Dave WM

thinking of getting one. I like the looks of the EZ car lift and the quick jack lift. one uses a power drill and screw drive, the other hyd. the EZ lift has a fixed horz spacing so limits it some, but seems simple and light. the quick jack requires a bit more as far as having to store a pump for the hydraulic fluid, and does not have as much lift. Curious to hear from those that have either of these. Both lift along the frame rails (or in our case I guess the rockers). https://www.ezcarlift.com/ezcarlift_productinfo.html https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-5000slx/

TC sprocket, oil pump drive, oil slinger.

yikes, turning into a cluster. Not sure what the that chunky looking stuff is, second to last pic. is that gasket material? hard to tell what is going on. I think I see the oil pump drive in the 1st pic. the last pic looks ok, but that second to last is just odd. You have a badly positioned key, slinger looks damaged. I would be tempted to just pull the cover and start all over. Making sure the key is correct any junk left over from the old seal is out and take a close up look at the slinger.

You can still purchase Nissan OE seals. I like to go OE whenever that is an option.

when working on fiddly bits I will hold a small magnet, the kind you use to retrieve stuff on a telescoping rod, next to the item I am working on, if something get loose the magnet tends to grab it.

remove the seal with care, you don't want to mar the timing cover. a good trick is to use a sharp pointed screw, like a drywall screw, tap the point right in the middle of the rubber part, screw it in a couple turns so the thread bites, then pull it out using the screw with some pliers. I don't think you need any sealant on the seal going back in. To install just tap it in around the edges, slowly, making sure it goes in square, a flat faced hammer works well. Since the cover is on you will have to work around the crank shaft so take your time and use a lot of light taps. the key should appear flat on top, it tends to self align as long as its not to out of position to start with. The hard part is getting the damper slot position correct when installing. Again patience and care needed. agree with the others, that key install looks wrong, could make damper install a problem. see Av8 pic of how it should look.

you keep saying "o ring" there is no "o ring". the timing cover has gaskets and a crank shaft seal.

that is the front main seal, installs where the crankshaft exits the timing cover.

A lot of issues can come from modification and air leaks. 1st has there been any mods to the EFI or any other engine system? I dont recall a detail picture of the engine bay, it may help spot something out of the ordinary. as ZH mentioned your fuel pressure is too high for idle, that could be a FPR thing (defect or lack of vacuum), or a pluged return line, or a massive loss of vacuum, in which case the engine would run like poo. as far as the 0 pressure that is the way the system works, the fuel pump only runs when the engine is cranking or running. if you just turn the key to "on" but the engine is not running the pump will stay off. Its to prevent fuel from feeding a fire incase of a malfunction. A simple smoke of the intake system will find leaks. also a vacuum reading would be good, you should see around 15-18 inHg on a warmed up engine at idle. Vacuum leaks show up most when idling. Smoke out the system and look for leaks. Its very easy get a cheap cigar, plug up the front of the AFM, blow smoke into the intake manifold thru the brake boost port (attach a rubber hose and blow smoke there). watch out for smoke. I am assuming the idle adjustment screw works and the rest of the system is intact.

well went to orileys and compared the fan they had, it was different in a lot of ways including thicker extending the fan about 3/8" further in. This one has cut out rather than holes on the mount that goes to the pully as well. I opted back to the Z fan and this new clutch, seems to give a good compromise between the fan blades being shrouded and the angle of the shroud allowing air from the sides to enter in front of the fan. You could really see the issue looking under the car with the bottom shroud removed, get the fan too close and you could almost reverse the air flow on the sides of the rad.

yep and its in the box for storage, will check it tomorrow.

just seems odd Yarb that I needed to do this. check your distance from the front of the rad where it bolts to the core support back to the end of the shroud. Only thing I can think of is my rad maybe thinner than some others? The fan is actually completely inside now maybe 1/4 inch inboard of the shroud.

hmm based on the slope of the shroud on the long sides, it looks like the air would feed in at the tip edge of the fan rather than in front of the fan. I may go back to the original. going to stop by a local auto parts place and confirm the dimensions of the AZ fan to a different make, just to see if it was shallow.

with ZX fan (I presume) mount ring offset towards rear of fan. I like this fit much better, still have about 1" clearance fan to rad

you really should be only replacing if there is an issue. The FPR and the EGR maybe fine, you just need to test or check. the reason being you don't want to introduce more variables into the situation. Re the fuel pressure you can just check it no need for an inline but it that is what you want its ok and should be after the fuel filter as the FSM shows it that way. The power test will help find the issue (disable one cylinder at a time while the event is happening. disconnecting the injectors is the best way, find the problem and focus on it. you need to address fuel/spark/timing/compression and see which one or combo is the issue.

that's 5.5 inches from the back of the core support at the top to the back of the shroud.

I am still a bit confused as a buddy sent me some pics with his setup and it seemed the Z fan (mount ring closer to the back or so it appeared) fit much better into the shroud. I am going to pull the bottom shroud off, pull the fan, take the fan clutch off and do some measurement. My setup is stock, with a 3 row rad (after market copper brass), two groove crank pulley and the fan sits outside the back of the shroud about 1"

ecu behind kick panel driver side.

could not get the .mov to work, but generally speaking you should start by reading the plugs. running rich or lean will be a data point. Something to always look into is simple stuff like firing order and timing. don't know why they would change but once its out of your hands you can't be sure of anything. I see you changed the water temp sensor, did you check the resistance values at the ECU connector? This is important to make sure the wiring from the sensor to the ecu is correct and the values the ECU are correct for the given water temps. You mentioned fuel filter, have you checked the fuel pressure? Another problem can be air leaks, a disconnected hose missing o ring on an injector, split hose on the AFM all kinds of issue can be air leak related. Smoking the intake is the best way to check, just make sure you block off the front of the AFM, smoke can be added at the brake boost port. Speaking of brake boost, I had a poor running problem that turned out to be a brake booster (poor brakes made that an easy find), but the point is you have to look at all place where air leaks can be an issue. One more place to check, if so equipped, check the EGR valve, a stuck open EGR is the same as an air leak.

figured it out, see 1st post

ah got this message Your cart contains item(s) that need(s) to be checked by us before your payment. Click "Submit order" to start this process. even though it had the final lower shipping price

for fun I started a new order got as far as submit order selected japan surface post (vs fed ex) got it down to 80+27. did not pull the trigger to actually submit. I reviewed my old order and it was 75+46 back in 2019

that's odd, did not have the problem with them.