wheee!

Finished the throttle linkage. I drilled and tapped a fitting so that the cable could run vertical and be adjustable. This was locked in place with a cable set screw. I then solved the riddle of what to do with the old linkage tabs! I added a return spring helper to make sure the throttle snapped back nice and tight. A quick pedal height adjustment and I now have full range of motion from idle to WOT! [emoji2]

That's how I did it.... https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?do=findComment&comment=482265 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?do=findComment&comment=482551

I know this is not everyone’s idea of what an engine bay should look like, but I am really liking how it’s coming together. For a weekend cruiser/show car, this will achieve my driving goals as well as my aesthetic idea of what a performance restomod should look like.

The Haltech uses the following sensors: Idle Air Controller valve Water temp sensor Intake Air Temp sensor Oil pressure sensor Wideband O2 sensor Crank Angle Sensor MAP sensor I’m pretty sure the control I’m going to have over literally everything else will give me better performance if not a slight amount of unmetered air or blowby.

Tonight I filled the transmission with 80w90 for the first fluid run through the cleaned tranny. I will dump it for the good stuff along with all the other fluids in the first 100kms. Then I went back to the throttle cable and got it figured out. The cable runs under the heat shield about an inch from the headers. Not great but it is a stainless shielded cable. Then it exits the heat shielding into a custom roller wheel to guide it up to the Borla 70mm throttle body. I haven’t cut the cable yet but used a clamp for temporary testing. Spoiler... it works great!!

The FI cars send the air from the valve cover back to before the throttle body so the air coming in gets metered along with the fresh. I agree Zed. I am not disputing how things should work. I keep hearing how the airflow balance from the valve cover is negligible, but obviously it was significant enough to have Nissan engineer it into the throttle body air flow. Maybe that was also part of the environmental concerns at the time to ensure oily gases got recirced. It would be no big issue at all for me to recirc it into the air intake before the throttle body. It would just add an unsightly hose to the top of the engine which I was trying to avoid. I also have a valve cover, if anyone remembers, that has the vent facing the firewall at the back of the driver side of the valve cover. That one is chromed.

The PCV valve will be closed most of the time, only open under high vacuum and then it will draw air from the filtered catch can reservoir. That catch can is then pulling the crankcase fumes out under vacuum. The open vent on the valve cover is an issue under high load I suppose, as the tendency will be for some blow by to occur. Under idle and cruise, I expect a small amount of air to be drawn in under vacuum, but again, even Haltech say this is not an issue worth addressing for most applications. I can always route the valve cover to the air intake if i need to, thus replicating the entire factory setup with a catch can in line to avoid most of the oily residue. I am primarily trying to keep any oil out of the intake runners and valves.

The Crankcase vent will go to the oil catch can, and vent back to the PCV valve. The valve cover will allow fumes to vent out and allow air to come in under varying valve cover pressures. I know it's not perfect, but this combination is what has been run with the haltech systems for a while now with no ill effect. I do realize that the oily residue may start to come out of the breather on top... so eventually I may route this to the catch can too. I will see.

Normally yes, they can change the amount of un-metered air that is entering the engine. However, I am using an Idle Air Controller with the Haltech system which should monitor the MAP (along with the vacuum line straight to the ECU) and control the combustion process more accurately. I could route the hose down and over to the oil catch can that is re-routed back to the PCV valve under the intake manifold, but for now the only line going back to the intake through the catch can is the crankcase vent.

Too late. They’re already powder coated and polished. I’ll find a use for them...

Bolted the intake and exhaust on to the head, getting ready to finish the heat shield and throttle linkage install.

Afterthought: 2.5) Before finish painting the inside of the panels like doors, fenders and hood, I will mount the panels and ensure gaps are correct and make adjustments with welds etc beforehand. This way I can ensure gaps are correct before body blocking and sanding.

I’ve watched a bit of the Eastwood series. Looks do-able.

I agree. If I do a good job of masking joints for a soft blend then I should be good to spray most of the car assembled.

I don’t have a big enough space to paint all of mine unassembled is the main issue. I don’t want to paint on separate days.

So the plans are something like this: 1) complete stripping the doors, new front fender, new cowl. 2) Prime all the stripped parts in 2k epoxy. 3) repair and prep all inside panels and edges for finish paint. The inside of the fenders will be painted in epoxy primer and then in bed liner to protect them. 4) finish paint the inside edges of the door jambs, scoops, hatches and inside hood. Paint the door inside edges and clearcoat all of it. 5) mount all finished panels with hinges and hardware and align for body finishing. 6) block sand and finish all exterior of car. Prep for paint. 7) 4 coats of water based PPG base colour followed by 4 or 5 coats of PPG urethane clear coat. This should allow me to spray the whole car as one assembly to avoid any patterns or colour shift. Thoughts and feedback? Suggestions?

My last email from them a couple of days ago said the first shipment is arriving next week. That stock is all spoken for. The next shipment is due in September and has extra stock.

Cool. I need one of these dashes!

Speaking of ordering.... these look super nice! I might 'need' a set just because... https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/z-rear-lower-control-arm-bolts

Ha! You can get the stickers online pretty easy. I should order some...

There is a different colour symbol for “Senior” driver. I believe it is orange and yellow.

The symbol is for “Beginner” in Japan. It is a decal that attaches to the billet piece. It’s just plain red beneath it. I’m not sure if I will attach it or not. It just made me laugh!

A little more engine bling. Couldn’t resist the beginner badge!