Dave WM

lastly here it state the use of rubber fuel hose

I am not very good at attaching pics but here you can see illustrations of a rubber hose. these same differ on the 76 FSM

one more question, is there any down side to not using the hard line to that CSV? just wondering why Nissan thought it was worth the effort over just using a little more FI hose. I little more research on this and it seems the 75 did NOT use the hard line (I have a FSM that's 75-76 that shows it, but a pdf copy of a 75 only clearly shows just the rubber line, not a hard line). so never mind, I will keep it orig, NO hard line on the 75 CSV.

something I came across while reading the Datsun engine rebuilding book is some kind of snorkel that fit from the air cleaner back to an opening just above and to the left (viewed from the front) of the radiator. I thought this opening was some kind of fresh air vent for the passenger side (my 75 only has the passenger side fresh air vent under the dash). So am I missing the snorkel and if so what is the purpose of drawing air from what appears to be under the fender?

In my never ending quest to get the car back to as orig as possible, I found I was missing a hard line that connects the fuel rail to the CSV. I was able to locate one, a bit rusty but otherwise in good condition. Its sitting in some evap or rust will be installing it later. I had just a long piece of FI rubber tubing there. I also finally figured out about the mystery grommet on the driver side quarter, the antenna drain. I am pretty sure its not connected as I can not see any tube sticking out, so I will be pulling the plastic cover off to get at it and figure out where the tube went. I found a rubber cover for the fuel pump wire nuts, but only one. so will see if I can find another. Its a bit larger than the kind that are located on the dropping resistor by the coil.

no on replace. You should make sure they are not bottoming out and noted above.

already back together, I like to do things is stages, so far so good, keeping time to the minute over several days. I would replace at least the cap if I was going to put it into service. for now its just a spare.

what do you mean leaking water and no coolant? that does not make any sense. if you have a leak you need to check the mating surfaces, make sure they are clean and in good condition, the torque it to spec with a new gasket. If there is still a leak, something else is leaking, like the hose or something else.

Use the gasket that came with it, no need for silicone on the gasket. Just make sure you have clean mating surfaces. I put a little anti seize compound on any nut that is screwed into aluminum. Don't overtighten.

Yes if the car is overheating and everything else is ok (stat opens, water pump working, correct amount of coolant, no head gasket leaks, fan working properly, hoses not collasping, then the only thing left is the heat exchange from the water in the radiator to the air flowing thru it. Radiator can become plugged up with rust and other debris ,esp if the coolant is not properly maintained. I suppose its possible the water pump could be so corroded that the impeller is not moving water, but I would guess the bearing would go bad before that.

have you ever tested the water temp to verify the actual temp (rather than trusting the gauge)? 1st thing is to determine if you have a problem. I presume that is 76.5c which is about 170f, should be fine. Now check the actual water temp in the rad with a thermometer (like the kind used to check meat temps while cooking would be fine). 1) does the temp match what reads on the gauge? if not fix that part (sending unit, or gauge) 2) check the existing stat to see if it works (see video) 3) if it works and still running hot, maybe the rad is plugged.

yea the Simpson is my go to meter. I also have a nice HP VTVM that I use for HF stuff or where loading is an issue. The HP uses a vacuum tube in the prob for RF probing. Get yourself some small 10uf radials and the .22 if you are going in there. I kinda started to run out of room with the 35v ones I had on hand, 16v would have fit a lot better.

the part 2 and 3 are also out there showing the working clock.

decided to tackle a clock I have has a spare, it was not working, uses a hybrid of electronic and mechanical. Replaced the two 10uf caps, left the .22 electro (I do not have one that value handy). You have to be very very careful about the wire on the pad that is shared by one of the caps and the coil. Anyway the good news is it working fine, the caps were completely open (when testing with a Simpson 260 VOM). I made a video should be up soon will post when done.

what ever you end up with, test it 1st before installing. read up on removing old bolts, I snapped off on of the two bolts that holds the cover on. Ended up having to drill and tap it out. From the video you can see one of the main advantages is the larger diameter of the opening. Seems like that would flow better than the smaller stant.

improved design, lower and just as easy to move, more stable as well.

I picked up from a local Nissan dealer the rear main and side seals, I suspect my slow oil leak is from the main, will confirm when I get the clutch off. The carpet is a HD indoor outdoor type, vacuum up mess, but its pretty much oil soaked after all these years. I will end up pulling it up some day. I would like to install a mid rise lift but that will only be if we stay here. I would much rather move up to north Ga/East Tn and make a proper shop.

I may forgo the dolly completely and try some "moving men" which are plastic slider, put them on the 4 corners of the ply wood base (will be larger than shown) that will drop it a good 3"-4" will just have to see how easy they slide on the garage floor (carpeted).

why are you replacing it? those caps rarely go bad.

I have used the nut on the end of the camshaft sprocket to turn the camshaft for checking lash. Taking the plugs out will make it easier.

heck of a tick, sounds more like something hitting the fan.