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About Dickf

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    Carnation, Washington

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  1. Nice photos. I enjoy seeing what other's engine compartments look like. I've got a couple of questions about the photos then I'll discuss the carburetors. First, what kind of fuel line/connectors do you have and where did you get them? I really like that look and want to do something similar. Also, where did you get the bolt covers. They look really nice. I have a 73 with the original engine although it has been re-built. These cars originally ran very lean because of the implementation of environmental regulations. Thus a previous owner changed to Weber DGV carbs. Since I took possession of the car a couple of years ago it has never really run well; but I wasn't driving it that much and had other priorities so I didn't try to address the issue. This fall I started working on the car and knew that the carburetion was one of those items which I would have to address. I went through some of the soul searching which you have described - should I work with the Webers or change to SUs. After a lot of research and reading opinions on line, I decided to stay with what I have and try to make it better. Although they aren't particularly liked by the Z community, the Webers seem to be quite popular with other communities and, of course, they have a rich racing heritage. Anyhow, my car was getting poor gas mileage, didn't start particularly well, and didn't accelerate smoothly. I decided that I would start by looking at re-jetting the carbs. In doing some research I have determined that (I think anyway) the jetting is way off. Way too rich. I bought some jets and changed them out, but still didn't get the response that I was looking for. The car started better and the gas mileage was better; but the smoothness still was not there. Thus, I have just recently decided to rebuild the carbs. Probably should have done that the first thing, but I'm cheap. Anyhow, as of last evening, I have one carburetor re-built and I'm starting on the second one. The beauty of the Weber carbs is that they are really quite simple and very adjustable. The latter, of course, is a blessing and a curse. After reading and researching though, I am confident that I can make them work. Don't get me wrong, I know that it won't be an easy or quick process, but for me it is a learning experience. From my reading it appears that you need to tune these carburetors in the progression order as everything builds on the prior progressions. That is: Primary Idle (Progression) Jets, Primary Main jets, Secondary Idle (Progression) Jets, and then Secondary Main Jets. The jury is still out, and I may yet change to the SUs or to Fuel Injection sometime down the line, but for now I'm learning a lot about this car and enjoying the challenge. Good luck with your project. d***
  2. Took the carbs apart again over the weekend and the floats are at spec.
  3. I had the opportunity yesterday to do some more "research". I swapped the idle jets (primaries for the secondaries). The primaries had been 55 and the secondaries 50. I'm now running the 50s in the primaries and the 55s in the secondaries. It's better, but still very rich. Presently the "best lean idle" is at 950 RPM with the Mixture Screws at less than one turn and the Idle Speed Screws at 0 (no turns). I'm in the process of ordering more jets.
  4. I have a synchronometer with a DGV adaptor and I have sunched the carbs. Of course, as I start making changes I will have to be re-doing all of that. Interesting comparison between your jetting setup and mine. You're running significantly smaller jets than I am. I'm running rich whereas you are running lean wich would be expected. Also, your jetting is across the board smaller than these carbs "as delivered" and my jetting is across the board larger. How did you get to this point with your jetting? What kind of gas mileage are you getting?
  5. Senkyoshi: Plugs are black. Gas mileage is poor. Timing is good. I know that the Mixture is rich. Present jetting: Mains: 132/145 Idle: 55/60 Air Correc.: 160/170 My understanding is that the Carbs would have been delivered with the following jetting: Mains: 140/135 Idle: 55/50 Air Correc.: 165/160 As you will note, with the carburetors as delivered, the secondary jets are always smaller than the primary jets; whereas the jetting on my car is just the opposite. What jetting are you running? What process have you gone through to get yours running well. I haven't started changing anything, yet. I'm trying to get the information in order before I tear into it. I've read the Weber Haynes Manual and Pat Braden's Weber Book; and I've searched the internet looking for information. I've also surveyed the existing conditions of the carburetors and I've checked the engine with a Colortune. Tentatively my process will be to work from the primary idle circuits through the progression circuits to the main circuits. Any guidance will be appreciated. d***
  6. I have dual Weber DGV carbs on a 73 240Z with a stock engine other than a slightly modified cam. I beleive that someone has done some re-jetting of these carbs in the past because they do not appear to have the stock jets. Since the car does not run particulary well I am in the process of trying to re-jet these, and was wondering what jetting others are using with these carbs to help me establish a baseline as to where I may need to go. I realize that I won't be able to solve all of my problems by just slapping in whichever jets others are using, but I hope to save myself some time in the test and evaluation process by obtaining some baseline information. Thanks.
  7. L28 Engine w/N42 Head. Was $300.00. Now $250.00. Used engine which was installed and used while my original engine was re-built. Ran good. Approximately 70K miles. (No carburetor, manifolds, starter or alternator.)
  8. Used engine which was installed and used while my original engine was re-built. Ran good. Approximately 70K miles. (No carburetor, manifolds, starter or alternator.) $300.00/Offer.:classic:
  9. Yes, the engine is still available. If you are interested give me a call. Daytime: 425-827-2100. Evening: 425-868-7029.
  10. No, I'm really not interested in shipping the engine. Sorry.
  11. L28 Engine with N42 Head. $300.00/Offer. No carburetor, manifolds, starter or alternator. Used engine which was installed and used while my original engine was re-built. Ran good. Approximately 70K. Located on an engine stand in my garage in Sammamish, Washington.
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