Dave WM

I mentioned the possible swap of the bullet connectors for the thermotime and temp sensor, this may have been brought up before. You also should get a better DMM, get one with auto setting on the ohms, a lot easier to work with. Don't go pulling the ignition switch yet, you need to get to the bottom of the ohm readings 1st.

there are two issues going on here poor idle etc... prob a rich/lean fuel condition. Continue to search out the sensor that is the problem and resolve it. could also be a EGR allowing exhaust gas in at idle. second issue is the intermittent die, this is going to be harder to find, as mentioned isolate to fuel or spark. I mentioned in your video leaving a visual spark test tool installed for now so you can quickly check next time it dies. You will need to have someone help you by cranking while you get out and look for the flash in the test tool, or just bring a spare plug along and be ready to use it. Practice using it so you know exactly what it should look like when the car is working. loss of fuel could be and I do mean COULD be an ignition switch issue. Check it before just replacing and if you do replace check the new one before installing. for me the problem was difficult starting, not cutting out while driving, but it would not be impossible for a defect in the continuity of the "run" circuit I suppose. Seems like if that were the case you notice issue with other electrical so this is a long shot. DONT just replace unless something test bad, that's just throwing away money.

did not hear anything yet, last contact was about a week ago.

I am pretty sure I have enough parts (drive line and steering rack) then I could made a all wood vehicle, that would get the HOA to quacking :) I was thinking the same about a radiator. I see a lot of videos of folks starting up diesels the same way, no radiator. when I do my test stand I think I may just hook up a garden hose to it and let the water flow thru the engine and dump out on the ground.

Thanks ZH, JSM and Av8ferg have already offered up some if I fail a this attempt. I just went out to garage, one of the injectors (a working one no less) had one of its copper teeth completely eaten up by I presume the long exposure to the cleaning solution, did not figure on that. But one of the other started working, so I have 5 that are clacking, no ideal if they will flow. I will see if can get one more from JSM as he is local to me and then setup a flow station (the fuel pump and stock rail) to see if they flow. I will keep you in mind if the other that have been offered turn out to have issues.

must have been the way I imbedded it. try it again, but go the beginning, for some reason it starts right in the middle.

I am thinking of making a small tool, it seems the pin you see is attached to a larger dia inner piston, If I get some brass (easy to machine) I could drill a center hole to fit over the pin, then turn a "hammer" end that fits the OD of the plunger a tiny bit smaller than the fix part of the injector. that would allow me to really bang on it. I direct strike on the pin would just bend it.

I am still working on them 4 are clicking loudly, 1 a soft click the other still stone quiet. I have them soaking in the nasty stuff they sell in 1 gallon paint cans with a basket, they have been in there for a couple days at about 1.5 amps which is way more than needed, but at this point its just an experiment.

I like this guys setup. I did not realize the adapter plate would be strong enough to hold the starter.

I posted in your video, did not see the link here. anyway do a power load test, disable one injector at a time (un plug the connector) and listen for the effect on the idle. If you or more do not cause a big drop in RPM then suspect them. If you find a suspect, I would do a compression check, spark check, and of course a fuel delivery check. I even bought one of those color tune clear plugs just so I could look at the combustion. Does the white smoke every go away? if its cold it could just be condensation of water from the combustion process. Have you seen any oil slicks in the Rad? any evidence of water in the oil pan? You could also try one of those testing units they sell at NAPA that look for combustion gases in the rad, draws air up thru a blue fluid from the top of the rad, if the fluid turns yellow, there is combustion gas present.

if your checking out the engines on site, you could bring a breaker bar and a socket, and do a quick on site compression check. I was able to get about 50-70 lbs just by a single vigorous pull. check and see how well balanced it is.

Looking for some in the central florida area or all of SE for that matter.

make sure about the firing order.

trying something new, I have a working injector zip tie the body to a non working. Hoping the vibes from the working one will help jar loose the non working one.

thanks ZH that is what I was thinking. I do a flow test to see volume more than anything. Measure out the amount of fluid over a period of time.

I must have grabbed the wrong pic. it would be the hole observed from the unassembled injector that you would see if you removed the filter and look down the inlet.

success. Tried the banging, no joy, used a bolt extractor, the drill bit that came with it was a perfect fit, so I tried the bolt extractor, got it to bite used some vice grips to hold it and then bang on them (think slide hammer) still nothing. then I just took the same drill bit and tapped it into the center body (went pretty deep) seemed to catch on something, used the vice grips and in a process of banging, twisting I heard it free up. hook back to the tester and buzz away. put it back on the juice (see the video) pulled a vacuum and it would suck up the PB blaster. I could control the flow by turning it on and off. going t let it soak in the PB blaster for a while with it running. Will try the remaining 2 that are stuck and eventually use cleaner and spray to check spray pattern.

giving it a try now (bang top on bench) will report back

is that a threaded hole in this pic? I removed the filter and can see what looks like a hole, maybe that one, and if threaded, perhaps a screw can be inserted to use as a tool to pull back on the plunger.

looks like if you could get a cylinder shaped pushing tool over the needle (to avoid damage) but inside the body you may be able to tap the plunger. I am sure trying to push it on the needle itself with enough force to break the jam would no doubt damage it. I am wondering about that ebay ad now as it seem there is no way to disassemble with out destruction. It all seems to be crimped together, not intended to be serviced. I also doubt a tool thin enough to do what I am describing would be strong enough to exert the force needed as well. Oh well I will keep soaking an running the 1/2 wave current thru them just to see what happens.

here it is

there was a ebay ad for remanufactured 280z injectors. The ebayer insisted that they do it right, even had pictures of a disassembled one. It was hard to tell exactly what was there but it did look like the correct injector. had the long pin, some kind of circlip etc... internals. I was always under the assumption that they can NOT be disassemble with out destruction. they seem to be crimped together. I never followed up on the ad since I decided to just get mine cleaned at a local marine shop.

This works to unstick, I just assumed it would not work other than as a cleaner? Follow up on the all night soak in PB blaster (injector body soaking in cup, and have PB blaster in the inlet fuel line. After all night none of them freed up, I bumped the current up to about .8 amps. The bodies were a little bit warm to the touch after the all night, so I will keep a close eye on the temps at the higher current. It would be nice to know exactly what is the failure, gummed up old fuel or rust. My guess is fuel but that is just a guess.

I will give the shock treatment another try. Good point about the area of the pintle restricting just how effective pulling a vacuum is.

This is off the intake manifold on my spare engine. I am toying with the idea of trying to get it running on the existing parts to base line it before any decisions are made as to rebuilding the engine. So 1st order of business is to get the fuel injectors working. So far I am up to 3 working. here is a video of my setup to unstick some frozen injectors. The 3 remaining hard cases are now off the rail so I can get some PB blaster down the inlets hoses. The one under suction did NOT come unstuck. I will run them for several hours and see if anymore come unstuck. If not I will try the suction approach again, but will use my 2 stage vacuum pump rather than the little hand held job. I was hoping the reverse flow would work better since I presume there is spring loaded plunger that would be pulled up by the vacuum, assuming its stuck down (closed). I did try rapping them with the back of a large screw driver, in an attempt to shock break them. I also have the bolt buster induction heater, that seems like a last ditch method as I have no idea of how it would effect them. I could try holding the large body in the center of a ring and give it a few seconds just to see what happens.