Dave WM

and nasty

are you sure its the injector and not the wire connection to the injector? They often become corroded and you end up with poor contact of the pins. I don't know exactly what is done to refurbish injectors, they don't look to be rebuildable other than replacing the small filter screen and plastic cap on the tip. There are places that offer cleaning services if its just a matter of improving the flow.

I hooked up the ign to the installed distributor, pulled all the plugs out, ahd hook them all up. Now these are the plugs that were in it and look terrible, but still some seemed to have a much hotter spark than the others. I will invest in some new plugs, hold off on wires until I actually test fire it and see how things go. I tried to video it in the dark with the idea of being able to see them in slow mo, but the video quality was so bad I did not publish it. I will go to the local auto parts store and get the plugs tomorrow. maybe give it a try. Just have to remember to torque the flywheel bolts, and make sure I did not leave any unplugged lines on the intake manifold. The plan will be to monitor vacuum, oil pressure and fuel pressure during the 1st start.

injectors go Click! No magic smoked released from the ECU.

Nice work, that's where I want Dat boi (my 75) to get his body and paint work when its time. Would be nice if someone in the SE did that quality of work.

oh forgot to ask, are you still having NO effect with the idle adj? that one reduces idle CW increases idle CCW, its an air bleed system not a throttle plate position set. Also did we ever address the AAR its sort of a idle up air bleed for when the engine is cold. But the real problem is still the excess fuel anyway you cut it, badly carboned new plugs after a short run would tend to say the EFI is allowing too much on time for the injectors.

a couple things on that vacuum reading, the 17" or higher, that will be on a warmed up engine, I noticed mine is about 15" right after startup, works its way up to about 17".It also presumes an optimal running engine (highest RPM for most closed position of throttle plate). Ign timing will effect it as well since that again effect over all efficiency of the engine as an air pump. I am not surprised the vacuum is not as good as it should be given the poor state of the A/F mix. He is down the normal A/F mix problems we all suffer from after drift of sensors/corrosion on a open loop EFI system.

did not know that there was a video game base on it. the only video game I haver had was Atari with all the "modules" like tanks etc...

space madness was the best episode of all of them.

found a better clip

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=space+madness&&view=detail&mid=CB6E254B304F48D69961CB6E254B304F48D69961&&FORM=VRDGAR

Narrator: Oh, how long can trusty Cadet Stimpy hold out? How can he possibly resist the diabolical urge to push the button that could erase his very existence?! WILL his tortured mind give in to its UNCONTROLLABLE desires?! CAN he withstand the temptation to push the button that even NOW beckons him EVER closer?! WILL he succumb to the maddening urge to eradicate history?!? At the MERE PUSH of a SINGLE BUTTON! The beautiful, SHINY button! The jolly CANDY-LIKE button! WILL he hold out, folks?!? CAN he hold out?!?!?

I know I will prob not be able to resist the temptation (vague reference to a ren and stimpy cartoon with stimpy pulling guard duty over the button that can change history....

You guys should check out MUSTIE1 on youtube, love his videos that begin with "will it run" some good stuff there. Just saw him do a old diesel. I often think that if I found a Z shell or some SBC converted thing I would love to try to stuff a LD28 or even an RD28 in one. How cool would that be, bet I could get 40mpg out of one.

just yaking with Jeff about it. I so want to go out there and give the dizzy a twirl to see if the injector will click. I got the garage all cleaned up to keep the boss happy, got her car back inside. Will prob try the injectors tomorrow at lunch, then may grab some stuff I need to finish up from JSM (jeff). Thinking some kind of muffler hookup and a radiator.

you want to make sure the TPS sensor is working per the FSM, its on at idle, then off just off idle, until about 1/2 throttle movement, then on again . think its pin 2 to ground (on at idle, off as you move away from idle) and then pin 3 to ground (on about 1/2 and up to full throttle).

So now on to more test, this time you want to move on to the water temp sensor, check a the 36 pin connector, compare to the FSM. this is important since you don't wan to have the thermotime and water temp sensor leads mixed up. Reading at the 36 pin connector make sure wiring is correct and connection are good. After that you want to check the AFM air temp sensor and the Static reference resistance readings I think its 6&9 one of them should read 100 ohms. Also if not already done clamp off the fuel supply to the cold start valve. You don't want to be leaking. If its clamped it can't let any fuel in, even if it is defective.

getting close..

Note I used two different gauge types not the same exact gauge x 2. The theory being its un likely that two completely different gauges would both be wrong and have the exact same wrong reading. If you bought two of the exact same brand/type/function, I suppose there is a possibility that a manufacturing defect could effect a single lot of product. Just something to consider. ANY kind of gauge that you could rig up would be fine. in this example I used a oil pressure gauge. I had to get creative hooking it up since the treads for the oil gauge were not compatible with my T adapter I used for the fuel pressure gauge. Any generic gauge with a decent sized readout would be fine.

I am going out to the garage and see if I have one of those gauges like you have just for fun. The hardest part about remote diagnostics is the remote part. It can be frustrating when you cant actually be there and feel/smell/touch parts that may give a clue. No reflection on your effort, its just hard to do. Some times you go down rabbit holes, but eventually most of the time it gets sorted out, often with something simple. as far as AFM, there are test that can be run, but again no reason to start down another path until this is resolved one way or another (fixed or ok all along and just a gauge issue). The new FPR seems to be reacting to vacuum since it doe change pressure downward so that's good.

I think I have that exact gauge (not the same one I used on my test) will try it out as well to see if there is any difference.

only other far out possibility is a Godzilla pump putting out so much volume it just overwhelms the system. I am going to do some test on volume as well (a timed measurement). outside of that I am all out of suggestions.

yea try the OE one. see if you get the same results. What you got from the test is you get the same high pressure reading with out the rail so its NOT a rail restriction issue. If you watch my video early on you see how its supposed to act, jump right to 38 psi and hold there. 1# rule of diagnostic, make sure your test equipment is in good working order. I hope it is the gauge at this point since there are no other options to pursue.

I will do the same tomorrow. how did the flow look? was it coming out like a fire hose?