Matthew Abate

Thanks for the advice guys! I’ve been talking to Vintage Connections about their 240z kit, which they claim contains all the connectors I’ll need for the car. I think I am going to get it if it is accurate to my inventory. I’ll report on that later. For the 10-pin clips, I may reuse the one I have, but I’m going to see if I can figure out an alternative before I decide. @zKars I was going to try to reuse these, but after I stripped the wrapping off I found so many bad splices, burnt through wires, corrosion/oxidation, cut wires, and other issues I decided to rebuild from scratch. Plus, the engine harness isn’t even the right one, being for an automatic, and I have numerous components to add or remove. I honestly think it’s going to be less work to make fresh harnesses.

I'm deep in the process of cataloging the dashboard harness and it's making me lean toward trying to use OEM connectors, rather than modernizing the harnesses with new technology (although I am open to hearing arguments against this). The one place I think this is going to be super challenging is with the big 10-pin connectors that come in blue, green, white, and black and join the individual harnesses together. Does anyone have an idea of whether or not these can be found new or NOS anywhere? I haven't seen them anywhere, whereas I have been able to find pretty much all of the other connectors used in these harnesses somewhere.

Okay. Noted. I will include these details including the loop mod in the tach in my overall wiring plan. I’m not going to be able to test this stuff until I have it all in one place, unfortunately, but at least I have it all captured here for reference. Thanks guys!

@Zed Head I guess I didn’t really come out and ask, but I was more wondering if the ohms rating of the coil I choose impacts the tach wiring modification you’re recommending in any way, taking into account I have the 4-wire tach.

Thanks! I’ll take a look. The one I was leaning toward is the NGK 48776 which I’ve read is is rated at 0.93 ohms and falls in the range I mentioned. If I understand correctly, more ohms is less heat, right? So the 1.5 or 3 ohm could you suggested would still be safe for the ignition. —- Also, I was reading through the ZHome write up on making a 240 tach work with a ZX dizzy and he calls out the 3-wire vs 4-wire tachs, 3-wire being his preference for making this work. I have a 4-wire tach, so I’ll have to dig more.

Back to the tach… I’m getting ready to choose a coil to go with the e12-80 ignition on the rebuilt distributor I just bought. @Zed Head posted an image from an 81 FSW that says the correct coil resistance is 0.84 - 1.02 ohms in another thread on coils for this ignition. I guess what I’m wondering is if this will impact what we were talking about with the 240z tach continuing to work with this ignition/coil combination, or if maybe it might present an issue. I don’t fully understand this stuff. I’m going to get a coil in this range either way because I want to match it to this ignition, it just impact other stuff down the road.

See my post here for a table with all of the FS5W71B parts and where I sourced them:

Thanks for the help everyone! I went ahead and made an updated version of EuroDat's spreadsheet with links to where I was able to source OEM Nissan parts so peope can copy the part numbers instead of transcribing them from the screenshot. I didn't get everything on the list, and some of them may not pan out (the ones from Amayama Japan / Part Souq, specifically) but I have a ton of this stuff on order. I'll let you know how it goes. FS5W71B Rebuild Parts List Fiche ID Nissan Part Nr. Replacement Description Nissan Amayama Japan Amazon Ebay Size QTY Notes Tranmission Gear 32203 * 32273-N4800 BEARING - Main Input Shaft Amayama Japan Amazon ID 30 x OD 72 x W 19mm 1 6306 NR C3 (with snap ring) 32276 * 32273-36900 BEARING - Main Input Shaft, Adapter Plate Amayama Japan Ebay ID 30 x OD 72 x W 19mm 1 6306 C3 32275 * 32203-14360 BEARING - Main Input Shaft, Extension Housing Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Ebay ID 25 x OD 52 x W 15mm 1 6205 C3 32272 * 32272-36910 BEARING - Pilot, Input / Output Shafts Amayama Japan Ebay Needle 1 Same as BEARING - Reverse Idler Gear 32264R / M / U 32264-14601 BEARING - Needle, Main Shaft Gears Nissan World Amayama Japan Ebay 3 1st, 2nd, & 3rd 32604M * 32604-P0100 RING - Baulk, 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th Gears Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 4 32544 * 32604-E9801 32604-36N21 RING - Baulk, 5th Gear Amayama Japan 1 32241B 32354-E9803 NUT - Main Shaft, Left Hand Thread Amayama Japan 1 280ZX Close Ratio 5-Speed 32241B 32354-A7400 NUT - Main Shaft, Right Hand Thread 1 280Z Wide Ratio 5-Speed NLA 32241B 32354-E9804 NUT - Main Shaft, Right Hand Thread (Early 280zx) 1 Replaces 32354-E9800 & 32354-E9802 NLA Counter Gears 32219 * 32219-E9020 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Front Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon (CA) ID 22 x OD 56 x W 16mm 1 63 / 22 C3 32219M * 32203-E9800 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Adapter Amayama Japan Amazon ID 25 x OD 62 x W 17mm 1 6305 C3 32231 * 32319-N4870 BEARING - Counter Shaft, Rear Amayama Japan Part Souq ID 20 x OD 47 x W 14mm 1 6204 C3 32283 * 32272-36910 BEARING - Reverse Idler Gear Amayama Japan Ebay Needle 1 Same as BEARING - Pilot, Input / Output Shafts 32210A 32236-E9500 NUT - Counter Shaft, Right Hand Thread Nissan World Amayama Japan 1 Transmission Case 32112 * 32112-08U01 GASKET - Front Cover Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 Replaces 32112-E9001 32137 * 32137-E9000 OIL GUTTER Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32113 * 32114-Y4000 SEAL - Front (NOK: AH1679G) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon 30 / 45 x 8mm 1 32136 * 32136-U010A SEAL - Rear Extension (NOK: 400402N) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan Amazon 35 / 50 x 11mm 1 Replaces 32114-20100 & 32114-E9000 - NISSAN-62 BUSHING - Rear Extension (Omega Machine & Tool P/N: 71411) ID 35mm 1 DON'T USE (SKU: 303066) Transmission Shift Control 32849C 32855-H1010 BUSHING - Control Pin Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 2 32861 32861-N4200 BUSHING - Control Lever Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32862 32862-E9801 BOOT - Control Lever Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 1 32850H 32858-U6702 SEAL - Striking Rod, Inner 14/20 4.2mm 1 32710N 32710-14600 SEAL (O-RING) - Striking Rod, Outer Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 24 x 2.5mm 1 Same as Speedo O-Ring - NLA SEAL (O-RING) - Reverse Checking Assembly 22 x 2.5mm 1 32852 32852-24901 SPRING - Return Amayama Japan 1 32831N 32830-20100 SPRING - Checking Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 3 Speedo 32703 32703-78101 PINION - Speedometer, 17T (Black) Nissan World Amayama Japan 3.54:1 Diff. 1 32703 32703-78102 PINION - Speedometer, 18T (White) Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 3.70:1 Diff. 1 32710 32710-14600 SEAL (O-RING) - Speedometer Pinion Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 24 x 2.5mm 1 Same as Striking Rod O-Ring 32709 32709-14600 SEAL - Speedometer Pinion Courtesy Parts Amayama Japan 10/16 x 4.2mm 1 * = Parts in Major Overhaul Kits Red = Parts No Longer Available Through Nissan O-Ring Sizes are Inner Diameter + Cross Section

I had posted an ad for a mechanical fuel pump eccentric and it looks like both of the respondents were scammers. Anyone have one for an L-series engine they are willing to sell, or know a reliable source for one? I am referring to this one:

I am having a FS5w71B transmission rebuilt and I am trying to provide the shop with a complete inventory of bearing and seal sizes before they open it up. Has anyone already done this? I have the part numbers for all of this stuff taken from the Car Parts Manual site, but that doesn't give me the ID/OD/Width info and weather or not any of them are sealed. I suppose I could just get a rebuild kit, but I wanted to have this on hand to ensure everything goes smoothly once they get to it. Does anyone have this info on hand? I've dug through the forum and can't find it.

There's a new clear film that installs like traditional window tint that supposedly blocks 99% of UV rays and up to 43% of the heat coming through the glass. Also supposedly, it is legal to put it on the windshield because it is almost completely transparent. I'm going to be looking into this, and if it is in fact legal I may have a tint shop do all my glass with this stuff. It's also anti glare. Might replace your towel solution.

The ZX stuff would seem like a good starting point, but new systems would be set up for r134. I’m foregoing anything that isn’t purpose built to handle r134 so that I can avoid leaks and to just make maintenance easier. I think step one for me is going to be trying to figure out the bolt pattern for the condenser. If anyone had one laying around and wants to help draw up a patter, let me know. If anyone has the one from Z Car Source and could write a review, that would also be helpful. From there maybe I can talk to Vintage Air and try to get them to tell me which one of theirs is closest. I might also be able to figure out a Nissan part that is close to that.

@Captain Obvious, you mean you haven’t already done all my work for me?!?!?! Man! But in seriousness, I was intrigued by the original premise of your thread. I have been wondering if one could pull the compressor and condenser out of a newish Nissan and make them work. I am guessing they would be super efficient compared to some of the aftermarket options available. In addition to looking at the two condensers I mentioned earlier, I’ve been looking at OEM options from the last decade as well as things that have the drier built in. No luck so far but I might find something. I’ll probably opt for the Z Car bolt in one, though.

View Advert Mechanical Fuel Pump Cam Eccentric I am looking for an eccentric to drive my mechanical fuel pump. I would prefer a new one specific to the L6 if I can get it. Otherwise a good used one would work. I will consider the one for the Z-series engines if I have to go that route. Advertiser Matthew Abate Date 07/28/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240z

@Captain Obvious - Did you ever figure out your whole system? I am starting to think about this as well and wanted to follow up on what you chose for the various parts in your AC system. In particular, I was wondering what you chose for your condenser, as I see Z Car Source offers a bolt in one. I'm trying to figure out how it compares to the ones Vitage Air recommends,

Okay, so it’s the COIL that determines if the tach works correctly in the 240z. So why do I keep reading that the electronic ignition screws that up? Whatever! If my tach will work then I’ll keep it. The issue is that I don’t want to have to take it out once it’s in. Hard enough getting it out with the dash out. I can’t imagine pulling one from a complete car.

@siteunseen, you mean this, right? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Okay, I made some progress over the weekend. I pulled the gauges and ducts out of the dashboard last week, so I had access to all of the wiring, which is now out. I also purchased a Volt / Fuel gauge for a 1975-76 280z. These had the same condensed font as the 240z, so it should look like it’s supposed to be there. I’ll have to take note of this when I draw up the new wiring diagram. I also investigated getting a 280z tach, as we discussed previously. Originally I thought I would be able to put a ZX tach instrument into the tach housing because of a video I saw claiming this can be done, but he must have misspoken because the ZX instrument is pretty different and doesn’t just bolt in the way a 280z tach instrument does. I’m thinking about doing this because I went ahead and bought that 280zx distributor with the E12-80 module on it. I think the best course of action, although a little on the spendy side, is to find a good 280z tach and swap the instrument into my housing. This will be another place where I need to change the wiring diagram, particularly because of the 2200 ohm resistor required. So now on to cataloging this dashboard harness.

View Advert ISO 75/76 voltage / fuel gauge I am looking for a working voltage and fuel gauge with the narrow font style matching 1975 and 1976 280Zs. See photo for style reference. Please PM me with a price if you have one. Advertiser Matthew Abate Date 07/24/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1975 Model 280z

There sure are a lot of ifs in that write up. Given the state of disassembly of my car I’m wondering if there’s a way to eliminate some of them in advance. But if I’m understanding @Zed Head correctly I may be able to use my 240z tach with a 280zx distributor, which will same me a pile of cash, for sure. Would be nice to wire this up correctly so it’s nice and clean and doesn’t need to be opened up later.

Okay, cool! Thank you. I passed this info along and we will see where it lands. In other news, I have the dash harness out and have been investigating the condition of the dash and all of the components. One thing I want to do is figure out the tach + ignition combination I want to go with. I am trying to make this electrical system as clean as possible from the get go, so if I can figure this out now it will be better. I am 90% sure I am going to go with an E12-80 ignition on a 280zx distributor. My engine is a ZX block and head, and even though it’s set up like a 1972 with SUs, that ignition feels right. So that means tach problems, since mine is a ‘73 tach. I watch a video on swapping a ZX tach instrument into a 240z tach housing, but upon further investigation I think the guy misspoke and actually used a 280z tach instrument in his mod. I know there can be issues with a 280z tach and an E12-80 ignition, so I want to look into this further. I see a clean 280z tach online that is complete, but I also see a few 280zx instruments that are in my budget. @SteveJ @Patcon @Captain Obvious, Based on your comments on other threads related to this I thought maybe you guys might know if the ZX instrument has the same bolt pattern and dimensions that the 280z and 240z instruments have. If so, this really simplifies my approach.

I know this is dead thread resurrection, but this is the best existing thread to ask this question and don't see the answer anywhere on the forum… Does anyone know if polishing the glass has any effect on the blue tint of the OEM glass? I don't know where that blue tint exists. Is it a film on one or both sides of the glass, or is it internal. Is the glass itself blue, or is there a layer of blue film sandwiched between two or more layers of glass? I am getting ready to try polishing a rear hatch glass on the outside and don't want to find that I have rubbed away the blue tint when I am finished.

My dad wants to test run it before he ships it to me to be installed.

Okay, with that sort of sorted and on the back burner I'm switching gears and have a noob question: How does one test run an L6 engine without a transmission attached? This is impossible since the starter mounts to the transmission and not the block, right? My transmissions are in New Jersey and my engine is in Arizona, so I can't just plug them together. Do I have to source a junk transmission or something so we can start it, or is there a secret trick to mounting the starter I am not aware of?

I reached out to Z Car Depot about it and they pointed me to the OEM seal as well. It’s a Nissan part, so I am wondering if that is the best option. Pissed I have to drop another pile of cash on this. BTW, that seal is cheaper on Courtesy’s website than in their eBay auctions.