Dave WM

the radios are insane.

guess I should have added the FSM harness

I can't find the Blue Yellow stripes wires are for on the wiring harness. The FSM shows them not used. they are directly opposite the White and White Black stripe for the driver speaker. I was hoping I could use those (not used) for the Passenger speaker. I did not see them in the passenger side area when I had the panel off, AND they are not polarized so doubt they would be for a speaker anyway.

A video of this would help to understand exactly what is sound like. Do you notice this while driving?

YES just what zed said I recently did this, remove the bolts try not to lose them its kinda awkward, remove the strut, remove the little plastic filler piece that is in the panel in the same area. Get the carpet out of the way, remove the tail light finisher.

Yea I know the feeling work getting in the way of fun.

swapped connectors from thermotime and temp sensor would surely be a huge problem.

just to cover all the bases If the hatch seal seems bad, I would start there, then test if they are bad should be done anyway to keep water out. Can you do the dollar bill test on the hatch seal? If still smell exhaust, then I would pull all the panel parts on the passenger side aft, and tail light (the entire back piece). and really get up close to look for missing or loose rubber. Filler neck goes thru the area behind the panel so clearly you need have seals there (top at filler and bottom to tank).

behind the plastic panel that covers the pass side tail light. there are 2 on my 75 the lines route up to the "vapor separator". 2 lines one small than the other. if you pull of the inspection panel for access to the tail light you will see at least one of them. You may have to pull the entire back panel off to see the other, I don't really remember. on mine they fit very snuggly around the hose, they pull up like a sock to seal tightly around the hose. the hoses route down to the tank, fit in the back side ports of the tank. Could be different on a 240.

My CTS was decidedly low ohm for given temp, That's one part that I would def replace if its the original part (40 years old). But that does not mean assume a new is good, must check before install. ALL my thermostat stuff ended up getting replaced as it was all off enough or not working at all. That would be Temp sender (for gauge) (poor calibration) Temp sensor (for EFI) (MUCH lower ohms for a given temp than it should have been) Water temp switch stuck open (EGR on my Cali car, distributor timing on others) EGR was recirc with cold engine. ThermoTime switch (cold start injector) stuck open while not a big deal here in FL could be an issue on cold days during winter. I ended up going with a 85f just to make starting a bit easier (think the stock will not fire unless under 70f). I suspect I am just covering for a loss of pressure to the injectors after sitting over night. My fuel pressure holding period is somewhat erratic. Most of these will not stop the car from running or even be a big deal once it warms up (I do like a working temp gauge to keep an eye on things so I don't overheat), but I am something of a perfectionist on this stuff and figure there are enough things that I maybe missing that I don't have the luxury of ignoring the stuff I KNOW is wrong.

if not mentioned already, grommets on tank vent lines

and what about the temp sensor, that one is the one that will cause problems during warm up, then drops out of the equation after the engine is hot. Note the Temp sensor is not the Temp gauge sender, that does nothing for the EFI.

No reason to stress over it, its not a big deal, take is slow. its a good idea about recommendations from other mechanics, that's what I have done in the past. You will get it done and then you can be proud of having a nice cool car and you will know a lot more. The more you know the less overwhelmed you will feel and that applies to a lot of things not just cars.

ah I see the easy to get exp valve. Yea if it was mine I would replace that as well. and try to flush the evap. My recommendation to the OP is to take it to several shops, try to find one that has been in business at the same location for a long while, get some written estimates, then report back to the group before committing to anything. You don't have to go with the 1st person that looks at it.

Hr369, so was that a non factory Evap as well? still in the same location?

Yesterday the low fuel light came on, I drove the gas station, indicator right at about 1/8th, 5 gallons to get to 1/2, 10 gallons to get to 3/4 and 14 gallons to fill (after restarting twice after 1st shut off. So I looks like the gauge tracks pretty well and give me prob 2 gallons left (say a gallon that never gets used) when the low fuel light comes on. I feel pretty good about the calibration now. Now that I trust my fuel indicator I am one step closer to a road trip.

Mystery ac, who knows what kind of evap def not factory hard lines to it anyway. Compressor open=bad. Sorry to say this is def going to need an AC shop, as they will need to raid the parts dept to cobble something back together. I would budget 1500+

answering some of my own questions the speaker for the driver side wraps around to the passenger side, terminates at a connecter under the passenger seat. The wiring diagram shows to unused sections of the body harness plug, opposite the W and WB for the driver side speaker. Seems like it would be easy enough to activate those for a X and XB wires for the new speaker passenger side, would still like to know the X color if anyone knows what that is. the wiring diagram does NOT show provisions at the radio plug from the console harness for extra speaker wires to be added. Not to mention I don't even know if my car still has that plug since its an aftermarket radio, and some hack may have just cut it off. So I may have to engineer an addition to the console harness back to the Plug under the passenger seat, as well as see what kind of radio plug I currently have if any.

Questions: am I missing a passenger side speaker connection on my 75 280z? I recall looking for bullet connectors when I last had the panel off (rear by tank filler). If the harness did not come with a provision for a passenger side speaker, as standard I have to assume it was an option. If so can some confirm the factory location and lead dress and wire colors for the option. Thanks Dave

seeing as I am completely stock on the exhaust I think I will be fine. The pod speakers I have are smaller and cheap and work ok.

Since its not factory anyway, the best thing would be to just replace EVERYTHING forward of the firewall and hope the evap is ok. Would be a good idea to remove the expansion valve (do not need to pull the evap to do that IF its a factory evaporator). Clean it, replace O rings check it for function. Button up the evap with cleaned expansion valve then all new stuff. I am saying this cause if you want a reliable AC that pretty much what you will need to do. I do things in stages but that's cause I can do the work myself, but that is not the best for all folks. edit on removal of the exp valve, SHOULD be able to remove with out pulling the evap BUT if its in there and stuck from lack of use, it could be a problem getting out of the housing. Based on what I have seen, its likely that you could have corrosion in there as well.

working on getting the factory location working for the stereo.

That wire is prob for the compressor clutch.

yea CkMan need more pics of the compressor and inside as well. It may have something other than the factory evap, in which case just more stuff to try and figure out.

ok re read your post if that is the condenser (front of car) and its got a split/hole, then obviously you will need a new condenser. To that the drier will need to be replaced as well. Hopefully the rest is ok (compressor/evap/expansion valve). Anyway you go about it you will need to get to a shop can replace what you have since its not factory so you cant just order up parts. Replace the condenser/drier and all the hoses. If the compressor is not locked you can try it from there, pull vacuum, if it holds add oil charge and Freon and see what happens. Its going to be a crap shoot. if the evap is bad it will shoot upwards a lot for the labor to pull the evap from the dash. By then you have replaced everything and you are at the 1500-2000 level for a shop to do it. If your lucky replacing the condenser/hoses/drier and recharge more like 500$ again this is very rough pricing depends on the shops in your area.