Dave WM

I have been contemplating a trans swap, well that involved removing the exhaust, which I have managed to break two of the 3 down pipe nuts on the studs. figuring I will need to remove the exhaust manifold to repair, I decided to tackle removing the various bolts that hold the intake/exhaust on. I assume both should come off since again I assume it will need a new gasket there as well. I PB blasted and smacked the 4 intake nuts and the one easy to get at exhaust nut with a 1/2 ext and a BFH to shock them, then used a 14 and 12 mm box to remove. so far so good, after backing them completely out I replaced with some anti-seize compound snug. Was curious about the use of bolts vs the studs and nuts as per the FSM? perhaps someone has been here before? any one else know if OE was ever bolts on a 75? Also note the exhaust stud was broken on the back of the engine, it actually broke in place, I just noticed the engine hoist bracket hanging at an odd angle. Now here there was a stud and nut. Seem weird that if the manifold was removed before and bolts used to replace studs why mixing of parts? Now I know the center top exhaust used a bolt but could not see the other two on the side of the center mount so maybe I will find studs there. Anyway finally some success with removing stuff and not breaking parts. After the thermostat housing (top nut) and the down pipe I was about to throw in the towel. I can fix the broken stud (I hope) where the hoist mount is as well this way, will have to see what I am dealing with AFTER I get the manifolds off. It looks like I can leave the fuel injectors on the intake, or will I run into an issue if I do that?. anyway the goal is: remove and fix broken exhaust manifold stud on rear of engine. remove exhaust manifold to take to shop so they can remove broken studs on down pipe. replace with new studs and brass nuts. while at it will see if I can get the EGR bottom connection loosened up. Top is ok and I know I can leave it attached on the bottom, but if I can get it out would be nice to get some anti-seize there as well. get it all buttoned up so I can get started on the trans swap. fyi I got some quotes on the above (the manifold bold and the down pipe fix) they said would need to pull manifold (just as I described) to make the fixes listed, 700$ min ouch... If the remaining bolts (3 on the exahaust and common ones used to clamp) come off as easy as the ones done so far, then I will be happy to do the work myself. I plan to borrow a torch for the one remaining down pipe nut. Thx to JSR who advised me that the ones on the head were generally not a problem.

yea not much of a mountain for sure. There is a lot of road work out around there too, big highways etc... If our new guy comes up for the run, you can ride with me if you car is not ready.

if you want to drive up to central FL: after you get it, let us know, JSM and I are both on the west side, we can have a mini run out to sugar loaf mountain.

I just use the youtube editor for any clipping that I do.

I think that would be very useful, if nothing else a direct comparison of poly vs OE Nissan rubber. See if you can note the amount of tire movement in my video, I cant say for sure exactly how much I was turning the steering wheel but you can kind of get the idea by seeing how far you are actually moving the tires.

All stock, understand the wheels are on the ground and the car is not moving (obviously) so the rubber mount is fighting max friction of tire on ground (carpeted garage no less), you can clearly see the tires moving in the video. I suspect this is normal, which is why I would love to see someone else do the same test, tires on ground turning the steering wheel 45-60 degrees each way and document the movement. My guess is the rubber functions to isolate road vibration transmission into the frame, and therefore MUST have movement, only real question is how much. So if there is anyone else interested in this, please post up some video. FYI from what I can tell there is no play just the rubber being compressed on the side load.

I have to sell some more TV's and stereos... I want my dash done by just dashes. rule is you have to trade in one hobby item to support the other.

I would think that you should be able to "feel" the shift detents fully engage, that is the shift lever in 5th should not feel like its bound up but rather has a bit of "play" after getting into gear. This is what I ended up with after careful grinding of the shift lever. Now on mine it was a ZX transmission with a Z shifter, I would that if all the parts are OE then mods like this would not be needed.

If you manage to get it off with out snapping anything I may be get up the nerve to do this as well. I my case is so I can get the exhaust mani off so I can take it to the machine shop to fix the broken studs on the down pipe.

yea its a bit of a drive, you will have fun down there. If you can you should check out vizcaya its really a neat old place.

delete dupe

not going to bother with posting up new video, suffice it to say its the same with the new bushing as the old, which is not surprising given the old was not that bad. Perhaps the PU bushings have less give in them, but at least now you know what to expect with OE Nissan rubber.

removed the old bushing since the UPS guy is supposed to be here soon, they don't look oil soaked or badly worn, will see how the new ones look.

Nice write up, great pics. I have a spare rack that I think I will try the torque test just to see where it is.

too late, got the rubber ones, should be here today.

it does not appear to have been wrenched on very much, could have 42 yr old rubber in there. So far every part I have looked at seems to be OE. I will make sure I get a video of the after to have something to compare to.

they are on the way! One thing that is not obvious from the video is the car is on the ground, so there is load from the tires touching the ground. I assume some movement will take place, just not sure how much is too much.

see new link My guess is this is excessive..

forgot about the load of the fuel pump in the "START" which tends to reduce the overall voltage during the test. When I tested again as described above the voltage at the coil was about the same maybe a little bit less in "START" again I presume due to the load of the pump.

75 280z. FSM electrical section. I will be testing again later now that I can read the wire code better. my test will be do check voltage at the positive lead of the coil while turning the key to ON and then to START with the starter disabled by pulling the solenoid lead. I presume I should see a higher battery voltage at the coil when in the "START" position vs the "RUN". esp since the starter motor is disabled so no starter load on the battery.

never mind I was reading it completely wrong. there is a black and blue on the end, and a black and white next, I was reading from the wrong end, did not realize the BL was Black and Blue while L is blue.

Sometimes my car seems to start best if you turn the start key to start, then release to run, that's when it begins igniting and running on its own. I was thinking about this and wondered if its possible I had an intermittent key switch issue. I get my analog meter (better for quick changes in current flow readings) and hook up to the + side of the distributor connector on the ballast resistor (the spade connector). I disable the starter solenoid (pull the spade connector) and check for voltage in the run position, looks good, then I advance the key to the start position, still voltage but a drop, him that seems odd, I review the FSM and confirm if anything there should be less resistance in the circuit so voltage should be higher with Key in Start. I then review the color code, my Blue (BL) wire is on the outside (highest resistance to coil) side of the ballast. The black white (BW) is next. If I read this right the run position is always getting the lower resistance (higher voltage) that should be used for starting and the starting is getting the higher resistance, lower voltage to the coil for start. the wiring looks pretty original.

I have not lived down there (Ft Lauderdale) since the 70's so I am sure my info is dated. We used to drive out in the everglades, IIRC there is a national preserve out there. If you want to see some Gators, this is the mating season, lots of them roaming around. I recall a nice elevated walk way that you could walk out into the habitat some and see lots of wild life.