Dave WM

I am sure it will be fine, just want to let you know about the stuff, I tried it and its great. Glad to hear you plan to use the test stand, I really like making sure everything is up to snuff, and after a big time rebuild, I can see how it would be even more important, esp if you don't do rebuilds everyday for a living. I got all hung up on that combustion gas leak in the coolant, so do that test as well.

yep that's the stuff https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/

well the problem is it was such a sudden change, I just can't account for why it suddenly reads about 10-15 psi lower that it was a week ago. The gauge acts the same as always (as you mention slow response etc...) just a lower reading once I get to a prolonged steady RPM.

SROP syndrome,,,, Normally when engine is cold (70's f) starting the engine I get up to about 2/3 of the 90psi scale, as it warms up I am around mid point for typical driving. Idle drops down to about 1/8 scale. The other day I noticed the oil pressure never really gets much above the mid point regardless of RPM or temp. Idle pressure seems about the same. A mechanical gauge was used and blipping the throttle would get it up to about 55 psi, idle was about 15psi iirc. Only recent work done was the replacement of the timing cover/timing chain/guides and tensioner. New oil pump gasket (felpro) used in conjunction with the timing cover having to come off. The pressure was fine after this work done weeks ago. the SROP only happened in the past few days. I have a new Nissan oil pump on the way, I tried a different sending unit (the one off my spare engine) and I have a brand new beck arnley unit to try out as well. I cant account for the sudden drop as normal wear, so any ideas on mechanical failures to account for it? I doubt it could be the pump but they are not expensive so will give it a try. Also will use a Nissan pump gasket. I removed the valve cover, pulled the plugs and cranked the engine. It took a while but there was a generous amount of oil squirting out of the cam lobe oiling tube, enough to actually squirt out, not just dribble out (like I remember when testing before). I also pulled the cap off while the engine was running and a great deal of oil was indeed getting sprayed, base on what was ejected from the open valve cover. I plan to use a fitting that will let me attach both the sending unit AND a mechanical gauge so I can calibrate the electrical gauge. It just bother me that there seems to be no single event that I can account for the SROP indicated.

FYI, just a little bit of the gasket maker, and install quickly along the bottom edge per the book. You don't want it creating a gap by starting to setup. If I was doing over again I would use the Permatex anaerobic stuff, stays liquid (more like gel actually) until after assy, then setups up in absence of air. I doubt its a big deal but just saying that is how I would roll today after using some of the stuff. think its call 513 or something like that. I ended up using the after market with the slide in parts, no leaks (I checked it recently when I found my main seal leaking do to my poor install the 1st time.

here is a pump showing the 3 long bolts

On hot running, put a thermometer in the rad, get a direct reading of the water temps. Start cold so you don't open a hot rad. start car. let idle, confirm reading on gauge to thermometer. Mid range on gauge is 185f, just get it to that point and see what the thermometer says. IF its accurate then you have a problem. At 75f you should not go over 185f. possible problems 1) bad or wrong T stat, beware, the bolts that hold the top cover on it can corrode and break upon removal. Don't go gorilla on it. If it does not want to come off you may need to heat them. 2) plugged rad (look at the tubes for build up on the inside by the neck) 3) low on coolant (incorrect burping of air may allow for poor flow or low coolant). 4) bad pump (can corroded and lose pumping ability) 5) Missing shroud (given the history it was prob "deleted" in some effort to go fast) This will show up when sitting in traffic, heats up, then temp drops once you are on your way. 6) bad fan clutch 7) slipping fan belt 8) badly plugged up engine cooling system from years of abuse That's about all I can think of. If you have not already done this, at least check pump for lateral play in the shaft and/or weeping from the weep holes. grab the fan and try to shake it, some movement may be from the clutch, but if you think the pump shaft is moving, you should get a new pump. I would put a new pump in regardless unless I knew for sure when it was last done. And get one with a cast impeller not the stamped steel kind. I just like those better. Warning replacing the pump may result in BROKEN bolts, esp the 10mm long one that goes into the engine block. I would research how to remove stuck bolts if it seems to resist at all. If you break that bolt the only cure is to remove the timing chain cover to get access and then its still not easy. The 3 long bolts on the water pump are what pull the TC case up tight against the water passages into the block, so you really want them all installed and torqued to spec. A good general service maybe all you need if its running hot. Consist of New pump New T stat flush, new coolant, new belts and hoses. maybe a new fan clutch if the old one is suspect at all.

yep just keep cleaning, If you find anything at all like that in any of the EFI you will have problems. I assume you have taken a close look at all the injector/AFM/other sensors and looked for any blue/green stuff. It all needs to be clean. the thing about the early EFI is they are dumb in that there is no learning or compensation going on. It like wearing blind fold while some one guides you thru a maze. If the person yelling out directions is not optimal you will be banging into walls.

No AAR will make starting a bit of a pita, you will have to prob feed it some throttle to give the extra air it needs, but not a huge deal. The stock FI is designed to operate with no user input, just turn the key to start with no other inputs. Then you can drive it immediately. With so much deleted it will require some more work on the driver to compensate (that is once you get the hooks for the temp sensor worked out). After you get it starting with some degree of reliability and correct mixtures, you can start acquiring the missing parts (like the AAR and a working CSV) to ease the work load on the operator.

here is a short video of a stock harness, maybe help you figure out what you have and or are missing

Maybe a close up pic of the harness as is would be in order. See what you are working with.

Pop for the NISSAN OE switch, about 40$ shipped IIRC, not the aftermarket one, they go for about 25$ shipped, not worth the savings.

I got money on the IGN switch, I know its new, but was it checked before installing. let me summarize what I think is the situtation Runs fine if started with starting fluid. So all systems needed for operation work fine BUT for START functions of START FUEL pump ON IGN relay ON (ECU power and pump) CSV ON (if cold, but its not cold so OFF in this case) SPARK ON. Starter ON All of these are controlled by that START selection on the key switch. My guess is one of those is not happening hence the need to monitor them all while someone cranks it to isolate. monitor fuel pressure, monitor spark, monitor injectors (clicking).

So far so good. I used brand new bolts, the ones that came out were pretty gunked up, perhaps that is why the old pump did not leak.

some autozone brand, it has the cast impeller. I filled it up and burped it, got up to operating temp, so far no leaks. which is way better than the 1s time. Only diff is I used the thead sealer (thick white stuff) on the problem bolt. I have the old pump cleaned up (same thing autozone cast impeller) the mating surface. Thinking about ordering a OE Nissan gasket...

after replacing the TC cover for the failed TC guide, I put in a new water pump and gasket. I noticed some antifreeze leaking off the bottom of the timing chain cover, a very little but still bothers me. I used the paper gasket (black) that came with the WP and a little bit of gasket stickum just to hold it in place. Bolts torqued to spec. I put in some uv dye and could see the leak seemed to be coming off the bottom of the pump right at the gasket. Know I know leaks can be sneaky so I wiped clean did again and was pretty sure it was just a poor seal. Next up remove the pump clean all remains (pretty easy since no sealant had been used). try again this time with a felpro (blue) and spray on gasket sealant. spray both sides of gasket, spray TC cover and pump let them all setup for a couple of min, all went well, applied some more gasket sealant to the long bolt threads, torqued to spec (5/10 ftlbs small/large). Refill and before I even got it started I could see water seeping past the bottom 12mm long bolt. ARGH!! pulled it out, cleaned the threads, got some of the anerobic gasket maker (like super thick locktight), installed tried again, same result, this time I have pipe sealer (thick white paste) on the threads and in desperation a little around the top of the bolt. letting is set for HOURS this time, and will try again. If still a problem I am going to go back to the orig pump (it was not leaking and really not a problem but for its a few years old), and try again. This time I will use the Permatex 2 very thin applied to both side of the gasket, being extra careful around that bolt. I had NO issues on the spare engine and I don't think I used any sealant at all.... maybe there is the problem? it was felpro. I could not find specific direction on if it should be sealed or not. I know paper gaskets are supposed to swell, maybe that's the problem.

Well the biggie is the water temp sensor, at 8meg it would run big rich, the 2.3k must have been a cold engine (not run in a while, long enough to cool down). the air regulator must be the heater resistance. the water temp sensor should have made a huge diff.

Video of the problem is always good. how about a video of your cold start procedure with the starting fluid. Be sure to include things like engine temps etc..

Well if its in the 80's or upper 70's its def not a CSV issue. Forcing it to fire at higher temps may help the starting but that's really just covering something else that is wrong.

Smoke test is a good way to find vacuum leaks. plug up the throttle body with a stryofoam cup, get a cheat stogie, I like to use a clear tube connected at the brake booster fitting, puff on the stogie and blow smoke in the tube. You should feel resistance, but as it fills with smoke look for leaks. I recently found a few using the method, one was a missing injector o ring and the other was a split on the valve cover vent pipe.

what are the engine temps when you are having problems with starting please, maybe you covered it already. I just tested my spare engine on the test stand, with the CSV disconnected and the fuel pressure at zero, it started almost instantly. this was at 82f which should not need the CSV and even connected it prob would not have fired since the temp was too high for the thermotime to activate.

yep, I see that. Oh well... If it was me I would have a spark indicator on it, a fuel pressure gauge on it, a stethoscope on the injectors, and have someone else cranking while I watched for everything else.

Next time try this when its cold. disconnect the starter solenoid spade connector (this disables the starter), Turn the key to start and count to 5, release from start position and reconnect the starter solenoid connecter, now try to start it. If it starts right up this way then you have something causing the fuel to drain back out of the lines, requiring the pump to run a extra long time to build pressure. Normally the pressure will come up from 0 to 36 psi in about 2 seconds (not long enough to notice during starting). If the lines are completely empty of fuel it will take much longer as you have to fill the filter and all the lines. The completely empty scenario should NOT happen, but maybe a faulty drain back valve could cause it. A proper operating pump will fill the system but will take the extra few seconds to do it I notice that if I drive every day the start is nearly instant, if I take a week off it takes an extra 2-3 seconds. BTW, you may hear a "CLICK" sound under the hood when you turn to start, that would be the CSV IF its cold enough to activate. It almost sounds like a loud spark, so do be concerned if you do hear it.

prob something got lost in the translation. use a stethoscope and listen to the injector while it is running so you will know what it should sound like, then try it again when cranking.

don't think its adj just a range that it happens to operate in. I know you can buy different spec ones, I got one for a VW that operates up to 85f