that with no concept of the correct distance to follow and then the "accident' (I prefer expected crash instead of accident). I used to tell my kids that if you are on a limited access highway then you can detect the idiot drivers very easy. You will see brake lights.... seriously on a limited access highway there is no need to use your brakes, just adjust your speed, give a safe buffer, and you can just ease off the gas if there is a slow down. Prob why my brakes go 100k easy. Best instant Karma of the trip, a Lexus from Texas was speeding going at least 85-90, not in Georgia fella... he got pulled over around Valdosta, Smile as I go by, (he had blown by me a few miles back). after a while here he comes again, blows past me just south of Tifton, sure enough just as I was getting ready to exit at Tifton, I see the blue lights ahead and my buddy from Texas in his Lexus, is pulled over again, I gave the trooper a thumbs up :) That DA in the Lexus just does not realize the don't mess with Texas applies in Georgia too. I hope he tried it again for a 3rd strike, some how I figure he would. One the way back massive traffic jam south of Ocala on I-75, I bailed out and got out my MAP and found an alternate route (look at map after pulling off road, memorize directions, drive home). Gee I managed without a GPS or Smart phone to somehow drive home. Never take your eyes off the road, turn off the radio in heavy traffic, watch out for the other guy, expect animals (and humans nowadays) to walk out into traffic, and you can avoid a lot of "accidents".

wow, will have to look for one in the JY!

so is this an upgrade to a 280z or a 240z? I realize a lot of folks complain about the 240z motor but I assumed most of the mods were on par with the 280z setup.

yes pls do, I had forgotten I had another thread on it.

part of the problem is my lack of a iPhone, I think they try to call using facebook phone, just does not work for me.

just got off the phone with Hung, 6-8 weeks out. the were having some problems with the mold, and want to work it out to have a quality product. Hopefully folks are purchasing to have them as a spare, and not already taken theirs off. I only have a single large crack so its not a big deal for me to wait. So will check back in 6-8 and let you all know where we are on this. I will not demount my existing until I have the replacement in hand. At that time I have to decide if it would be right to redo the entire AC. I have a brand new evap unit with a standard TVX, but mine is not leaking now so I don't know.

left a couple facebook messages, one on apr 24 and another just now. sent email today, tried calling Ivan, mail box was full. Nice guys on the phone, I only wish they would put out updates to customers that have already paid. I can understand delays, if they are explained.

raised up the rad 2" nothing burped this time, started to overflow as soon as the thermostat came on, but nothing explosive. will still test for combustion gas in rad with chem test later. another interesting find, I mentioned #6 not having much effect on idle right after startup. I put the color tune plug in, and it was a very lean looking blue, I tried the color tune in #5 and it was def richer, verge of yellow and blue. I think #6 is running lean, I may swap in another injector to see if that changes things. after warming up the loss of power when disabling #6 is less noticeable. I have it setup for a pretty lean run, the engine will stop if I remove the oil cap. I need to verify the TVS switch is on while idling. I may have bumped in while messing around when I could not get it to start early on in the process.

I presume rad height is important so that air has a chance to work out as well, I think its ok, but will check that again. Easy enough to hook up the overflow tank so will do that as well. I assume you want the water level at the rad to be slightly above the highest point (thermostat) of the engine?