Dave WM

well I will assume the most likely suspect would be the one that handles the most power so I will start with checking the power transistors to see if something has shorted out. Problem is all the plugs were fouled, I would assume that would be something up stream of the power transistors since IIRC each one fires 3 injectors so with all the plugs fouled both would need to be defective. With out a schematic and a LOT more info on how to diagnose it seems unlikely that I could trace the issue down.

took the Z out, odd rough idle, that was new, start down the street, can't hold idle stalls out finally get it started and nurse it home. Pull the plugs super carbon fouled, cleaned them, try starting again very hard to start, would not idle then dies. fuel pressure check, 36 psi during cranking, so at least the FPR and fuel supply/returns are providing the correct static pressure. Spark looks good and strong. thinking it maybe a stuck open cold start, I remove it to see if it fires (should not its hot) it does not but the car runs fine with a massive air leak at the cold start hole. plug it up and the engine dies. So clearly its running rich. The only other diagnostic I run is the water temp sender. It test ok about 360ohms (hot engine). Decide to cut to the chase, swap in a spare ECU, starts right up. runs fine. So the plan is to open the old one up and look for any obvious looking failed parts. I sure am glad I had that spare ECU...

with that picture of the parts, it was the front vacuum seal on mine that was bad.

thanks, sorry for the shakes, its hard to hold still while trying to aim and work inside a cramped space.

once you get the trim pieces off its easy to fish them thru. I used a large wire loom finisher (the kind with a split down the middle, made from hard plastic) to act as a conduit from just under the vapor separator to the last hole on the bottom of where the wire exits the body and runs along the floor behind the passenger seat. Not my best video but shows a little bit more

on mine it turned out to be a seal on the piston. Did not have to take apart to get it, I prob could have fixed it but by then I had already gotten a replacement and installed it. Does it leak at all?

Just follow the speaker cable wire, you will need to remove the trim piece on the back passenger side and the trim pieced under the quarter glass, that will give you the access to the holes in the body, from there you can just follow the same route.

no water leak, no rust, just some cracks starting in the orig sealer, a few small chunks missing.

I need really much smaller hands or longer fingers anyway its all buttoned up now, used some SS screws like one the sill plates. I will check on it if I see any signs of failure, at least it should be easy to scrape off.

too late plumber putty was done right after I posted. the cover is removable so will check on periodically and report back. Patcon the prob with any kind of sealant that is even remotely sticky to hands is the problem of getting it in place in the back of the chimney. I had to work it with my hands/tools/anything I could lay my hands on to try and form it. I ended up using a plastic dowel to reach the last bit that I could not squeeze my hands into. I don't think I could have enough control with a delivery system that used a tube. I know plumbers putty never hardens, I painted over it anyway. The Lumens stuff looks like a good way to go. I was planning on using my butyl caulk but after using it on the windshield there was no way I wanted to mess with it with limited access. It hugely messy and gets everywhere.

I swear I have some kind of mental block on saying PCV , way to hang in there for the whole thing, I tend to ramble... Now that I have the orig air boot sorted out, I am in no hurry to mess with it. I am going to see if I can fab up a flame arrester from a spiral wire brush, seems like all it is (if I cant turn one up at the JY)

my cure for you insomniacs

I got the inspection plate off, video coming, looks pretty good, but I would like to freshen up the seam sealer around the base. I have some butyl seam sealer that would work great where I can get to it but the back and the side towards the middle of the car have very limited access. I am thinking plumber putty, make up a rope of it and snake it back then work it in.

That's a factory evap, she does not have any of the factory housing. One thing too remember also is you are gambling on the TVX being good.

Good luck with it, I am pulling for you!!

after re looking at the orig pics I realize my condenser (front of engine) would only be a benefit if you had a stock setup (forgot yours was after market). It very hard to give advise remotely, its really going to be up to your mechanic as to what course of action. I see 3 things possible. work out new aftermarket setup issues (fitment of radio and working of ac unit) Fix orig aftermarket (much harder to source parts). Return to completely stock (very hard unless you have a complete donor car to pull from, and then you still need to make sure those parts are good). to do this you would need to search CL in your area and buy a real cheap rusted out body, haul to mechanic, let him rob what is needed (controls/mag valves/hard lines/evap/housing/compressor mount etc...). I have seen cars in the 500 to 800$ range to accomplish this. This is a major league thing so it prob the most difficult path. Its really going to be up to what you mechanic has to say.

looks like could be a hole in the evap. best bet would be to put controls back in place as they were, pull evap and get into contact with some suppliers about a replacement. Hopefully the only prob with the orig sys was the evap. I just cant under stand how it could have been so badly damaged. I am assuming of course that pic is of the evap, its too close to determine actual location (under dash, or in front of rad). Core material looks like evap.

Jai the evap is in the dash the condenser is in the front of the car. Did the Evap have a big hole in it? it would be hard to tell since its up under the dash.

well if any of you have a line on that flame arrestor let me know. going to start my hunt of one soon.

that's right I forgot it had an AC before. Ok since the aftermarket did not work for sure just get a new compressor, prob drier, and condenser. I have an extra condenser (long story) that I can make a good deal on for you if yours is bad and you end up needing a OE type. FYI the condenser is generally where you are going to get leaks as its in harms way at the front of the car. I just hope nothing irreversible was done to the existing evap and ducting as part of the attempt a the aftermarket (I can see the aftermarket stuff installed where the orig controls were).

I am pretty sure it would, I don't thing there were any real changes until the ZX from the 74-78. Certainly easier than trying to engineer a after market unit into place. There can still be issues of course, like a good evap and TVX, but that's just the way it is working on 40 year old cars. Did redbirds car ever have AC in it? I don't recall the history.

IMHO Your best bet would be to look for a donor junker and get a complete factory indash unit, you can get by with non factory compressor/condenser/drier, but for inside the factory evap seems the way to go. Sorry the aftermarket one did not work out for you.

yep, I am thinking about it, but my old unported boot with the spring inside is really very good. It was just the kink that was bothering me. I will prob end up buying a new ported eventually to make use of my later model plumbing I was able to get. For now I will be looking for that flame arrester.