Dave WM

ah next project

Got it!!!

a quick tip to tell if the bushing on that pin are shot, does the shift knob rotate at all? if there is ANY rotation noted then the two side bushings are shot.

Not yet, been PMing, hope he sees them soon.

California car, cat converter and EGR on my 75. That and the rad is not drilled for the bottom mount stud located on the bracket that the overflow tank mounts to. I do have one to install but the rad outlet is on the wrong side and I would need to drill the sheet metal on the radiator support, not real sure I want to do all that.

the door latch on my 75 has this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o02e02/10-9008 use for taking some of the load off the hinge pins when the door is closed from what I understand. Mounted on the bottom of the latch on the door.

I need one for the passenger side (missing) and the one on the driver has a broken mount hole (common from what I read). So how do you guys like those billet ones that I read about? I am sure they have been around long enough to get some comment on fitment and function. The OE's look nice but not sure I need to worry about that level of originality on my DD. Thx Dave

I am looking to take a road trip to some Mountains. N GA is the closest, (north of Atlanta). I will be coming from Orlando maybe on Thanksgiving day (should be low traffic I presume). can anyone suggest a good route that will give me some nice twisty roads and some good views?

not on my 75, just shoots to the ground.

Hey now, I spy the model airplanes, good stuff. I used to fly a lot of RC gear, including my own design EDF the micro bandit.

so far no clutch issues. But I do have a 5 speed that I am waiting for cooler weather to install. So when I pull it presume I will be able to see if there is any leaking. I am surprised by all the issues folks report back on the main seal. I would not have thought it is so problematic. From what I have read the main issues are Proper lube (no dry starts) Proper tool to install (per you post about getting in square) side seals on main bearing cap (different styles OE vs non OE with external steel. sealant on side seals of main bearing cap. So my plan is to continue to research and try to figure out the best way to address these issues.

its time for an oil change so will do.

what do you think, I see oil leaking right at the pan gasket joint. I am hoping its not the rear seal.

amazing work.

its a 75, will check and get back on the SN. The boots are completely shot, but I think ball joint is still fine, I jacked up the front and put a crow bar under the tire, could not note any kind of play. I assume you just clean them out with a solvent and then put on the new boot and pump in grease thru the fitting. I see there are some "555" type out there too that look very nice.

An old post but new question. Are the moogs being shipped new style with different looking boot. Is the new style any better worse? If I replace just the ball joint do I need to align. My real issue is the rotted dust cover, so I am also looking to source just that.

this may help, the video shows some of the details involved in getting OE like speakers.

You may want to remove the panels to make sure the brackets are there to install the speakers. On my 75 280 I had panel holes for 2 speakers (the back ones, there was none up high like yours) but only one speaker (driver side). I had to get a bracket to mount the pass side and had to run wires since the harness did not support a speaker there. I used some NOS speakers from the late 80's Not too deep. You want to make sure if a coax type tweet is on the speaker that it does not extend out in front and get fouled by the panel.

I did search but did not find a good answer. I have a 1975 280z FI all stock 280z. Has the EGR and catalytic converter with the warning lable on the fuel gauge "unleaded fuel only" I have also been reading about valve seats being made from softer materials on the N42 due the running of leaded fuel (non Cali cars I assume). So is it likely that California cars had the hard steel valve seats? Just wondering. I do run unleaded ethanol free and all seems good.

took to shop hoping they had a easy fix, have to pull manifolds off and take it from there. He did use stethoscope (I should have thought of that) and could hear no leak from around that area. His take was leave it, if it starts to leak and bother me then deal with it.

Must be hard on tires.

So it would seem I would have to at least remove the intake and exhaust, and pull the head off just so I can see clearly where to punch and drill. Maybe could do it without pulling head, would just have to work at it at odd angles. does the weld on a nut idea not work well? I have seen that done.

roger that Jeff, I just checked with my borescope, does not seem lined up at all. Oh well scratch that idea for this problem.

I have read up some on this, Seems like using a sleeve that fits the manifold hole (assuming its centered over the stud) snuggly and has a hole in the sleeve that is sized for a small drill bit. Then after a starter hole another sleeve with a larger center hole as a guide for a larger bit, repeat once more with a sleeve and bit that just about consumes the balance of the stud. I think if I use the sleeves there will be enough control to do this operation without removing the head. Anyone here use this sleeve method for accurate centering of the drill bit?

found this thread while searching. Mine (last bolt on exhaust manifold with the engine hoist) just fell off. I was under the hood and noticed the bolt was no longer sticking out straight but bent down and the hanger was at an odd angle. it was completely sheared off. Next question what do I do about it? leave it be or can I get a professional bolt extraction service that will not require pulling the head? any harm doing nothing about it for now?