inline6

Not enough body shots for me... Car is in MI. Yeah it was garaged but, the one photo of the rocker shows the rear quarter dog leg that attaches to the rocker is puffed out. Fresh paint??? I'm thinking a fair amount of fresh bondo too. But, just guesses as it is hard to tell from pictures, and there aren't many of them of the exterior here. Garrett

Thanks to both of you for the info. I just played with the timing for a couple of hours. Although seat of the paints is not scientific, there is enough of a difference between 17 BTDC and 32 BTDC to feel a difference. 32 BTDC or as best as I can currently read it, is where the pinging goes away in 4th with full throttle at 30 MPH. At this setting 6000 RPM comes a bit quicker in 1st, 2nd, and most noticeably, 3rd. Also at this setting, when I operate the throttle by hand with the timing light on it, I show something in the neighborhood of 45 degrees of total advance. Seems to be fully advanced around 3000. Also, I am not having any cold start problems. That just seems bizarre to me. I checked TDC with a screwdriver in the number one spark plug hole and the marks on the pully are correct. I have the euro pully with just one groove. The mark furthest left when facing the car from the front is TDC. Each of the other marks (I'm assuming) is 5 degrees. I wonder how many Z car owners are setting their timing by the book and missing out on a couple of HP? Garrett

I read this in an old post: "Much better to set your timing using total advance of 32 Degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance off and plugged @ 2,500 RPM. So, no matter what the initial mechanical advance is setup for, you'll know you've got it right." How is everyone setting their timing? I have a "Euro" distributor with single points D609-52 I think is the number on the side. When I set the timing at 17 BTDC (at 650 RPM as the workshop manual states), it runs fine but not as well as when I set it closer to something like 27 BTDC at the same RPM. Yeah, I know, that's a lot. And when I rev it while checking with a light it definitely is going past 36 degrees BTDC although at that angle, it is hard to read with the flat scale that is on the block. Details: 77 L-28 shortblock - no mods E88 head -not shaved with stock cam, stock Su's with SM needles I run 89 octane gas. Seems like setting it so that it just pings ever so faintly with full throttle in 4th gear from 30 to 40 mph works best for power. Also, how are you reading 32 BTDC on 240's if you just have a pointer on the timing cover and 5 lines on the pulley? That only gives you 25 degrees, right? Garrett

When welding on the exterior surface, try to use a mig welder and just tack weld it one tack at a time. Tack about every inch, then go back and keep tacking in between-- waiting for the panel to cool in between tacks. Don't run any beads. Takes a long time but you won't get panel warp. Also the length you are dealing with here is not long-- so won't be too bad a job. At all other areas, drill holes in the repair panel and then rosette (sp?) weld. Essentially, these are like spot welds. Been there and done that. Sheet metal work is very time intensive. Also the repair panels in the aftermarket don't fit well. Test fit and modify as necessary to get the original contours and wheel well opening curve. Good luck! See my website -- essentially an article right now-- for some of the work I did on mine. Garrett

Sorry. Looks like the spaces were removed. I'll try one more thing. Visualize the below image with the x's replace by spaces. xxxxxxxx-------------- xxxxxxxx{xxxxxxxxOx} xxxxxxxxx----------------------- xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx{xOxxxxxxxxx} xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx--------------- G

I've got two oval Magnaflow mufflers stacked in the back of my 240z. Magnaflow number on them is 11124. They are 2" inlet and 2" outlet. One side is centered and the other is offset. It was a little tricky, but if you use the centered as the inlets and the offset as the outlets, you can stack them so that the outlets are straight up and down coming out of the valence. This offsets the mufflers like this: -------------- { O } ------------------------ { O } ---------------- This fits nicely where the rear quarter panel tucks in at the bottom. I'm sure Magnaflow makes this canister size with smaller inlet's and outlet's. Could be a good option for you. I also had to curve the upper outlet down and out to get the mufflers located so that they were tucked up where they look good-- just a slight S bend though. Garrrett

Actually, I still have a little time. If anyone has a 70-71 dash in VA, please contact me. I am thinking $45-50 bucks (cracks fine). Let me know. Garrett

I know this is a long shot, but I need to know if anyone can help me put my hands on a series 1 dash in VA tomorrow. I am in the Charlottesville area. Condition doesn't matter because I am going to get it restored. If you have a Z friend near here, please shoot them an email and see if they can help me out. My car was made in 12/70. gman@firstva.com day phn 434-817-1000 Garrett

Thanks for the clip! About 10 years ago, I did the same thing as your friend with my Datsun 510. I ran a 2 liter L-20B motor with a header and 2 1/2" exhaust all the way back with a single turbo muffler. My girlfriend and I both used ear plugs for long trips, but most of the time I drove without them. I definitely lost some hearing because of this. My ears ring all of the time- though it has gotten less noticeable over the years. I encourage you to tell your friend about this. Losing hearing is not fun. G

I built a custom dual exhaust. I have a header from Clifford InLine 6 Performance (I think it is the same as the old Nissan Comp header from the 70's) 3 into 2 configuration. Dual 2" pipes with two 4" round Magnaflow stainless mufflers in the drive shaft tunnel, and 2 small oval Magnaflow mufflers in the back (stacked), finished with dual stainless 2 1/4" tips. It looks really nice, and is actually not loud. The problem is it doesn't sound very good. It flows very good though. Previously I had the same header, with dual 1 3/4" pipes and nothing in the tunnel with 2 small and 2 large glasspacks (1 for each pipe) in the back, finished with Ansa type exhaust tips. This used to sound very good, but over the years, it seemed to get louder, to the point where it was too loud. It was also quite restrictive as evidence by an inability to hit 6000 RPM in 4th gear with this exhaust vs. the one I mentioned above. Anyway, I'm very interested to hear what others have. Also, if any of you can make a sound file of what you have for us to listen to, that would be awesome! Garrett

Hey, Any bites yet? Would you ship it truck freight?

Hey! I'm in Charlottesville! and I've got a Z friend close by to Waynesboro. Thanks for the post. I think between the two of us, well find a way to do something with the car. Garrett