Dave WM

Just get some run time on it, agree with Patcon, the numbers can improve with use as the rings get use, carbon gets burned up etc...

ok maybe I missed something you have z parts cars? what is the deal with them?

I always wonder about project cars, I see filled panels (no bumpers) stripped out interior, why was the project stopped, if its does not take a lot to complete it, why not finish and then sell. I would much rather find a car that was completed, done right, and pay more than an incomplete project.

yes cowls are no big deal, things like interior can be a problem. I still stand by the idea of saving more money and getting something closer to already done and as stock as possible.

trans will be 150-1200 all depends on if you get one from a junk yard or rebuilt. clutch prob 400 getting a pedal box and installing it... wild guess 500

there is no way of knowing without going to see it in person, bring a magnet, get under it, take it for a test drive. Right off I can see its missing the cowl piece, not a big deal, just one more thing that will need to be looked into. If nothing else you see Zs pop up so you don't have to take whats out there RIGHT NOW. And yes you will have to do some traveling esp if you are in a hurry. Door panels can be gotten, not sure about 260's

Ok one thing I forgot, I did have some exhaust manifold leakage, and some valve cover gasket leakage (oil dripping on manifold). I tightened up the exhaust manifold stud nuts and replaced the valve cover with a new OE gasket. Zero leaks from either of those now. I failed to mention as I could not see how that could effect a gas in coolant test. It did happen between the bad and good results, So it was an event, just something I don't see as a cause of the effect.

color change seems to be fixed, I did nothing between when it was changing to now. Never found a smoking gun. orig check out of the engine before any work showed color change repeatable. replaced HG used orig N42 head (the one on the bench), still color changed repeatable. The orig HG looked fine, it looked OE, used a felpro. I did what I consider a good job of cleaning the block deck and the head before reinstalling with the new gasket. No smoking gun. replaced HG AND head (to the MN47) still color changed on several tries days apart, then tried some more after a few more days, no more color change, repeatable. It bothers me since I have no event between color change and no color change, hence my gift horse comment in the video. I would of course much preferred something I could attribute the no color change to directly. Perhaps it would be prudent to try it a few more times before I tear down the setup, just to confirm the no color change. This video is pretty short but the stat was def open and in the previous no color change test runs the engine had been running for at least 20 min maybe longer (fully warmed up).

wet plugs means getting gas, good. agree with CO, sounds more like an ignition problem. put crank at #1 TDC make sure cams are bunny ears (both up, valves closed, firing position). Confirm rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap. I assume you have a timing light, use it to make sure timing is about 10 degrees advanced.

prob 118k or 218k unless there is documentation to support 18k, the odometer only went to 99,999 before restarting. The thing about rust is what you don't see, so if you see any there is prob a lot more hiding. These cars did not have good rust prevention when new, lots of layers of spot welded sheets. This is why is so important to get up close and personal tapping around listening for dull thuds (not good). Never know how someone will react in a nego situation. Some may take offense to a low offer and just tell you to get lost. So you really have to be able to explain that its you taking the gamble, hence the need for a low amount, unless you can get a really really good evaluation to minimize the risk. IF it truly is a low to no rust car then the asking price may be ok. The market will determine that (you said it has not sold for 6 months, if the price has not changed, the market has spoken).

the FI's are prob ok, as long as they are clicking. the problem will be on the CTS, corrosion equals resistance, resistance in that circuit increases on time for the injectors. I still bet you get an open reading (infinite resistance).

do you hear the injectors clicking when cranking the engine?

final run, come and get it Jeff!

best to let someone else respond to that one. I don't thing good welding comes cheap.

z is better than those anyway when you consider cost of maintenance insurance and overall value. If you are in a hurry and just cant wait to be driving you could try nego the 280z down to about 8k that will give you some wiggle room to fix known rust (I really would look hard at the tail hatch area, battery and esp if there is ANY rust on the inside of the passenger side fire wall. That would indicate a leak at the air chimney, so when it rains you get water coming inside the passenger side. Not and easy fix at all. Old mustangs had the same problem but it was on the driver side. I also would insist on getting it on a lift, with a good strong flashlight. Don't want to see another project car due to body work out there. Again I can not understate the problem of rust, frame rails, strut mounts, floor boards, it all adds up to major money.

Yep, start with cleaning those up. Use some fine sandpaper like 220 grit, rolled into flat, or better still some paint gun spiral brushes, some deoxit, and clean clean clean both the male and female parts of all those connectors. Don't forget bullets on the thermotime and CTS sub harness. You really should replace them, but for now a cleaning will suffice to at least resolve the issues. the dried up rubber seals will just let them corrode again soon. there are kits you can buy that will replace the connectors, you needs some solder skills and be sure to do neat work with proper solder technique.

if you are going to pay to have the work done, you need to adjust your expectations of cost, be prepared for 15-18k and by the best 280z you can find. with that you should find an example that requires little to no work. It will be more that double that if you get a project that needs work to complete and pay someone to do it.

wonder if it was stored in a garage, that is huge in Florida due to all the rain.

well that's the deal. Rust will eat $$$$ in no time, you really have to get a good look and keep that in mind. you could spend 10k in no time at all getting body and paint if rust is a problem. I would not buy a Z unless I could get it on a lift and really inspect it up close. If you are a skilled body man, ok, but if you have to pay for it look out. What's the deal on the 240, just another stalled out project car? Too bad. Don't get all hyped up about changing suspension until you have driven in stock form. Save money for body and paint, maint, etc... generally stock setups just need now carts, cheap, stock brakes are very good, the whole darn thing is very good, better to save for maintenance since you are on a tight budget.

that last pic with the open hatch looks like problems in the corners, known to rust there.

depends on the rust. You really have to know where to look. check under carpets for floor board rust, check frame rails, esp under the brake booster, check the rear hatch bottom corners, check the doglegs for filler (magnet), check under the battery, see if it leaks (get in it for a hard rain storm, look for leaks inside the firewall.

The 240 is the best deal IF its low rust, get an engine for it and do you thing. then the 280, IF low rust in the problem areas, gets you on the road pronto. forget the 260 unless you know how to do metal work, 260's are not very desirable.

if they are truly perfect, the 10k would account for any rust removal that may have been done. You can find deals at your price range, you just have to keep looking and pounce on it when it comes up. And be prepared to drive, I drove 8 hrs (one way) to get mine. I had a LOT of pic of the underside before committing to it.

3 most important things No rust No rust No rust Unless you are a good metal fab person anyway. Engine and trans are not that hard to come by. 1000$ would prob get you both with some shopping around. I like EFI but some folks don't, just depends on your level of understanding electrical stuff. 280z is a heavier, car, better value since 240's tend to be much higher in prices for good ones. That being said I like the heavier 280z since I think they tend to be a bit more comfortable. South florida means AC is a must unless you like to sweat. In that case a 280z is much more desirable since its AC is more refined and just works better. 240's it was an after thought, 280's was designed for it. Less customized the better, unless you know the guy that did it, did it right. Stock will be better since you can use the FSM to trouble shoot. Manual is more generally more desirable, but if you had a nice auto rust free, that would be ok, if you want it manual it can be converted. on last thing, NO RUST (actually less rust, no such thing as no rust) see if you have a Z guy near you to look at the known trouble spots.

if your are reading how to do the test you will already know this, but just in case you missed it. Before disconnecting the 36 pin connector turn off the ignition, and disconnect the battery. Its a bit of over kill doing both but you don't want any possible voltage spikes from connecting and disconnecting the ECU with voltages present. Exercise care when probing the 36 pin connector, you don't want to deform any of the sockets by sticking a prob in forcibly. if you have not already don't forget the importance of making sure the connections under the hood are clean. Corrosion is a big problem, You may seen green corrosion on a plug end, it often will creep up a wire. Take pics of anything that looks like that so we can see. We are depending on you to be the eyes and ears. its very hard to diagnose things remotely with out using your senses (no OBD with these old cars).