Dave WM

seems like I may have it fixed

One more question, what demographic seems to be going for these cars, is it old farts like me that want a weekend driver or young guys want to hot rod something, or some mix? If its us old guys then I see market saturation as a limit to the demand, or course rust may keep the supply in line with diminishing demand if that is the case. I suspect that rust will slow down a lot as they find there way into hands of old guys like me that keep them garaged and don't drive in the rain. Better get my windshield leak fixed or I will never get it out for fear of rain.

I would sell which ever one has more rust. I don't really get the big difference in the 280 vs 240, now 260 yes, an odd bird, but a good running 280z seems like a more solid car in the 1st place. Of course I am no expert had one when I was a kid (240) got one again recently now that I am old (280). The 280 seems just as much fun to drive from what I recall of the 240, and the AC works a heck of a lot better. Oh and I don't look at them as an investment, I suspect cars like these can go up and down a lot, I bought mine cause I wanted one, did not even consider it as an investment.

here is some more starting at the begining

yep just went thru this a bit ago. Pull trans, remove rear extension, remove part 1 and 2 per diagram, tap strike rod until it knocks part 7 off (its just a press on fit) then you can replace both the o ring and the seal (3 and 5). You will have already removed 8 and 11 in order to get the rear ext off. None of this was hard. start here at about 3:10

seeing a garage is a good thing, maybe it was in there. Makes a world of difference.

its all about the rust and what you want in the end. If the body is sound then its a great deal, its a simple car to work on. If you are going to have a nice one you need a garage IMHO to store it, else the old rust monster will come and take hold. They are a lot of fun to drive. Hope it works out for you.

I liked that CRL product and the pump dispenser in the post above the video. Seems like just the ticket. I was told to stay away from silicone and ureathane. this stuff https://www.amazon.com/C-R-Laurence-Windshield-Repair-Sealant/dp/B000K40PGA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uFNHfZQ0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=5J74XZVF2JKWQ15AQ22E

think I have at least located it.

Good read. FSM clearly state use of adhesive, both when applying the gasket to the glass and then again the periphery after install. I can't see any evidence of an adhesive at all on mine (which I am sure is not the orig, its just too nice). The FSM also say to install the moulding strip AFTER the windshield is installed. I have read repeatedly that its best to install this after the rubber is on the glass but BEFORE the glass is in the car. In the A-A cross sectional view I can see how if water gets under the gasket at the body joint, its going to just sit in a V groove, not good. I am going to try getting some soapy water on the perimeter of the outside of the glass and try blowing compressed air around the the perimeter to judge just where and how bad a leak I may have. found this, looks like a nice combo https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-181AG-Adhesive-Pump/dp/B006JFM1AW/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41k3boTpP7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=6WSGM405AP4AA5ERGJHD

The seal is very pliable still. I bet its only a few years old since the paint job looks a few years old and it was painted with the gasket out (no paint lines show). I suspect its just not a tight fit to start with, which makes me wonder if its an aftermarket gasket and if so do the after markets fit tightly. I will post up some video later, and will go back and read the FSM body chapter you mentioned.

The seal is very pliable still. I bet its only a few years old since the paint job looks a few years old and it was painted with the gasket out (no paint lines show). I suspect its just not a tight fit to start with, which makes me wonder if its an aftermarket gasket and if so do the after markets fit tightly. I will post up some video later, and will go back and read the FSM body chapter you mentioned.

I am leaning towards buying the cheap gasket and doing myself unless someone chimes in that the 60$ is junk and I need to spend 300$ on the Nissan OE gasket. From what I have read its not hard but good to have extra set of hands. The problem is a leak, I hope when I remove the gasket there will not be a rust issue. I don't think there will be based on what I have seen. The leak seems to happen around the glass/gasket joint on the bottom ends. I thought about sealer but then figured if that does not work it may make it harder to remove the glass. the thing is the rubber is in good shape overall just a lose fit on the bottom corners.

Local installer wants 300$ labor, I supply gasket, has the stainless trim. He says they work on old cars knew about the trim piece right off. I experimented on removing one from a junker, seemed easy enough just cut out the old rubber gasket from the top, gently push out from inside. Seen the youtube tool using a string inserted into channel that fits on the body, then place glass with gasket (and trim in stalled) on opening and draw strings from inside to pull the gasket edge in and over the lip. So is this really that hard to do? the install that is. I am willing to spend the money if its a major pain. oh one more question, I see the gasket goes for about 50-60 most places, but then a site called vintage rubber has it for 135$ Does anyone know if the VR one is different (better) to justify the added expense? One last source was courtesy Nissan, but that was 300$ for the gasket

wrong forum pls detete

pls delete

no to the ultra sound but I have been looking into getting one. I was cleaning it some more with q tips when I found the needle would come out exposing the hole for cleaning with some paint gun spiral brushes. I used those on it. The needle is actually a rod with a ball on the end. The ball is what you see after removing the brass set screw and spring. There was no change in the flow after more cleaning, so I think I am about as good as its going to get. My current AC setup is working well so will put this away for now. I need to get back to the transmission swap, been putting that off to get little stuff out of the way.

On the 1975 the two wire sensor is for the ignition timing during warm up OR on California cars (like mine) to turn of the EGR during warm up. I am pretty sure the 1 wire was for the cooling fans used to cool the fuel rails on later models. The one wire one is the one that can be modified to work since it has a long body that can house the thermal switch. The one that came out (did not work) is very stubby and mostly hollow (there is no room for the aftermarket switch element).

more testing

hmmm that was interesting (have video will post later) on the deep cycle vacuum pump the old one at 1st did not seem to be effected by cooling with dust off liquid. smacked it a few times on the side of a wood bench and it seemed to come alive, Not as vigorous as the new one but it did def react. Maybe the charge is ok and what the real problem is more rust at the valve needle.

I used your photo, that is exactly 9mm down. I tried the freezer test, I could not tell any diff in the air flow when blowing thru it between 77f (room temp) and 0f (freezer), at least not real noticeable. I am going to try it with the new one as well. Ok update, the new one responds to the freezer (will shut down completely) the old one seems to have no effect, so that's it, old one is toast, I suppose its either lost its charge or there is something (rust) that is not allowing it to close up. I found an old thread on this same deal, turns out guy had same thoughts about trying to disable (wide open) the stock TVX and install one up stream, even got into the same 90 degree bend issue. Since this is just a spare part I happened on, will just forget it for now. Its not in my nature to quit on something but this is a long shot to impossible to repair (the tvx). I will conduct a few more experiments, like drawing a vacuum on both thru the inlet just to compare, just some fun stuff to do.

wanted to share this.

Took my date to the prom in one back in 76

Well the plan is to see if I can stop it with sealer 1st just to make sure that is the issue, then I will get to sourcing the rubber and if needed (hope not) the windshield (just in case things go bad). It was fun going around the hood with Cpt O, skyjunk is indeed a fun place to spend some time.