sblake01

No problem. Thanks for the comment on the truck. As far as being a 'Datsun guru', thanks for that too, but,....well I know the things I've come across and solved on my own cars but there are others here how know far more than I do.

Keep in mind that this will work on 75-77s but 78s (and up) don't have fuel pump contacts in the AFM.

I hate links that lead to pop up ads that are designed so that my blocker won't block them. That being said, nice car. I love the Skyline but would not be interested in a RHD. If I could ever find a LHD KGC10/Skyline/2400/GT over here I'd be interested.

Likely the richness is caused by the temperature sensor. Could be leaky injectors or a problem with the thermotime switch/cold start valve however. Here's a link to the full 1976 280Z factory service manual. If you don't already have one, most, if not all, of the troubleshooting info you'll need is in it. http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/76_datsun_280z.zip

If the 83 is a non turbo, all you'd have to do is make sure that the sensors from the 78 are transferred over to the 83 engine and plug everything into the existing 78 harness. There will be a cylinder head temperature sensor on the passenger side of the 83 engine that won't be used on the 78. You can either remove it and plug the hole or just leave it unplugged.

That would only really be a problem if the hood opened the other way...........

You are definately not alone in that opinion.

Datsun roadster carbs have the floats on the left side but those don't look like roadster carbs. Maybe they're British SUs but they don't appear to be 240Z carbs.

There's a thread or two somewhere on that subject.

Er, Carl, he got it working. See post #29.

Yes. I believe that one is also on the microfiche cd.

That second pic is likely the cowl drain. I have a 280Z so it's a little different in that I have two of those. One for the cowl drain and one for the AC evaporator drain.

Get the ZCar micrifiche CD. Those commercials and more are on it.

I open the bleeder, pump the pedal about 8 to 10 times, wedge the pedal with a telescopic bar that I use for just this purpose, close the bleeder, and check the clutch for functionality. I rarely have had to do that more than twice as long as I wasn't starting with a completely empty system. For that, I would use a second person.

I agree with Bo. Something about the description of you attempts to bleed it didn't quite sound right. Not exactly sure what but sometimes it's hard to grasp everything that someone writes. I just know that I've bled several of these clutches and never had much problem doing it. Did you start with a completely empty system without bench bleeding the master first? That would likely explain the overall difficulty.

IMO a BPE has the SAP. A 78Z with black pearl paint is just that. JMO. My car isn't a 'Blue Metallic Edition'. I have those window stickers somewhere also.

Yes it should work. There's no difference between a 76 and a 78 flywheel. I've used the gear reduction starters on everything from the earlier Zs to 510s and trucks.

I think the one E posted is from the Haynes manual, page 169. It doesn't scan well because the paper is too thin and you get bleed through from the page behind it.

I think were getting mixed up on terminology here. The clutch fork is the withdrawal lever. Is the push rod from the slave cylinder moving the withdrawal lever?

They made code 411 yellow 77s and code 638 black 78s w/o the specail appearance package though not many of either. I'm old enough and into Datsuns enough the have seen both in the showroom. Without the stripes, etc, a yellow 77 is just a yellow 77 and a black 78 is just a black 78. While you wouldn't really call the non-SAP cars a 'ZZZap' or a 'BPE', or at least I wouldn't, they are rarer. What that's worth in either case is up to you. I don't think either of them are worth anything more than a regular 77 or 78 but that's JMO. Other than the paint, stripes, etc. there was no badging, or special vin number or anything like that to distinguish them from the mainstream 280Z. 30+ years have passed and, unless it's been in a vacuum, it will need work. If you restore one to the original setup, be it a ZZZap, or a BPE, you could do the same thing with a regular 77 or 78. If you did a good enough job, no one would be able to tell you that it wasn't genuine. That, to me, adds no extra value.

At the point where you got a stedy stream of fluid with no air, did you hold the pedal down and then close the valve?

Do you have the factory service manual. It's the best manual when it comes to dealing with these cars. You can download one at http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html. Other than that, it does sound like a fuel pressure issue to me also. Many variables there. Tank, pressure regulator, fuel pump, etc. My car had those same syptoms when I bought it in 1997 and it tank was the main culprit.

I have the die cut logos on my Z and truck without the sunshield and they aren't in the wiper path.