inline6

I've mentioned this a couple of times before, but I think it is worth repeating for anyone who may do bodywork on their car in the future: panels bolted onto the car change shape, so if you do your bodywork before the panel is bolted down, you will be doing it again after. While my car is on the rotisserie, I can't finish the top side of the fenders. The problem is this: I can't bolt the hood on and finalize the position of the fender where it bolts in several locations along the top, inside edge. The front rotisserie mounts interfere with the hood hinges, so I can't bolt them into place. I forgot about this and "went to town" sanding the top side of my left fender, breaking through the primer filler to body filler as you can see here: And here is where I again emphasize that panels move - that "high spot" I was sanding down is centered above these "support pads" that are underneath the fender surface - the spot is just above the two in the right side of the picture: These closed cell rubber pads contact the fender and apply force to the unsupported part of the panel. And, depending on that inner edge of the fender's final location, the force could be higher, or it could be lower, causing a difference in the final shape of the fender. I hope I haven't removed too much of the filler there! But I won't find out until I can put the hood on and adjust final fitment on the inside edge of the fender. This next picture shows the side of the fender a while back when I first bolted the fender on (please ignore the poorly applied guide coat - the can was about empty): Same deal: the rubber weather strip on the inner fender support contacts the fender and applies a force to that unsupported area of the fender. In the picture, you can see the guide coat has been sanded away where that rubber is contacting the inside of the fender panel. It changed the fender shape considerably! At least I have already reworked this area extensively and have the bodywork for the side of the fender behind me. Bodywork - will it ever end?

I've started searching online for the vinyls which could be suitable replacements for the original that was used by Nissan on my car, a 1971 240z. For now, I am specifically looking at the A pillar, and front windshield header trim, and I am looking at the vinyl which was used as a covering on the black metal trim piece, which I call rocker panel threshold trim. I am looking for suitable new vinyl materials which are "close" replacements. So far, I have determined that there are vinyls with "backing" and "non-backed" vinyls. However, searching for suitable replacements is not going well. Anyone have any luck sourcing vinyl that is close or anyone have any advice to help me source these? Pics for reference: A-Pillar trim (has backing): Rocker threshold - Early type with vinyl covering (non-backed) - also interesting that the underside is bare metal - no paint or primer and very susceptible to rust: Rocker threshold - Late type with crinkle paint - note: primer/paint on the under surface:

This past weekend, I finally felt it was appropriate to do some wet sanding. Up to this point, I have done all body work sanding dry, with grits of sandpaper including 80, 120, 180, 240 and 320. Mostly, I have used 80 grit and then 120 grit on body filler. And mostly, I have been using 180 grit for everything else. I have been using 240 grit and 320 grit on fender lips and other areas which require more precision, such as where the forward edge of the body belt line terminates on the front fender. Truthfully, I have likely been too conservative in that regard. I have learned a lot about doing body work, as I knew I would. I just wish I could have learned faster. Anyway, it was exciting to do some wet sanding. For wet sanding, I am going over the whole car with 240 grit first. As I go, I am seeing small areas which will need a bit more primer filler. However, I am seeing the end of bodywork on this car coming... finally. I am trying to make sure my belt line is consistent and sharp. I don't believe I will keep it this sharp when it is to be sprayed with color, but I think it is a lot easier to round off a consistent, sharp line to achieve a consistent finished shape than to attempt to round off a line that is not entirely consistent, if that makes sense. Right side front fender (pics 1,2,3: front to back, back to front, back portion of fender close up of beltline): (pics 4,5, and 6: middle portion of fender close up of beltline, front portion of fender close up of beltline, close up of termination of beltline At the termination point above the wheel well opening, the belt line dips downward a touch. That should be easy to fix (to be made straight instead of dipping down) by wet sanding the area that still has guide coat on it. I just need to be careful there.

Dang. Bought a new shift knob a while back (has a slight imperfection, but I spent a lot for it - so no interest in spending a lot for another). Keep hoping I can find someone with NOS Jute. Not likely, though.

As you point out, the factory shop manual says not to remove the bridge bolts. See a thread I started in the brakes section for a pic of the crud I found in my caliper when I took it apart. O-rings to seal the bridge connection were not available as replacement parts from Nissan that I can tell. Some aftermarket caliper rebuild kits do include them. Some do not. If you don't take them apart after this many years, you are taking chances. In addition to the rust and crud inside the passageways, you are relying on 50 year old o-rings to hold their seal. A leaky caliper makes for a very bad mess - eating paint wherever brake fluid gets. I messed up a new Panasport wheel years ago because of a bridge seal that failed. NOS parts are always cool. But, I don't need them because I had my caliper to strut hard lines re-plated. They need a bit of tweaking which I will do when I install them. I sent the platers a brake master cylinder to brake compensator hard line that was like your NOS lines, with that green coating on it. It came back essentially the same. So, whatever that coating is, it won't accept zinc. Do you have any other NOS items that you won't be using?

So, my latest learning from doing the bodywork on this car... This is a pretty important lesson to learn with regard to filler work. Here is how my passenger door looked in bare metal: The door wasn't sand blasted. Don't do that, by the way, of course. The paint was stripped off with a 36 grit disc on an air sander. Followed by 80 grit on a DA. Next pic shows body filler which was applied on top of epoxy primer. An obvious issue is that I have over sanded the filler and broken through the epoxy primer to bare metal. The instant you break through to bare metal, unless it is a high spot which will be pretty obvious, stop sanding. But, what I really want to point out is with a large panel, such as this passenger door, you can't assume it is flat enough to just skim coat with filler, sand, and spray a couple of high build primer coats on it and call it done. Note the bottom half of the door and that oval spot of body filler: After more filler applied and more sanding... note the oval spot is still there: In this pic, I have applied high build primer filler... and note the oval spot on the lower half of the door... this time with white body filler added. Are you starting to get a sense of the repetition here? right Almost a year ago, the bodywork on this door still wasn't right. So, here is what I have learned. Don't over sand. Other than possibly being a good workout, it wastes time and materials. Critically, for large panels, use a straight edge, or look at the reflection with a coat of wax and silicone remover on the panel, and check for any concaveness across the span of the door. It is exceedingly difficult to address the panel being ever so slightly concave after you have sprayed primer filler. You need to check it while it is bare metal, and again while it is in body filler stage. Get the panel flat while in the body filler stage. Do not move on to primer filler until the panel is flat. Use guide coat, and wax and silicone remover and check progress. Primer filler is not going to fill a concave panel. That is another thing I was doing that was wrong. A picture from today - note the white filler in the same location as the oval low spot in the pics above, and which can be seen in the video above also: I have learned a lot, but have done it the hard way. And it has cost hundreds of hours and hundreds of dollars in materials. The reflection looked really good prior to application of primer filler today, so I think this door is super close to done, at long last. While waiting for filler to dry, I also assembled my brake calipers today. The original hardware was re-plated, insides of pistons sand blasted zinc primed and painted, caliper halves sand blasted, zinc primed and painted with Eastwood cast iron look paint:

Ok, I will go with 38 ft-lbs.

Regarding correct side, I learned the hard way one time. So, always remember, bleed screw location is at top. The calipers were painted with zinc primer, and then https://www.eastwood.com/ew-spray-gray-detail-paint-aerosol-12-oz.html. To me, it looks close to the original finish color of most calipers that I have seen. I like the finish. On this member's page, there are pics of a new old stock caliper. "Zinc rich" primer: Waiting for final torque of bridge bolts:

What are the chances that those lines are just marks from where the overriders "hit" the bumper?

I am re-assembling my caliper parts after bead blasting, painting, getting hardware plated, etc. Looking at the factory shop manual, it says to not take them apart... to replace them as a unit. And it doesn't provide a torque spec for the "bridge bolts". If you don't take them apart, you won't get them clean. And that won't be good, because there is garbage and rust in the passageways after this many years: Bolts are M10 X 1.25 I believe. So, what is a range for torque values? Also, I am curious as to how to decipher these markings:

Is that in all locations, or does it vary? Like in the hatch area - same thickness as floors?

Happened upon a picture of the tube in the tank with no screen) in this live auction on Bring a Trailer - pic #315: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-86/

My tank did not have any kind of screen or sock at the pipe (inside the tank). When I bought my original 240z in 1992, the previous owner told me to "change the filter often". I was 22 - didn't know much. So, what I described above was happening. Car would drive fine, especially if the tank was full. Then, when the gas level would go down, the debris would find its way to the supply pipe opening. The car would empty the SU fuel bowls and come to a stop. The first few times, I found that, after a few hours, it would start up again and run fine. One of the subsequent times it did it, I had my tools. I disconnect the hose at the fuel filter inlet, stuck my head in the engine carpartment and blew back through the pipe as best I could. Got gas in my mouth in the process. 😖 But, it started when the hose was reconnected. I dropped the tank, and used an Eastwood kit to acid wash and seal it after that. All kinds of rust flakes in that tank when I took it out. If you have an obstruction, when it does it again, you could check to see if the fuel bowls are empty. With a rebuilt pump, running empty in the bowls intermittently would point me in the direction of an obstruction in the tank. It may just be a few chunks - not necessarily the tank needing to be replaced.

Sediment in the tank, if present, can plug the fuel supply pipe in the tank. Check your filter (you may want to run clear ones) to see if bits of dark matter are collecting there. If it stalls, and has you stranded... and you can undo the supply line just below the fuel filter, and blow back through the line into the tank... and then assemble and fire it up and drive away, then you know. Many years ago, I had that issue. Had to drain the tank and get it coated inside to stop rust flakes from clogging the line.

Hi Katz, Is the jute you have a roll of still available from the manufacturer? I'd like to source some. I am able to source this jute from a British car specialty shop (the CUF1/J - Underfelt), named the Roadster Factory, but it is a bit different. It is not as thick and would also have to be dyed brown.

What looks to be the original carpet is in good condition under that animal print thing.

Looks to me like you are progressing nicely, and you're enjoying it. Have the carbs ever been rebuilt? While running, I think you can spray a bit of carb cleaner on the areas that can allow vacuum leaks (idle will drop if there is a leak is what I've heard). Regarding one carb dropping out, you may want to check your fuel float levels if you haven't done so. SU's are sensitive to that.

Before I put the front cover on the engine, wondering if I can get confirmation that this chain guide and tensioner alignment is good. What do you think? More pics: Oil pressure senders aren't available new from Nissan anymore, however, this "Sankei" from Beck Arnley looks like it could be an original one? More progress on both door panels and fenders this weekend as well. Getting panels flat is hard!

Looks very original, unmolested. For example, orig. master cylinder and emissions hardware is there. Date stamped jack, chocks and spare say a lot in that way as well. Front most areas of the floors have received impacts of some sort (both sides). Otherwise, the floors look pretty straight. Obvious repair to left front fender means damage occurred there. Could be slight hidden damage behind, but probably not major. Lots of indicators to me that on the rust "scale" this one is toward the "very little" side. Key questions - does original engine come with it - as that impacts value a lot. I am restoring a 6/71 with a vin in the 35XXX which is a bit higher than this one.

A bunch of pics today. As always, click for a larger version if you like. I like the original style intake/exhaust manifold gaskets like this one. Notice that I have alignment dowels for the intake manifolds. These positively locate its position relative to the ports and facilitate installation. I believe I mentioned before that mild porting would be done to work with the mild cam (not stock, but stock duration). Studs for manifolds shown: there are 7 of one type, 3 of another, and one odd one. I believe they go in locations as follows: 3 for the three holes closest to the 3 and 4 exhaust ports - these secure only the exhaust manifold; 6 (of the 7) for the studs that will hold the thick washers which bridge front intake to exhaust manifold; and then I put the 7th one on the back most hold which is where the rear engine hook (for hoist) goes, and the odd one, I put in the very front where the exhaust manifold secures under the thermostat housing. Instead of the stock exhaust manifold, I am using a Zstory stainless steel header: Bolting new and reconditioned parts on is ridiculously easy compared to bodywork. It is going to be very satisfying work putting this car together after I get the body back from painting.

In addition to working on the doors and front fenders, making progress towards addressing the minor imperfections again today, I had some downtime waiting for 3M platinum finishing glaze (fine filler) to dry. So, I decided to pull the cover off of the engine - Ah ha! That (center pic, first row of pics, holding the manifold to the engine) is where my two intake bolts that were missing went! Unfortunately, they didn't make the trip to the plater. I am thinking there will have to be one more shipment to them for a few parts that I accidently left out. Assembly of the intake manifold. For those that do not know, studs can be installed using two nuts on the end of the stud tightened up against each other. Locked together, they won't spin and the outer one can be acted on with a wrench to wind the stud into position: Four studs in each intake manifold, gaskets and the heat insulator blocks installed. I rarely see people remove the coolant tube from the manifolds during restorations. It was a pain. I destroyed the old tube, and mangled the original fittings. But, the tube is basic, and a replacement is easily sourced. The outer diameter is 10 mm. The fittings at each end are very odd. I remember spending a lot of time searching the internet, trying to get info on them. Eventually, I figured it out. They are "Male Inverted Flair - Tube Nut - M16 Threads x 10mm Tube" The factory ones have a 19 mm size on the hex, but I couldn't find ones like that. The replacements are 16 mm hex. Additionally, what makes a water tight seal at each end of the pipe is an o-ring. Originals were hard as rocks, and crumbled. I was able to source some Viton O-rings that I am confident will work (see third pic in the row of pics below). There is an angled (chamfered) shelf that the o-ring seats against. The nut compresses against the o-ring. The chamfer forces the o-ring to push against the outer diameter of the shaft to create the water tight seal. First pic is 5.9X magnification of the o-ring in place. Second and third pics show the intake assembly. Unfortunately, the rubber fuel tubes got kinked a bit during storage. Will have to see if that resolves itself now that they are installed. I sanded the 3M glaze and applied 3 more coats of high build primer which I will sand tomorrow. Fingers crossed that I can finish the doors and fenders tomorrow.

View Advert Fair price paid for 1971 240z parts I need Here is my wish list of parts I'd like to track down - along with what I value them at, all prices do not include shipping: tool box liners - the foam backed that go inside storage compartments - thinking $60 for both in very good condition 4 pieces rubber trim which are glued to corners of tool door compartments (compartments are in the front of the rear hatch deck/floor area) - thinking $20 for nice ones removed with care not to tear them. speaker bracket, cover and mounting hardware - thinking $45 each original "old" style fuel hose clamps - thinking $20 each seat recline knobs (not cracked) -- item #6 in the picture here: http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/seat-slide/type-1-adjuster-seat/6 - thinking $40 each factory original 14" 175HR14 RADIAL spare tire. Prefer DOT code "221", "231", "241" or "251", but let me know what yours is (check DOT code on tire sidewall) - thinking $200 original carpet padding "jute" (brown horse hair like stuff). This "jute" was originally installed under the front floor carpet mats, under the seats, under the center tunnel diamond textured vinyl trim, and under the carpet in the rear hatch deck/floor. This stuff is fragile, and it would be nice, if you have any that is in good condition, to take some care with removal (it was glued to the tunnel). Depending on the piece out of the set and condition - thinking $30 to $80 per piece battery cover (plastic) related parts for 1971 240z - not sure how much - there are reproductions available yellow wheel chocks with correct date stamps - 1E or 1F - thinking $30-$40 for the pair original scissor jack. There are letters stamped into the base of the jack. I need one that has letters starting with Q (1971), and then be followed by F (June) as the second letter, then followed by any letter S through Z as the third letter ---- or, if there are four letters... then AA through CC as the third and fourth letters. As best I can tell, I need a jack with any of the following letter sequences: QFS, QFT, QFU, QFV, QFW, QFX, QFY, QFZ, QFAA, QFBB, QFCC. - thinking $100 4 original hubcaps for a 6/1971 240z - Any condition considered but the most I can see spending is $2000 for a set original key blank - the type with black paint - still not sure which type I need Garrett 434-227-2333 Marietta, GA 30062 Advertiser inline6 Date 07/09/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z

I talked with a painter about a week ago. His shop is only a few minutes drive from me, surprisingly. Went by the body shop he owns, and I talked with him for about 10 min. I told him that I was doing a "rotisserie restoration" and I had stripped the car to bare metal and was getting close to completing the bodywork. Before I could get another word out, he mentioned bare metal body restorations start at $48k. I said, right, but I will have done all the body work and I am just looking for someone to spray it. I mentioned I was using Glasurit products and that I wanted the paint and clear to be Glasurit also. He said I was looking at $4-6k if I provided the paint/materials. Well, I said I had budget $3-4k, but that I honestly thought that with me providing materials, that was too high. Then we talked a bit about "my bodywork". I let him know that I get it... someone comes in and claims they have done the body work and just want him to spray it - that person may not be capable in the slightest of doing bodywork. It could be all wrong. Wrong in hundreds of ways. And these could show up after it is painted. And then he is worried that I will blame him. I mentioned that I have experience with bodywork, but understood the position I was putting him in. After the 10 minutes, I mentioned I wanted to be respectful of his time. He offered me his cell phone number and said he would need to see the car. So, that was a positive outcome, if we had a shaky start. We arranged a time a couple of days later. He showed up on time and I took him to my shop at the back of my property. While looking the car over, he provided a few comments. He pointed out a couple of areas where the body line down the side of the car was not as sharp as in other places. He said that I had done a really good job, and saw the Glasurit containers and mentioned his approval. I figured now that he had seen the car... oh, and I further explained to him that the only part that was to be sprayed separate from the car was the hatch panel - fenders weren't to come off, doors weren't to come off, etc. And, no color sanding... and no buffing... just spray it with base coat, spray it with clear coat, and I can take it from there... I figured, surely, the price would come down? Eh - no. It seems that $4-6k was the minimum. But... he did say he knew someone that he could refer me to who would be cheaper. So there is that. In the end, I may be able to get that referral and I may not, but I appreciated his time - thanked him many times for stopping by and having a look. So, I continue to work on a few panels to flatten them out to perfection. I've lost count of the number of primer coats I have applied. It seems I still have a lot to learn about sanding a panel. I think (no really this time) I am close to finishing up the bodywork - a couple of months of weekends more is my guess. And as that milestone approaches, I find myself thinking of a few other areas of the car that need attention, like chrome parts. I took a look at my nos rear bumper pieces today. It is a real bummer to see very slight signs of corrosion on them. Looking at the stickers on the boxes, it appears at least one of these pieces dates back to 07. Note the white spots which I think are tiny holes in the chrome leading to the base metal: Also, the bumpers have imperfections like these two high "waves" in the white part of the light shining in the reflection (first pic); center pic shows similar corrosion on the center bar; new bumper bar vs. old bumper bar (third pic): The original bumper was damaged in a light rear end collision. I have straightened it a bit, but I think it needs a bit more work. At this point, given the corrosion showing up on the new one, I think it best to send all the parts of both rear bumpers to be re-plated (along with the front bumper). I think I will have them address minor issues with the new old stock one as well as work on further salvage efforts for the original one.

Looks good! I'll check them out.

It seems like from looking online, I see a lot of hit and miss with chrome plating. Does anyone have a recommendation for a place that does high quality work? I'm looking to get the following re-plated: 1971 Datsun 240: front and rear bumpers and bolts that secure the bumper ends to the center section gas door latch/"lock" ash tray bits (like the grill thing you put cigarettes out on) exterior door handles The bumpers have light taps (high and low spots) and will need copper filling or whatever to get them straight, but they have very little rust since they are from an Arizona car that then sat in a garage for 28 years.